The 2+2 High Modified

[KCStudly]

My first thought was to scuff it and cover it with canvas (see the "Foamie" section). The canvas would reinforce the ply against further checking (hopefully) and would give a nice base to cover again with chosen paint color. Cheaper and easier than glass and epoxy.

Exterior latex or the latest thing we've been looking at (but haven't heard much for results) is Glidden Grabber to "paint" (glue) the canvas down with. the Glidden Grabber also sounds promising for a high build filler to tone down the texture of the canvas on the outer sealing coat. Not sure if it is compatible with your existing paint, but there are plenty of options.

[Fishingtomatoseed]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I think the easiest and best thing to do would be to cover it with aluminium. I would not strip the paint.

Dan

Dan this is what I was thinking of doing. People have talked about a couple of places around the Dallas area that sell aluminum wide enough for no seams. I may start looking into it.

My first thought was to scuff it and cover it with canvas (see the "Foamie" section). The canvas would reinforce the ply against further checking (hopefully) and woul give a nice base to cover again with chosen paint color. Cheaper and easier than glass and epoxy.

Exterior latex or the latest thing we've been looking at (but haven't heard much for results) is Glidden Grabber to "paint" (glue) the canvas down with. the Glidden Grabber also sounds promising for a high build filler to tone down the texture of the canvas on the outer sealing coat. Not sure if it is compatible with your existing paint, but there are plenty of options.

Kc

I hadn't thought about this. So finding a glue that will adhere to the existing paint and creating a " membrane " around the wood. Does the canvas and paint feel soft or rubbery when done?

Thanks for the replies. 100 ideas is better than 1.

[KCStudly]

Well, er ... I haven't actually tried it yet. My build is still in progress. Been studying up a lot, though.

My thought is that it pretty much takes on the feel of the paint that you use because the fabric is more or less saturated. Depending on the weight of fabric or canvas used (from bed sheets up to heavy drop cloths) and the amount of primer/filler used (or not) on the top coat(s), it is reported that you can get anything from a slightly abrasive grid texture, all the way out to smooth.

I'll throw a link out to the thrifty thread and see if anyone can comment further.

And here is the cross reference link back to the big Thrifty threadhttp://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=39373&p=965145#p965145

[wagondude]

You will need to do the same type of prep as you would for epoxy/glass, so adheision of the paint/canvas should not be a problem. The surface will be as hard as the cured paint. So if your paint isn't rubbery, there is no reason why your surface would be (unless the canvas was not saturated). For your aplication, you might even consider just picking up some bed sheets at the local thrift store for the skin. You already have the structural support, so your fabric can be very light weight and still acomplish your final goal. This will also allow the use of less paint for the whole process.

[GPW]

A fabric covering will seal and prevent any more wood from splitting , and absorbing water ... I had the exact same problem with my first wooden TD build , where the roof was curved (all over) , the plywood split across the bend lines ... Aluminum is a Standard cure all here , but since it floats , it does little for the surface underneath , so if water gets in , and you know it will , further damage will result , and will be unseen till it’s too late ... Fabric SEALS the entire surface , resulting in a smooth , hard surface that eliminates many problems ... and it’s Thrifty too ... Well proven too since my canvas covered Foamie has sat Outside for more than a year now , with no change , other than a few dead leaves and some bird poop .. easily washed off by the next rain shower ...

[Wobbly Wheels]

Epoxy and glass will absolutely, positively 100% seal the outer surface against water. As KC mentioned, that comes at a bit of a price premium though.

Since you're using a marine paint: brand new boats are coated below the waterline with an epoxy barrier coat before the bottom paint goes on because it's cheap insurance when you look at the potential cost of a warranty repair for blisters.
The development of user-friendly epoxy resins has invigorated the amateur boatbuilding market. One of its biggest attributes is that it bonds so well to wood and that it takes very little to give you a tight, guaranteed-waterproof membrane to protect your hard work.

