Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:00 pm**

Well, it's finally off of the drawing board and the glue-up of the 10 circular ribs has begun. Next is the 12 longitudinal members that have to be lamnated and glued to the ribs. I'm not sure what I've gotten myself into, since there is nothing on this build that is square, straight or ridgid. I have a lot of praise for those who built the full-sized thing and then expected it to fly. At least I don't have to worry about that. The exterior will be 1/8 in plywood and it should have a comfortable 6 ft bed for at least one person......me. It's amazing, that I have found when you live alone, all of your old objectional traits seem to have dissapeared. Just an observation. I hope to have the "Limp-Blimp" (or the "Wood Tear") at Lake Shasta in the spring. This 9 footer will be the biggest thing I have ever built. I hope it weights less than 250 lbs.

Roly ~~

Posted: **Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:51 pm**

This sounds awesome. Looking fwd to pics.

Posted: **Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:10 am**

Hi Roly,

If I may be so bold, here is a link to your thread in the "Off Topic"
section that you started this with so that your build history is all
in one place for us:

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=54067

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Posted: **Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:12 am**

Hi again Roly,

Here is a post I made in the Off Topic section's thread on this
earlier tonight:

Hi again Roly,

I just wanted to let you know that others have done your idea before so
you are in good company and should have no problem accomplishing yours.

I just got a new book today, "Trailerama" by Phil Noyes, [ISBN 978-1-4236-2142-3],
[He did the 'Teardrops and Tiny Trailers' book a few years ago] that's full
of pics of old trailers from brochures and old snapshots and also some from trailer
ephemera items too. It covers the time span of from the beginnnings in the
1920s to @ the 1950s.

On page 106 of that is a full page pic of "The Gospel Ark" from 1937, which
is a torpedo/dirigible shaped small-medium sized standy, most likely a one-off
home build, but done with great finesse. I thought it could be a source of
inspiration/encouragement to you for your new build.

A few of it's features are:
-The body is made of 10-12 flat segments/strips joined to make a cylinder of
sorts on its side, with matching/corresponding hemispherical end caps.
-The very front has a round window, about a 2ft diameter, with a center pivot for
the operating glass, which is centered on the front of the body with about 10-12
flat trapezoidal panels radiating out from around it over the curved structural
bows used to define the front 'hemispherical' body section shape. These match
into/join the flat long rectangular side segments of the center cylinder of the
body. I'd assume the rear is done in the same manner.
-The entry door is in two sections, hinged across its width about 3/5ths of the
way down from the top. The top part is hinged vertically to the trailer body along
the lower 3/4ths of that, with the top 1/4or so of the door angled forward [as it appears
when open] the correct angle so that allows it to close in the same plane that the side
segment of the body is in at that location. The bottom part of the door hangs straight
down from the horizontal hinge in it when the door is open, but it is pulled in to close
against that side segment of the horizontal part of the side body when the door is
closed.
-The ends have flat metal trim where each panel meets and where the end hemispheres
join the cylindrical body.
-It has a couple round portholes as side windows and also a round window in the door.
-The suspension is really novel though. The wheel is under the incurving side of the
body and is mounted inboard (!) of the leaf springs ! In other words - the chassis cross
members that the leaf springs are mounted to extend out past the the tires so that
the leaf springs are outside of the wheels-tires and the axle ends/spindles go through
the wheel centers and have the leaf springs undermounted on them there. That must've
made changing a tire very interesting to say the least.

I just thought you might find it interesting. I think it'd be worth locating the book
at a book store or library to have a looksie.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:03 am**

Hey Roly!

Here is some inspiration for your build... well ok maybe not, but I wanted to share it anyway. A view from inside!

Click here for a view from above!

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:00 am**

mezmo wrote:Hi again Roly,

Here is a post I made in the Off Topic section's thread on this
earlier tonight:

Hi again Roly,

I just wanted to let you know that others have done your idea before so
you are in good company and should have no problem accomplishing yours.

I just got a new book today, "Trailerama" by Phil Noyes, [ISBN 978-1-4236-2142-3],
[He did the 'Teardrops and Tiny Trailers' book a few years ago] that's full
of pics of old trailers from brochures and old snapshots and also some from trailer
ephemera items too. It covers the time span of from the beginnnings in the
1920s to @ the 1950s.

On page 106 of that is a full page pic of "The Gospel Ark" from 1937, which
is a torpedo/dirigible shaped small-medium sized standy, most likely a one-off
home build, but done with great finesse. I thought it could be a source of
inspiration/encouragement to you for your new build.

