Paramotor Flying Camper Build!!!

[Rodman]

So I have been lurking here for quite sometime now. I kept trying to make my mind up do I want to buy a small camper or build one.

I have decided to build one. I am going with Harbor Freight 4x8 as I have Hyundai accent to pull it. I have a couple question before I start this build. I am gathering all the things I am going to need.

1. what size plywood should I use if I am going to cover the exterior with alumni sheeting? The inside I am going use lauan and put 1x4 strips to use foam insulation sheets to insulate the walls.

2. They door! What size door ? Was thinking using this one. But I am not sure if its proper size for what plywood. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01347BSAQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_11&smid=A2XNAWTFQID8GX

3. Do you think I need vent with a fan or no fan? What is the pro and cons?

4. Where can I find some paper plans for the wall cut out?

Thanks in advance

Rodman

UFO PARAMOTORS

http://www.ufoparamotors.com

[KCStudly]

Welcome to the forum. If you are building a toy hauler/camper for your paramotor(s) you should check out Barak's build.

I think he could have built lighter, especially in the floor structure, but the layout seemed to work and might give you some ideas.

You need ventilation. Period. Getting hot air, that rises, out is best done at the roof, or at least high up on the walls. Getting fresh cooler air in can be done via side door windows, but it seems to me that many people are adding passive vents somewhere low in the cabin; some even like having small vents or windows near their pillows. The idea is to keep CO2 from collecting low. I can't recall at the moment, but there was some other discussion about how some gases don't separate out that easily. Either way, I like the idea of being able to have a small constant exchange of fresh air without necessarily running the larger roof fan (some people have trouble slowing their roof fans down enough under certain conditions).

I will be using a MaxxAir shrouded roof fan (so it can be open and/or run in the rain... but it is large and not very thrifty); tilt out awning windows in the side doors; and a 120mm case fan in a chase drawing cool air from under the floor blowing into the cabin near my feet. This will double as a filtered passive vent. I am hoping that the 120mm fan will also be sufficient to act as a positive pressure feature to help keep silt/dust out of the cabin and galley while traveling on forest service roads (in the event that my seals are less than perfect).

There are many documented cases of people having trouble with a lack of ventilation: Airtight Teardrops can KILL YOU.

Re: side door size, I'm on the large size and don't bend as well as I used to, so I prefer nice large side doors (you'll want 2). I would talk to the seller and ask what thickness the trim rings will accommodate. They may be able to provide the ones that will suit your planned wall thickness. Other people just screw thru the outer door flange and find some other way to trim the inside, but that puts more potential leak points in the shell.

I'm not skinning with aluminum, but the consensus seems to be that 1/8 inch ply is more than adequate when used under alum, and it conforms very well to rounded profiles. (I read a lot here on the forums, so I try to share that knowledge when I can, even if it isn't firsthand.)

There are profiles available in the Design Resources pull down menu at the top of the page. Grant Whipp used to offer paper templates for certain classic profiles, but he is retired now. IIRC, some people have been scammed by e-bay sellers of paper plans, some of which were pirated from other sources, so be careful there.

There is a build manual that includes some good building practices, Steve Fredrick's method, but I don't think it provides specific profile measurements, more like just guidelines that you can apply to any build.

What shape profile are you hoping to use? The classic teardrops are good looking, but a Benroy (or "Benroyesque", as I like to call mine) offers more interior volume and allows the galley counter to come closer to the rear edge of the floor without conflicting with the hatch ribs, meaning that the counter is less of a reach and the floor edge is less of a shin knocker.

[Rodman]

Thanks KC,

I have another question. So I bought the Folding trailer from Harbor Freight. Can I change the hubs to a 5 lug instead of using wheel adapters?

[wagondude]

The only other way to get five-lug hubs on that trailer is to replace the axle. At that point, you would have been better off just having a trailer custom built.

[Rodman]

Started building my paramotor teardrop camper. I am currently waiting on parts to arrive.