Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Here is the Simple, the most basic 4x8ft square to go on a Harbor Freight utility trailer. It has two alternative profiles depending on whether you want just a bit of 'teardrop-i-ness' or none at all:



Here are the plans: The Simple. I've tried to eliminate as much cost/material as possible - the hatch props are pieces of wood, but work semi-automatically, and the windows are just polycarb sheet with no frames.

Andrew

Good work Andrew. I like your version a lot better than mine. You definitely have an artists eye.

I am not sure whether I like the squared off back end or the slop backed one better. Thanks for your efforts!

OK, you now have three alternatives to chose from:



The Rimple (Rounded Simple, geddit?) is the third one and is on the bottom of the Simple page.

I understand that many people think a flat-panel body will be easier to build than a curved one, but I suspect it isn't so - the joints at the angles of a 'square' are relatively complex. So actually I think the Rimple would be the easiest to build.

Andrew

I suppose the e-simple is next?

Mike...

P.S. e? elliptical of course...

I am thinking that the hardest part to build is the galley lid. It seems like the rounded one would be the hardest to get right. What are your thoughts on that?

Man, you just keep cranking out the hits!!!

Another question...will 1/4 inch plywood bend to the 24 inch radius without breaking? Also, how does one get the seams to seal on the top where the 2 pieces of plywood meet?

Hey Andrew, how about the Srimple? Simple and rounded together!

RC wrote:Another question...will 1/4 inch plywood bend to the 24 inch radius without breaking? Also, how does one get the seams to seal on the top where the 2 pieces of plywood meet?

Nope, which is why the Rimple uses 1/8" thickness ply for the front, top and hatch.

The seam in the front/top is about 12" from one end, so it falls in a flat section. A butt strap joint* can be used, or make the seam fall on a rib and make that rib double-width.

I've put a cross-section of a butt strap joint here.

Andrew

RC wrote:Another question...will 1/4 inch plywood bend to the 24 inch radius without breaking? Also, how does one get the seams to seal on the top where the 2 pieces of plywood meet?

Nope, which is why the Rimple uses 1/8" thickness ply for the front, top and hatch.

The seam in the front/top is about 12" from one end, so it falls in a flat section. A butt strap joint* can be used, or make the seam fall on a rib and make that rib double-width.

I've put a cross-section of a butt strap joint here.

Andrew

<<Nope, which is why the Rimple uses 1/8" thickness ply for the front, top and hatch. >>

Darn, I should have caught that when I was loking over your plans. Thanks...

I guess I should use a double width rib, as I would imagine that a butt strap joint would be hard to do on 1/8 inch material. Probably doable on 1/4 inch material though.

Also Andrew, what version of TurboCad are you using? The version I am running is 4.1, and it is unable to open your files. It shows an appropriate preview, but has a header error that prevents it from opening up.

The Rimple looks alot like a very simple Benroy. What is the difference?
DEE

Dee Bee wrote:The Rimple looks alot like a very simple Benroy. What is the difference?

Dee,

Not much. The rear radius is reduced so that the hatch hinge is in the flat roof, not on the start of the curve. So there's no problem in making an angled joint between the bulkhead and the roof. And the door is simpler.

Andrew

Andrew,
When I do finally build my enclosure, should I cut the flooring down on the sides so when the side pieces are attached, it makes the thing 4 feet wide, thereby letting the top sit down better for weather-tightness. Like in the picure here, looking from the front (or rear).

Yes, absolutely. I had drawn this with some framing under the floor so that the floor and side can be joined securely:



Andrew