Northwestern Build - Updated 7/4/2010 - Done!

[starleen2]

Could you give us a pict of the hatch in the closed position from the inside facing to the rear so we may see what it looks like when closed at the problem area? I don't see how a swing clear continuous hinge is going to work. Are you planning to rest the upper rear wall section of the side rails of the lower section when folded down? Looks like you would have to add someting to the sides to get them to seal to the hatch wall in order for the wall to drop down out of the way?

[mikeschn]

You could also cut down your inside walls by 1 1/2", and lower your back wall hinge by the same amount.

Mike...

Let me see if I can offer a solution? perhaps add to the offset to raise the hatch for the needed clearance when closed? Cut a filler strip and attach it where it t gets thinner at the top and ends at 1.25 inches at the bottom. Since you dont have the exterior skinned yet, you can hide the seam

That would work. The only problem is that it kind of goofs up the overall profile of the trailer. It raises the hatch slightly and really changes the way the trailer looks. I don't care for that...

There are several other hinge options out there...

swing clear continuous hinges
flipper door systems http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=34
pocket door slides

[starleen2]

You could also cut down your inside walls by 1 1/2", and lower your back wall hinge by the same amount.

Mike...

Let me see if I can offer a solution? perhaps add to the offset to raise the hatch for the needed clearance when closed? Cut a filler strip and attach it where it t gets thinner at the top and ends at 1.25 inches at the bottom. Since you dont have the exterior skinned yet, you can hide the seam

That would work. The only problem is that it kind of goofs up the overall profile of the trailer. It raises the hatch slightly and really changes the way the trailer looks. I don't care for that...

There are several other hinge options out there...

swing clear continuous hinges
flipper door systems http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=34
pocket door slides

Would have to agree with mike on this. I know it's a lot of work - and believe me a redsign is no fun at this stage, but it will keep the original profile. Anything else might just be a complex solution that you're not entirely happy with

[wlivesey]

You could also cut down your inside walls by 1 1/2", and lower your back wall hinge by the same amount.

That was the first solution that came to mind. It's pretty simple really - keep cutting until there is enough clearance. I only hesitate because if I goof it up I could be rebuilding a lot more than a hatch.

[wlivesey]

Could you give us a pict of the hatch in the closed position from the inside facing to the rear so we may see what it looks like when closed at the problem area? I don't see how a swing clear continuous hinge is going to work. Are you planning to rest the upper rear wall section of the side rails of the lower section when folded down? Looks like you would have to add someting to the sides to get them to seal to the hatch wall in order for the wall to drop down out of the way?

I think you're right about the swing clear hinge. It won't work... I do plan on the rear wall section resting on the sides, as you described.

I'll see if I can get a picture of the problem...

[wlivesey]

Here are a few pictures of the problem.

From a distance for perspective.


Closer..


Even closer...

[starleen2]

Suggestion:
If you’re going to lower the side and rear walls – Add your blockers in first and secure them to the paneling (illustrated by purple blocks). It looks like you have plenty of meat in those side walls. That way when you trim them down (black Line), you’ll still have enough framing to support the walls.

[wlivesey]

Suggestion:
If you’re going to lower the side and rear walls – Add your blockers in first and secure them to the paneling (illustrated by purple blocks). It looks like you have plenty of meat in those side walls. That way when you trim them down (black Line), you’ll still have enough framing to support the walls.

I've given myself a week to find another good way to fix my little problem and have come up with zilch. The only option that even comes close is completely rebuilding the hatch. Needless to say, I REALLY don't want to do that.

It looks like cutting down the walls by about 1 or 2 inches is the best way to go. It really shouldn't be tough to do, I'm just hesitant to do something I can't reverse.

[wlivesey]

The walls have been cut down by about 1.25 inches and all is well. Everything should fit just fine now.

We also framed, skinned and stained the upper half of the rear wall this weekend. We are going to work out all the hinging and sealing details this week. After that's done, I guess we will finish up the electrical system and move on to insulating.

[starleen2]

Looked really good ( can't tell that it was even modified!)
Here is the gasket material I used– It is vinyl covered foam door weather striping. It does the job nicely and remains flexible. I found at Lowes during a search for suitable materials.

Here it is installed on the sides

And on the rear panel

Its flexible properties allow it to remained sealed up against the surfaces no natter where they are in the pivot cycle and doesn't scuff up the finish either.

[aggie79]

Nice recovery, Bill.

My build's biggest oops - frame miscalculation - set me back financially as well as motivationally "taking the wind out of my sails." I'm happy to see your solution to the "issue" at hand.

I still need to get by someday...

Tom

[wlivesey]

I've been thinking about the exterior aluminum more lately. I'm thinking about giving it a riveted look. I would probably use screws, not rivets, but the appearance would be similar.

Thoughts???

[aggie79]

Bill - I may be a little biased but 'm using aluminum, so I like that look, and think it would look great on your teardrop.

I haven't yet decided on trim, but am leaning to go "old school" with the edge molding (no insert) and using square drive stainless steel screws.

I saw on another post that you were looking for wide aluminum. I think that is wise. I bought my aluminum before I knew that option was available. To get the width, I'll have to piece together and seam the aluminum to make it work. Oh well, looks like another challenge.

Tom

[wlivesey]

The old school look is exactly what I'm going for. I hadn't really thought about the edge molding but what you described sounds perfect to me.

Even though I won't have seams in the aluminum, I'm still thinking of using rivets (screws) down the side to give it a really old school look. I just don't want to have a problem with leaks around the screws. Any thoughts on that???

Considering the profile, riveted aluminum might make it look like something straight out of Roswell.

[starleen2]

Something you might want to consider: adding TYVEK (or similar product) after the insulation. Not so sure about condensation Issues or where you'll primarily be camping, but maybe a moisture barrier? You could seal the screws with clear silicone sealer? Last time I used Aluminum, I used a sealing tape along the areas where I driving the screw. This is a gummy type tape is usually used for sealing metal roofs. I ran it along the stud and the applied the aluminum. It did double duty - held the aluminum and sealed the hole - while remaining flexible for expansion. The advantage is no messy clean up after the silicone squeezes out. See this Thread:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=31701&highlight=

Expect some "oil Canning" to happen - it just does it Texas. BTW - Thanks for the Album Link - just knew you were holding out on some more picts!