"Jackal" 5x10 TD Running water.

[JmsCaverly]

As promised I will begin to document all of my build progress. I may have started a bit premature but that's ok I'm not too far ahead of ya. So here's were we start my frame is 5x10 I have this wonder full idea that I'll be able to fit the whole family inside. I have two little ones that will need bunks to sleep in I kinda have an idea how I want it to work out but that's still open an open plan. I plan to piece the frame as we go and I get parts in but for now frame is made with 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 3/16 steel tubing and the tounge will be 2x2 3/16 Aframe composite I plan on doing a leaf spring set up but that could change as I see a lot of people and those fancy torsion axles. This weekend will be a busy one but I'll keep you updated this should be a ton of fun. Looking at possibly starting the exterior lights wiring as most of the wire will be ran through the floor. More to come stay tuned.........


Other Discussions
7 Pin Wiring viewtopic.php?f=30&t=63879&p=1137796#p1137796


-James

[daveesl77]

Nice start and keep us up on the build! As to the family side, My 5x10x5 would actually work fine on that. In my front section I have a 20"+ wide space that I use for cabinets and ductwork. Pull those out, install bunk bed and voila, room for 4, with floor space too. My galley resides under my bed frame when moving and goes full exterior when stopped.

dave

[JmsCaverly]

I have a 20"+ wide space that I use for cabinets and ductwork. Pull those out, install bunk bed and voila, room for 4, with floor space too.
dave

That's the same thing I plan on doing also same size bunks and all. I'll have to check your build and take some notes.

[JmsCaverly]

So I'm working on the trailer wiring and I have looked at a few schamtics and I can't really tell how the lights themselves are grounded I wanted some input from you guys on how you've done it ie. Independent grounds or a group ground for all the light I'll attach a diagram of how I plan on doing mine.
I know this is double posted I'm just trying to keep track of everything.

[pchast]

IMHO... Do yourself a favor and run a ground wire to each light.

[tony.latham]

IMHO... Do yourself a favor and run a ground wire to each light.

Ditto.

Tony

[JmsCaverly]

IMHO... Do yourself a favor and run a ground wire to each light.

Thanks for the tip I will work it into the plans

-james

[daveesl77]

On the wiring, absolutely run ground and power wires to each component. Now, what I did was to create junction points at different areas of the trailer. Meaning "circuit A" is for interior lights, so I run a single 12 ga. feed ( + and - ) to 2 terminal strips ( one+, one- ) near where I planned to split off for the individual lights. I have an overhead LED strip, a small "reading" led light behind the head of each bed side, a small LED and an underbed LED. All are individually switched and 2 are remote controlled. So, from the junction points I can run much smaller wires to the LEDs, since they have very low amperage draws. This system is repeated for all circuits, both 12v and 120v.

dave

[oldsloane]

As I am a worry wart I plan on running 2 grounds and two hots to each light that will be inaccessible after the roof is installed. I will label the spares in the fuse panel with a numbering system for future use. (something I hope I never have to use) Since all lighting will be LEDs I will use 16 ga for lights and have a heavier ga from the fuse panel to any service outlet. I plan on making a trip to a pick a part and reusing a fuse panel from a late model car. I am planning on a utility box on the tongue that will hold my spare, battery and fuse panel. This way I can run the wiring through the roof slats before I install the roof skin. My first attempt at building a tear but I have built a few trailers and a truck camper in the past so this is exciting and challenging.

[JmsCaverly]

On the wiring, absolutely run ground and power wires to each component. Now, what I did was to create junction points at different areas of the trailer. Meaning "circuit A" is for interior lights, so I run a single 12 ga. feed ( + and - ) to 2 terminal strips ( one+, one- ) near where I planned to split off for the individual lights. I have an overhead LED strip, a small "reading" led light behind the head of each bed side, a small LED and an underbed LED. All are individually switched and 2 are remote controlled. So, from the junction points I can run much smaller wires to the LEDs, since they have very low amperage draws. This system is repeated for all circuits, both 12v and 120v.

dave

Yeah I like this idea I was thinking I could just have a central location to have a fuse box for the three different electrical systems one being the trailer and exterior lighting, next being the interior lights and outlits and finally the charging system. I think each will have there own fuse box and their own grounds. That way using a multimeter I'll just have to be in one place instead of having to go around to each light to check voltage.

