Hybrid OffRoad/Highway Trailer

[eagle24]

This is the sketch of a simple trailer I am starting. I will try and post pictures of progress every few days once I get started. I'm also going to try and keep a running tab on the cost of the build. I won't include things I already have in my shop.

Progressive Dynamics PD4135 & Breakers - $185
Miscellaneous Steel - $140
LED Trailer Running Lights - $22
LED Interior Lights - $21
30 Amp Power Cord & Shore Power Receptacle - $54
Windows & Door Locks - $369
15x7 Aluminum Wheels - $263

Total to date = $1054.00

[Carl01234]

Get the pictures a rolling

[lincolnlerner]

Love the design. Looks like you have a great start! Wonder if the inside will be long enough for you. Don't know if you need to add a bit of length or take more storage away. Seems right on the mark. What is the angle of the slope in back? You may reduce the slope, just a tad, to get more space and aero. I think 23 degrees is the max aero and that is generous. Course your aesthetics is fine. Are you building the trailer? Great!

[eagle24]

7/20/2018

Wheels arrived today and I went to the tire store. A few more purchases.

Tires - $200
Chassis Saver Qt - $39

Total to date = $1293.00



Cut a wall pattern, but not quite satisfied with the door.


Officially underway! Frame is tacked together and square. Took about 2 hrs this afternoon in some killer Alabama heat and humidity. I had to stop and get cooled off in the pool.

[eagle24]

Nothing to see, but a few more parts expenditures. Will have axle mounted and pics of finished chassis in next few days.

Axle - $260
5000 btu A/C - $135
Springs & Mounting Hardware - $87
Coupler & Jack - $45

Total to date = $1820.00

[tony.latham]

I assume you'll put a ceiling fan/vent and you'll have two screened windows? A little 35 amp/hour wheelchair battery would be fine.

A teardrop without great ventilation is not a fun place.



Tony

[eagle24]

I assume you'll put a ceiling fan/vent and you'll have two screened windows? A little 35 amp/hour wheelchair battery would be fine.

A teardrop without great ventilation is not a fun place.



Tony

Fantastic-Vent, 2-24x20 sliding windows, 5000btu a/c

[tony.latham]

I assume you'll put a ceiling fan/vent and you'll have two screened windows? A little 35 amp/hour wheelchair battery would be fine.

A teardrop without great ventilation is not a fun place.



Tony

Fantastic-Vent, 2-24x20 sliding windows, 5000btu a/c

You had me worried!



T

[KTM_Guy]

I assume you'll put a ceiling fan/vent and you'll have two screened windows? A little 35 amp/hour wheelchair battery would be fine.

A teardrop without great ventilation is not a fun place.



Tony

Fantastic-Vent, 2-24x20 sliding windows, 5000btu a/c

You had me worried!



T

As soon as my fan came in I put it on the roof with a couple of wires to a battery. Made working inside so much nicer. I probably have 30 hours on the fan already.

[eagle24]

Chassis is complete except for paint.




Tire spacing from trailer worked out great at 2-3/8"



Sits pretty level behind my Tacoma

[eagle24]

Clamped the pattern on the trailer to have a look. Also cut the plywood for the floor.

[KCStudly]

Looks pretty good!

One thing I noticed in my build is that if you have the slightest hiccup in the profile going from a gentle curve to a flat surface (or even from one curve to the next), the plywood will have a hard time contouring and/or you will have a hard time blending a join at that location, especially if using "thicker" ply like 5mm (3/16") instead of 1/8". You might also end up with a gap that is hard to fill and make look nice, especially if you are trying to avoid having to use corner trim between inside wall and ceiling. Those will also be the points where there is the highest stress on the bend, so could be a point where your plywood might want to crack instead of following the profile.

So where your front radius comes into the flat roof, it looks to have a little bit of a corner there, now is the time to try and blend that transition in nice and smoothly. (Or it could just be the way the photo makes it look with the irregular background (tree branches, leaves and such).

[eagle24]

Looks pretty good!

One thing I noticed in my build is that if you have the slightest hiccup in the profile going from a gentle curve to a flat surface (or even from one curve to the next), the plywood will have a hard time contouring and/or you will have a hard time blending a join at that location, especially if using "thicker" ply like 5mm (3/16") instead of 1/8". You might also end up with a gap that is hard to fill and make look nice, especially if you are trying to avoid having to use corner trim between inside wall and ceiling. Those will also be the points where there is the highest stress on the bend, so could be a point where your plywood might want to crack instead of following the profile.

So where your front radius comes into the flat roof, it looks to have a little bit of a corner there, now is the time to try and blend that transition in nice and smoothly. (Or it could just be the way the photo makes it look with the irregular background (tree branches, leaves and such).

Great point! I'm still wrestling with the side profile. Rounding the corners is probably good advice, but if I do much rounding, I'll probably move on to one smooth curve and traditional teardrop shape. I like the look of this shape though.

[eagle24]

Floor framed. Poplar framing and AC Pine Plywood stapled and glued with marine epoxy. Liberal coat of marine epoxy rolled on the entire bottom.

[eagle24]

Doesn't look like I'm doing much, but I've actually worked pretty hard for 3-4 hrs every evening after work. Lot's of little things, lots of planning and thinking Second night of cutting and glueing the stick frame. I primed the backside of the oak plywood and primed all the stick framing with marine epoxy. Then everything is glued in place with slightly thickened marine epoxy. I'll go over everything and put some epoxy fillets in places tomorrow. Also, if there are any voids or cracks that need filling, I'll deal with those too. The inside walls were clamped together and sanded before putting the stick framing on. I'll clamp them together and sand them again after they are both framed. The framing is all located to support the interior rear cabinet and air conditioner. I've also located vertical support at the spots the roof rack will be attached.

I'm also working on the fender mount design and how I want to position the fenders. I'm definitely going to have to do some trimming and I'm toying with the idea of making some cuts in the corners (jeep style fenders) and spreading them slightly.