5 x 8 benroy

[Simple_Abound]

I just noticed that you used the classic generic benroy profile with a hard break in the rear curve. Did that cause any issues for you when you skinned the hatch and/or would you do it differently if you were to do it over again?
My plan as of now is a modified benroy profile with a 20" radius there to keep it a continuous curve/piece.

Looking amazing by the way. I really like how you covered up the electrical box area and still allowed airflow and visibility of the charge controller.

I like the benroy profile, that's why I kept the hard break. I think it also allows for the galley countertop to sit out further. After I had finished I realized I could have moved the whole galley back, allowing for a couple more inches of cabin length. It really wasn't that difficult to cover it. I layed the flat piece first and left the curved piece a little long and sanded it flat after the pl3 dried. I actually made a mistake when I first cut out my profile in the back, that's why my hatch extends past the frame.
I'm an electrician by trade. There's reasons why you need airflow, proper fusing and disconnects.

[Simple_Abound]

Before the first trip I was able to make the fridge pull out bigger and add a lock. I cut an old door hinge and used an old pin I had. The first trip went well with no issues. There was a couple things I discovered I would like. One was a paper towel holder and some pull out drawers. The paper towel holder is also from material I had laying around. I built one pull out countertop, it's not finished yet. I also finished the led tape light over the backsplash. I will add more as it gets used and discover when I need.

[Simple_Abound]

The galley is almost finished. It's pretty basic but functional. I intentionally left one drawer face off because I get accused of never finishing anything. I also don't have any actual drawers to set stuff in, they would only accumulate stuff I don't need.

[Simple_Abound]

Took a trip to Temperance River State Park. Second trip with the teardrop, I wouldn't change a thing on the teardrop. The temperature overnight was only 40, no electricity, we were plenty warm. I think we may be able to manage 20 degrees without some sort of heat. I recently purchased a portable diesel heater that I'm going to do a test run when it gets cold before I start cutting holes. The last picture is of Lake Superior looking out the window.

[Graniterich]

Took a trip to Temperance River State Park. Second trip with the teardrop, I wouldn't change a thing on the teardrop. The temperature overnight was only 40, no electricity, we were plenty warm. I think we may be able to manage 20 degrees without some sort of heat. I recently purchased a portable diesel heater that I'm going to do a test run when it gets cold before I start cutting holes. The last picture is of Lake Superior looking out the window.

Diesel heaters are amazing, 2k is more than enough. Look at bureck thermostat for more functionality.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Oscar Herrera]

I've discovered that 3/4" foam board insulation is unobtainable in my area, unless I want to order 60 sheets. I have some leftover 1 1/2 from a previous build that I'm going to try to cut to size. It's going to be a mess but I don't like the idea of using polystyrene that's used for packaging.

A bit late to the discussion, but I have discovered 1/4 inch XPS foam is available as a fanfold. Stack 3 folds and you are set. Look for "FOAMULAR 1/4 in. x 4 ft. x 50 ft. R-1 Fanfold Rigid Foam Board"
In my area I can get 200 square feet for $56 This is the equivalent of 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4 inch foam.
The 1/4 inch format opens various possibilities
a- cut only one of the folds to rout wiring
b- 3 1/4 inch sheets will bend easier than the rigid 3/4 inch equivalent
c- sneak aluminum foil between the folds for better thermal performance. The shiny side of aluminum foil reflects heat due to its low emissivity; there are also low emissivity coatings that could accomplish the same thing

Cheers,
Oscar