Now I haven't quite looked into which kinds of lights I'll use incondscent or led but I do know I would like each system to run its own fuse and ground for more isolated faults.

[noseoil]

Take a look at the PD4045 panel. It has everything you need (& more), but in the long run it greatly simplifies the issues of wiring, charging & running a system which is in a single location on your build. It seems to be the best value in terms of time, money & versatility. It will cost a lot more than a regular fuse block, but it will also charge the battery from shore power, provide 110v circuits with breakers if you need any, & give you 10 fuses for all of the 12v stuff you might be using.

Definitely run 2 wires to everything for your 12v stuff. Grounds seem to always be the problem later on & it eliminates this issue & gives you a central point to look at when trouble-shooting, if you need to.

I use a small alarm panel 12v battery for my wiring, 1.5 amp hours, tiny. Made a small harness with 2 alligator clips to check the runs as I go for + & -. It lets you test each circuit, light or switch when it's installed. If you find something wrong, you can fix it at the time & move on. When it drops in voltage a little, I just plug it into a 12 volt outlet in the truck & run errands with it plugged in. After a while it's back up to 12.7v & ready for more wiring. Nice to be able to check things BEFORE the walls & skin are all buttoned up and inaccessible. Saves trips to the moaning chair......

[JmsCaverly]

Nice little updated for the day, I got all the steel to finish up what was need for the tongue. But I got hit with running out of wire in the middle of a weld so I'll need to finish that up tomorrow. I got most of what I need to "start" the exterior wiring so that will happen tomorrow as well. Again thanks to all those that have given advise on how to proceed it's good to have a place to run too for help.

Noseoil thanks for the tip I'll check into that tonight might be something to order for next weekends work.

Again here's some pics from today

[JmsCaverly]

Well well well I have a frame, now this is getting exciting. I have been graced by the electrical gods!!!! I have a buddy of mine thats going to help with all the electrical systems. Awesome thing is he already has a plan on how to wire my whole trailer, he and his father rewired their RV a few years ago and he learned a few do's and don'ts.

His plan is to have four separate systems:
One: exterior wiring

Two: interior lighting and outlets (a small number of outlets with AC will be installed with a converter to power laptops or small electronics.)

Three: Charging system (after a long debate about how this should be done and a lot of reading on the forums no power from the TV will be supplied charging will come from shore power whether its my generator or camp site hook -ups) for the most part battery power will only be used if I'm not near my generator or I'm not at a camp site which then the only four lights can be powered by the battery (interior dome light, and both porch lights and the rally light)

Four: AC system (strictly just from shore power cords I have seen the thread about this and thats that basic plan K.I.S.S.) really the only things that will need a dedicated line for AC will be the T.V., D.V.D Player, Climate Right ac/heater, and the Mini Fridge which can only be used at a camp site anyway.

The plan is to keep things from overlapping and causing issues and with separate systems, trouble problems will be isolated to just that system.

More about the frame today I was able to convince my buddy to come by one more time and weld up the last few pieces of the frame so I can start to paint the frame this weekend. The leaf springs and hubs have been ordered in a kit from Trailerpartsdepot.com out of Oxford Mass. those should be here friday. really excited to get that in a rolling chassis form. I also welded in some corner braces for stabilization legs for all four corners (with kids jumping around I don't want this shaking too much.

As always heres some pics for you to enjoy.

-James

[noseoil]

James, I went with the Samsung 22" LED TV & a Sony DVD player to go with it. If you stay under 24" for a screen size, the Samsung model comes with a transformer which drops power to 12v DC, just like the Sony DVD. You can use 12v wiring for both of these and have a system which runs without shore power or an inverter and uses very little current. I'm using a solar panel to charge the battery (group 27 AGM).

I'm doing a similar thing with the AC power (designated circuits), but most of what you need can be run with 12 volts for the lighting & other stuff, makes things much easier to wire & there's less heat buildup when it's up & running. Just sayin'......

[Vedette]

Go Torsion Axle from Dexter! No Question!
Especially if you are planning to travel with your Teardrop.
I hope for your sake that I am not too late with this recommendation???
Hey, it is never too late orders can be cancelled.
Buy directly from Dexter and get your exact specs built into your axle ....it is cheap too!
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi