First time teardrop build

[ToxicFlies]

Got started today with a 1974 pop-up

and ended the day with just a frame.

And a pile of scrap.

Few things I found out today are.
It's the perfect length of 10' as I hoped.
On the other hand the axle is only 52 inches from hub to hub. So I'm going to have to figure out how to stretch it out I want 64ish in between for an inside dimension of
5'w * 10'l * 4't. It looks to be a pipe with welded hubs on the end so cutting and splicing should be fairly straightforward.

For the floor I'm going to do 1/2" ply, 1" foam then 1/4" ply top.

Walls will be 1/4" maple ply outside, 1" foam middle with wood supports for doors and 1/4" something inside. For a 1 1/2" total thickness.

Ceiling inside 1/4" ply, 2*2" cross pieces and foam then 1/4" ply with painted PMF roof.

That's all I've figured out so far. Been reading on here for a few weeks now and have learned a lot of different things to help along the way. Always up for comments and advice.
Chris

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[Woodbutcher]

Enjoy your build, it's a big part of the fun! Post lots of pictures as we like to follow along.

[tony.latham]

For the floor I'm going to do 1/2" ply, 1" foam then 1/4" ply top.

Walls will be 1/4" maple ply outside, 1" foam middle with wood supports for doors and 1/4" something inside. For a 1 1/2" total thickness.

Why the 1/2" ply on the bottom of the floor? Why not 1/4"?

It's easier to make the skeleton (and floor framing) from 3/4" material. Otherwise, you're going to have to rip boards to 1". The challenge though is finding 3/4" foam board.

I prefer to use 3/4" plywood for the skeletons.



But I have also used pine.

Tony

[ToxicFlies]

Why the 1/2" ply on the bottom of the floor? Why not 1/4"?

It's easier to make the skeleton (and floor framing) from 3/4" material. Otherwise, you're going to have to rip boards to 1". The challenge though is finding 3/4" foam board.

I prefer to use 3/4" plywood for the skeletons.

But I have also used pine.

Tony

I had thought on the floor have the thicker material on the bottom would be better in my mind and it'll be Marine ply also. Hadn't planned on putting any framing in the floor just the ply foam sandwich. Should I I want this done good and I want it to last a good long while.
As for the walls ripping pine down to 1" isn't that big of deal I have a whole woodshop in my garage planers and jointers will make quick work of it. I understand plywood might be a little stronger as it's all one piece but I was concerned with weight I suppose.
Just a door on each side and a vent in the roof. Were just about the only places o had planned adding internal structure.
Again I am here to learn and open to suggestions. I will research this plywood skeleton some more also.
I think my floor should be alright and strong enough might do 1 1/2" foam on bottom just for that little extra.

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[ToxicFlies]

After doing some more reading I am going to go 1.5" foam in floor with framing around edge obviously so I can attach walls ( not sure how I planned on doing it without) and probably a couple throughout the middle. Still got to figure frame out first though.

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[Atomic77]

Some like the floor framed with thinner flooring, some don't frame the floor and use the thicker foam/ply sandwich. I'm in the latter camp, but I also have a standy and I'm walking in it. I think it boils down to preference and how you decide to attach the walls.

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[tony.latham]

I'm in the camp that believes that if you have a cold floor in a teardrop, you don't have enough mattress. That's not my thoughts on standies of course.

But I still build with 3/4" of insulation in the floor. (What the???)

The way I attache the walls, I need meat in the floor. It's also needed for the rear bulkhead, headboard supports and the roof to screw into. Foam board adds stiffness to a framed-out floor that is sheathed in 1/4" ply on both sides.

Here's my floor plan:



I'll crank it out next week. And I'm also one of the nut-jobs that seals the bottom with epoxy, not stuff mined from the La Brea Tar Pits. (Which works too.)

T

p.s The plywood in the galley is there to support the battery, 7 galloons of water, and the propane heater.

[Atomic77]

Your frame is basically the same frame I started with. Then Carrie wanted a bathroom, an indoor kitchen and ability to stand when putting on pants lol. So it grew. By the way, I comment as things come to mind, and in your case I would pay close attention to Tony's design. It's tried and true.

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[ToxicFlies]

I definitely appreciate all the comments and help. As soon as I get my axle lengthened a bit and some other minor changes to frame I'll get started. I'm working nights this week and my welder works days so progress will be slow to start but will keep post updated.
More studying and reading.
Thanks Chris

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[Atomic77]

I definitely appreciate all the comments and help. As soon as I get my axle lengthened a bit and some other minor changes to frame I'll get started. I'm working nights this week and my welder works days so progress will be slow to start but will keep post updated.
More studying and reading.
Thanks Chris

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Not sure where you're located, but we have a RV Surplus store within an hour. You might Google your area. I picked up a new Dexter axle, springs and electric brakes, new and on the cheap. There were a bunch of widths to choose from. It sure made it easy on me.

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[ToxicFlies]

Starting to work on frame today. Won't get a lot done as I am waiting on some c-channel so I can modify it and stretch the axle.


The blue circled areas have the framing bent outward so I can't just move the springs out. Im having new c-channel made so I can weld in new straight pieces which will allow me to place springs and where I need to.


My question is how much space do I need between the outside of body and in side of wheel. I want to put some fenders on but not sure of spacing to leave.
Say in I want an outside dimension of TD of 60'' should I make the axle 64" from inside of the wheels 2" on each side?

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[ToxicFlies]

Not sure where you're located, but we have a RV Surplus store within an hour. You might Google your area. I picked up a new Dexter axle, springs and electric brakes, new and on the cheap. There were a bunch of widths to choose from. It sure made it easy on me.

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There are camper places around but I don't think it's necessary in my case to get all new axle and stuff. Also it allows me to get exactly the size I want. I am located in south central Nebraska. I feel that money could be better spent on other things. I'm learning as I go.

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[tony.latham]

My question is how much space do I need between the outside of body and in side of wheel.

I'm using an axle with a hub face distance of 74" on this build along with zero off-set rims. (The same as my last build --it works.)



Tony

[ToxicFlies]

I'm using an axle with a hub face distance of 74" on this build along with zero off-set rims. (The same as my last build --it works.)



Tony

So how much room is that going to be between your outside wall and the tire? 2" or so on either side

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[ToxicFlies]

About a hour, 4 zip disc and 2 sawzall blades my frame is now in 3 sections and 2 side rails.

These frames are not welded together all that great but there's so many of them I guess is where they get the strength needed.

I will cut the spring support rails out of the middle sections to replace those bent rails with the straight ones I had made today.


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