A few of it's features are:
-The body is made of 10-12 flat segments/strips joined to make a cylinder of
sorts on its side, with matching/corresponding hemispherical end caps.
-The very front has a round window, about a 2ft diameter, with a center pivot for
the operating glass, which is centered on the front of the body with about 10-12
flat trapezoidal panels radiating out from around it over the curved structural
bows used to define the front 'hemispherical' body section shape. These match
into/join the flat long rectangular side segments of the center cylinder of the
body. I'd assume the rear is done in the same manner.
-The entry door is in two sections, hinged across its width about 3/5ths of the
way down from the top. The top part is hinged vertically to the trailer body along
the lower 3/4ths of that, with the top 1/4or so of the door angled forward [as it appears
when open] the correct angle so that allows it to close in the same plane that the side
segment of the body is in at that location. The bottom part of the door hangs straight
down from the horizontal hinge in it when the door is open, but it is pulled in to close
against that side segment of the horizontal part of the side body when the door is
closed.
-The ends have flat metal trim where each panel meets and where the end hemispheres
join the cylindrical body.
-It has a couple round portholes as side windows and also a round window in the door.
-The suspension is really novel though. The wheel is under the incurving side of the
body and is mounted inboard (!) of the leaf springs ! In other words - the chassis cross
members that the leaf springs are mounted to extend out past the the tires so that
the leaf springs are outside of the wheels-tires and the axle ends/spindles go through
the wheel centers and have the leaf springs undermounted on them there. That must've
made changing a tire very interesting to say the least.

I just thought you might find it interesting. I think it'd be worth locating the book
at a book store or library to have a looksie.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

http://hdl.huntington.org/cdm/singleite ... 2897/rec/2

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:41 am**

Roly, another way to hinge a shape like this is to move the hinge pivot forward of the joint. In the example below, shown in side view, an external bar (coloured green) connects a part-blimp galley hatch to the hinge pivots which are 6" forward of the joint line - a laminated wooden 'bar' with some nice contrasting layers would look good and be strong enough.

Because the pivot is well forward of the joint, the 'worst' part of the hatch is right at the top, which first moves forwards and upwards at an angle of about 45 degrees, so as long as the internals are laid out to suit this (for example, only the outer shell comes right up to the joint line and the inner bulkhead is set a further inch or so back), the hatch and the body won't hit each other.

You could, of course, recess the bar into the body so it lies flush when closed, but that is getting kinda tricky.

: roly-blimp.JPG (27.8 KiB) Viewed 3854 times

Incidentally, the side door on Dan's looomium Roswell opens vertically (gull-wing style) using a C-shaped hinge just like the ones that Del used horizontally on his yellow Roswell and they occupty a lot of internal space when the door is closed - plus Dan confirmed that he had to add padding to them because he eventually hit his head on them. Those internal hinges make for a nice appearance when closed, but they are a right pain the rest of the time.

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:27 am**

Hi Roly,

A name suggestion just popped into my head, so I thought I'd
pass it along for your consideration.

Change one letter in "Good-Year" and it morphs into the "Good-Tear",
or add your favorite material to it as well and it comes up, the "Good-Wood-Tear"

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:49 am**

Wood Zeppelin

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:59 am**

Roly,

Another name possibility, or subtitle after "Good Tear":

This actual phrase per Google translate:
[Note: a rigid framed airship is a dirigible.]

My Wooden Sleeping Dirigible = Min Trä Sovande Styrbar
in Swedish

It'd show as:

Good Tear : Min Trä Sovande Styrbar

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Posted: **Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:00 pm**

Remember a tear, has to be better than a blow-up toy!!!

Posted: **Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:47 pm**

rather than long c shaped hinge arms that impinge on the useful area inside, take a look at the type of trunk lid hinges on a car like the ford focus sedan or vw jetta, they sit off to the sides take no internal space and allow the lid to hinge off axis to a normal hinge as well as keep it from hitting the rear window. I owned a Focus so I found the design very practical, I gave that car away and my current Focus is a hatchback so it has normal hinges. http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2009/0 ... ns-please/ the picture explains it better than I can

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:49 am**

Well thanks for all of the design and building tips, but I am placing the blimp design on the back burner for a while, since it will take much longer than planned. However, I'm sketching a 54 inch long, 3 ft high, teardrop-shaped sleeping and cooking unit, that will be fastened to a reciever-mounted, aluminum hitch-mounted cargo platform that will carry 350 lbs, yep, another levitator, no problem. This one will have one door on the side, a 2 ft tip-out for a 6 1/2 ft bed on the front end of the "trailer", which will be mounted crossways, behind the bumper of the Cruze.

Of course it'll have a "full galley" (which will be limited to a cooking counter-top, a Coleman stove and that's all). 1/8th inch painted plywood walls and roof, should keep the total weight below 200 lbs. 70 mph in any lane I choose, sounds nice on the 800 mile trek to Shasta 20. This build will be quicker than all of the bandsawing of bows and lengthy ribs and the laminating that will be required on the "Limp Blimp". $400 should cover all expenses, lets see, 1x12 pine, 1/8" lauan ply, 3 piano hinges, 3/8 ply floor, house paint, door lock, glue, screws and roof hatch. (no license, or trailer, no turn, tail, brake or back-up lights, plus no special back-up training required, since it goes where ever the car's back bumper goes and I can see over the top of in with the rear-view mirror).

Roly ~~

Posted: **Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:36 pm**

Cant wait to see this one! Subscribed!

Posted: **Sat Mar 16, 2013 12:46 am**

Hi Roly,

I came across this 'Art' piece that may be of help if/when
you get back to this:

The construction pics are @ 3/5ths down on the page:

http://twilightcamp.net/patriotpill.html

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

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