Building the "Heart of Gold" - Done 3/9/2014

[drewh1]

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Look what you have gotten me started on. Because this is such a nice group of people and there is so much good information . . .

I'm not sayin, I'm gonna build this thing, but this is the way I spent my Friday night. I'm going for a modified Grumman, slighly straighter front for more room. This is a scale for a 5X9 designed to fit on a 5X8 NT trailer. I probably won't use scotch tape on the real one

Which brings up a question for me. If the trailer is 5' wide and I overlap the trailer with my outside walls, how are the 5x5 1/8 inch panels going to cover the top. Won't I end up 3/4" short on each side?

[citylights]

Which brings up a question for me. If the trailer is 5' wide and I overlap the trailer with my outside walls, how are the 5x5 1/8 inch panels going to cover the top. Won't I end up 3/4" short on each side?

Most use 4x8 laun plywood for the roof and ceiling. It has all the wood grain one direction, so bends easier than regular plywood. You end up cutting it 5 wide or so to match the width of the tear with splices every 4 feet.

[danlott]

If the trailer is 5' wide and I overlap the trailer with my outside walls, how are the 5x5 1/8 inch panels going to cover the top. Won't I end up 3/4" short on each side?

Don't use 5x5 panels, use 4x8 panels and cut to fit.

You might also look at DMcCams trailer.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=35081

It is similar to your idea of a modified Grumman. His profile is my favorite profile.

Dan

[doug hodder]

That's a drawback to a wider trailer. You are going to end up cutting material, however, there are lots of places that the drop can be used. I've got a load of drop from the new standy I'm working on. The thing is, it's not all that big of a deal in the long run as you get what you want from the get go, rather than skimp on some materials and always wish you would have done it differently. Build what you want, there's no exact sized piece of ply for every situation. The extra dollars spent on the materials to get what you want will far outweigh the inconvenience of a "too small" trailer down the road. Doug

PS...I've done a number of 4'6" wide tears and they work quite well.

[asianflava]

I used 5x5 Baltic Birch on the inside (except for the walls). No problems other than it really is 5 1/8 x 5 1/8.

[Jdw2717]

I used the 5 x 5 x 1/8 birch and found that it was actually a lilt over 5 in one direction. Just check the size from the supplier. Also, you could extend the walls up and have the top set down in the side wood if you use the aluminum trim along the corners. I say use the 1/8 because it bends so nicely. You won't need straps to hold it in place and it is plenty strong. I was able to glue and nail mine as I went along the front of mine.

[drewh1]

Here is a new mockup with an improved outline. I am using DMcCam's project as an inspiration. I think this outline is a bit more elegant and flows better.

I guess I might as well start a build thread.

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[drewh1]

As I look at this design, is it clear how much the tool box add's to Dave's profile. Budget is next!

Maybe a moderator can move this to the build threads? I'll edit the title later.

[drewh1]

Transferred my small scale drawing to a larger scale. This will make it easier to transfer onto the pattern sheet.

I know it is hard to see, I am wondering if I should make the top/front radius a little softer although I kind of like this one.

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[KCStudly]

I like it.

The tuck under at the back looks a little more so than your models did. Just be sure that if you plan on having the opening portion of the rear hatch curl under the back, that the bottom edge will clear the sharp radius at the back corners of the walls (every point on the hatch profile needs to be able to swing in an arc from the center of the hatch hinge location without crossing back on the wall profile).

Might not be a problem if part of your wall skirts down below the floor, or if you plan on stopping your hatch short and having a fixed splash or rolled pan under the rear most part, but if you want the hatch to open all the way down to the floor, just eyeballing it, your rear radius looks like it may be too tight, and may tuck under just a little too far. If you haven't decided or checked this out yet, you may want to before you get too far along.

[Jdw2717]

One thing that I did and highly recommend is to get some cheap plywood (like the $8+/- kind) and some 2 x 4s, like three or so and then cut out your planned profile on the two sheets. Then cut the 2 x 4s to your intended width and screw the sides to them like you are building the camper but just enough to hold the sides up (2 on to 1 on bottom) just enough to hold it together temporarily. Then you can stand back and look at your shape in full size and even sit inside it to see how it feels. This should cost no more than $20 or so but it is well worth it. You can even cut out your door opening and see if the position will work well for getting in and out. I did this on the first side and did not like how it worked for getting out of the camper. I think I moved it back and up on the other side. This may seem like overkill but remember if you adjust all this now then you won't be left with a trailer that doesn't quite work for you. With the money you will invest, you want to be happy with the first build.

p.s. You could use cardboard but I found that the plywood was not much more money then getting large sheets of cardboard plus I had some junk 1/4" plywood in the basement. The 2 x 4s can be ripped down and used in cabinet or shelf construction so there will be no waste by buying them. The 1/4" ply can be cut to make bracing that will not show when finished so some of it will be used. If you are going to make cabinets, you could buy some nicer stuff that could later be cut into door panels and smaller parts if you want. I hope this helps.

[drewh1]

Good catch and great feedback. I am going to rework it. It didn't come out quite right. That's why we use pencil I suppose!

it is a good thing I can't afford materials right now - its giving me time to really refine the outline and design more.

drew.

[drewh1]

Here is a final draft of design. Please give me your constructive criticism and let me know if you see anything out of whack.

The design is based on the Wyoming Woody, and the Atmatravalear. I wanted a sleeker outline. I will float aluminum on the outside. Inside will be birch with cherry cabinets and cork floor.

Basics:

This is a 9 x 5 designed to fit on the NT 5x8 trailer.
Bed is 74"
I have pushed cabinets in a bit to allow for wider ribs on the hatch lid. hopefully help with spring back.
Doors will be standard 26 x 32 from Vintage Technologies.
I went with just a shelf and maybe hamper at the head of the bed to keep the space above open - adding a skylight window above.
not sure about using a soft headliner material or leaving it wood.

I moved the door back and am not sure if it should be at the top of the mattress level or just a few inches above the floor level.

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[citylights]

I moved the door back and am not sure if it should be at the top of the mattress level or just a few inches above the floor level.

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I struggled with the Door height above the deck too. I settled on a couple inches above the deck shooting for mid mattress height. I don't want to feel the door sill when I get in and out.

[drewh1]

I came up with a name for my project. The "Heart of Gold". There is a reward to anyone who knows the reference. Not sure what the reward is but I'll figure that out later.

I laid out the design on the template and sketched the outline. Tomorrow, i'll cut it out and have a template! Then I'll be impatient to do more but will have to wait till after my vacation trip to Belize . (Although, I could probably start on the walls) it is exciting to start. Seems smaller than I imagined?

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