No, I don't sell the stuff...but I certainly buy enough of it !

As far as sanding goes: no matter what, your finished product will only be as good as what's underneath it. For epoxy to really shine, it needs to bond with the wood. An RO sander and a box of 60G or 80G discs will get you there pretty quick though...and it's the last time you'll ever have to do it.
Otherwise, you are bonding (whatever you apply) to a compromised surface. If the swelling has gotten into the wood, the wood needs to be laid bare so that moisture can evaporate or it will plague whatever finish you put on top of it.
Look up blister repair methods on boat hulls - a lukewarm approach to water ingress is a false economy: especially in a wood substrate.

I'm not ripping on any other suggestions here: canvas and paint has been used on workboats for generations and, while it requires a bit of maintenance if it's used hard, that maintenance is cheap. Epoxy is a one-time investment.
That's a call we all make for ourselves.

Whichever way you go, these forums are loaded with experience to help.

[CliffinGA]

Like Wobbly wheels suggested I would take it down to the wood and epoxy it and tape the seams and then do what ever on the exterior! Even if you do the AL you need the wood sealed! Costly yes but you can get 1 1/2 gallons from aeromarine for $99 and shipping. I used it on mine and they ship it very fast and its a good sealing epoxy. Just my 2 cents for what its worth!

Good luck bud!

Cliff

[droid_ca]

Like Wobbly wheels suggested I would take it down to the wood and epoxy it and tape the seams and then do what ever on the exterior! Even if you do the AL you need the wood sealed! Costly yes but you can get 1 1/2 gallons from aeromarine for $99 and shipping. I used it on mine and they ship it very fast and its a good sealing epoxy. Just my 2 cents for what its worth!

Good luck bud!

Cliff

Sorry to go off topic but Cliff do you have alink for them Thanks

[CliffinGA]

Droid I'm using my phone but if you google it AeroMarine will pull up, I used the non blushing 300/21 kit.

Cliff

[Fishingtomatoseed]

Wow. Thanks for all the thoughts. I am going to do some reading and looking and see which way I want to go. There looks to be benefits in whatever is chosen. It is inside the shop now all opened up drying right now and may stay there for a while unless there is a rainless weekend.

[Fishingtomatoseed]

This is just an update. For the ones that have seen the trailer and for the ones who have seen pictures of the trailer the tongue was just a tad bit too long. So this weekend and last weekend my dad and I cut the tongue off and reworked the front.



I had gotten the new A-frame coupler thinking that the A-frame on the trailer was already set up at the correct angle. But it was not. So we cut everything off of the trailer and use the two pieces that were already there and reset the angle.



To set the new angle where the A-frame drawbar reaches the trailer we cut notches in the c channel and then used a 12 ton pipe bender to bend the new angles.



Then we used a wire brush on a grinder to prep all the metal for welding.



Here's my little welding buddy.



This is the new angles set and welded in.



We tacked the coupler on and then set it underneath the trailer and used floor jacks and jackstands to position the tongue. We moved around until it looked right and then marked down all the measurements.



Took it back out from underneath the trailer so I can flip it over and weld up the bottom side of coupler. Prepped the trailer side before welding. Then we positioned it back under the trailer. Coupled checked the measurement from center of coupler ball to the first bolt of the trailer leaf springs.

Over all we took 4'6" of length off. 30# of metal.

[aggie79]

Nice job Clint. Looked like your little helper did most of the hard work! Enjoy your time with them when they're young. Before you know it they'll be grown up.

[Fishingtomatoseed]

Thank you Tom. It looks better with a shorter tongue. I like having the kido's come out and helping with whatever they can. Sometimes we just have to stop and draw on the floor with chalk or go take a "swing break".

[Fyddler]

Great build! Any idea the total weight?

[Fishingtomatoseed]

Great build! Any idea the total weight?

Thank you!
The total weight is 1850lbs. Thats everything loaded except food and clothes. Right now it has a tongue weight of 148lbs but that will be changing.