Terry's TTT Garageable Standy Build modifications

[ocb_dave_ocb]

Camper is coming along very nicely but I do have to agree with the others. That is a lot of screws lol. There is one thing that does seem to be concernin me though. Are you compromising the integrity of the wood by placing the screws in such close proximity. The screw on the vertical plane is only what looks to be just a cm or so from the other screw on the horizontal plane. For structural strength would it have been better to place the vertical screws in between the horizontal screws.

Instead of
•| •| •| •|

Should it be like this
• | • | • |

I hope that made since. Are really it doesn't matter now because it is already done lol

[bdosborn]

Terry uses epoxy on all his joints. While he uses more screws than I would have, I think he's fine structurally since he does use the epoxy.

Bruce

[angib]

For structural strength would it have been better to place the vertical screws in between the horizontal screws.

I can't see any structural reason why that is true - indeed I think what Terry's done is absolutely correct.

Except that most of the fasteners are a waste of time if the joints have also been epoxied - many forum members seem to think bolts are inherently strong, but they are only as strong as the wood they are attached to. Epoxy (or any good glue) joins every inch of one timber to another while bolts just join them intermittently, where the bolts are.

[terryjones1]

Shown below is a photo of the bed platform framing.
The deminsions are 76" side to side x 64-1/2" front to back.
The 5/8" x 6" Baltic Birch plywood at the back end of the trailer is where the two 5/8" Baltic Birch plywood bed platforms will be attached using two piano hinges.
Each platform will be 36-1/2" wide.
The center wall is where one side of each bed platform will rest.
The other side of each platform will, of course, rest on the outside walls.




Shown below is another view.

[myoung]

Except that most of the fasteners are a waste of time if the joints have also been epoxied - many forum members seem to think bolts are inherently strong, but they are only as strong as the wood they are attached to. Epoxy (or any good glue) joins every inch of one timber to another while bolts just join them intermittently, where the bolts are.

I agree that epoxy can and is an effective and often superior fastening system. Just look at fiberglass boats that have virtually no fasteners. My Father built a 44-foot trawler yacht will lots of wood encapsulated or bonded with epoxy. Traditional screw or bolt fasteners were kept to an absolute minimum, usually just to hold things together until the epoxy cured. That boat is still plying the waterways 35 years after launching without a single instance of joint failure or cracking.

[2bits]

Are you planning any cabinets under the bed? Seems like a good opportunity for storage space!

[terryjones1]

Are you planning any cabinets under the bed? Seems like a good opportunity for storage space!

I will certainly use that area for storage.
I do not have any plans for cabinets under the bed.
The battery will be located in that area on the door side.
I will, also, have my wine cellar under the bed.
The cellar will not require the whole area.

[terryjones1]

I am on delay for a week.
I will be on vacation in Oregon.
Maybe this year I will have a photo of me feeding a panther.
I was hoping to get a picture of a lion cub; but the wild animal park does not have one this year.
I will post more when I return.

[terryjones1]

I am on delay for a week.
I will be on vacation in Oregon.
Maybe this year I will have a photo of me feeding a panther.
I was hoping to get a picture of a lion cub; but the wild animal park does not have one this year.
I will post more when I return.

I did not visit the Wild Animal Park.
Therefore, there is no animal pictures.

Shown below is a photo of the small cabinet by the door.
The cabinet needs to be sanded and varnished.

The top 1/2" plywood and plastic laminate still needs to be installed.



Shown below is the bed platform with front plywood installed.
It needs to be sanded and painted.
The two tops need to be sanded, painted. and installed.



Shown below is the large cabinet frame.
It has been installed.
The large opening at the right, is where the refrigerator will be installed.
The opening below that is where the Porta Potti will reside.
Notice, there is no bottom framing on the Porta Potti side.
This will allow the Porta Potti to slide out and in easily.

The shelves and sides should be installed tomorrow.

[kinto]

I will, also, have my wine cellar under the bed.

uh, oh... hopefully my girlfriend doesn't read this or i'll need to incorporate one of those into mine!

your build is looking great!


kent

[terryjones1]

Shown below is a photo of the large cabinet accross from the entrance door.
I will probably install a secod shelf on the left side of cabinet.
The shelves have not been permanently installed.
I need to remove them to work on installing electrical wiring.



Next I will be working on the Air Conditioning cabinet in back of the bed.

[terryjones1]

This posting shows photos of most of the 110 ACV wiring.

Shown below is a photo of the 110 ACV Duplex recepticle that is in the front, next to the hole that will be where the Fantastic Vent will be installed.



Shown below is a photo of the 110 ACV wiring that comes from above photo of recepticle. It will go to the converter.



Shown below is a photo of the 110 ACV Duplex recepticle that is in the back, next to the hole, that will be where the Air Conditioneer will be installed.



Shown below is a photo of the 110 ACV wiring that comes from above photo of recepticle.
It will go to the converter.
The hole in the middle is for mounting the tail light/stop light.
Of course there is one on the other side.



Shown below is a photo of the 110 ACV Duplex recepticle that is in the side of the bed platform.



Another 110 ACV Duplex recepticle will be installed above the large cabinet.


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[terryjones1]

Shown below is a photo of the large cabinet.
The 1/2" plywood top has been installed.



Shown below is a photo of the small cabinet.
The 1/2" plywood top has been installed.



I ordered the "plastic laminate" yesterday. It will take a week and a half to arrive.

Shown below is the mounting platform for the rear window Air Conditioneer.
The Air Conditioneer is pretty heavy, therefore, I built a solid platform.
Note - The platform slopes down 1/2".
I have checked to insure that the platform clears the rear spare tire when it is mounted.




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[terryjones1]

Shown below is a photo of the large cabinet with the plastic laminate top installed. A sink will be added later



Shown below is a photo of the outlets that are just above, and to the right side of the large cabinet.
The grey cable to the left is two twisted pair of electric wire that will be used for connecting the Trimetric meter.
The larger orange cable will be connected to a 110 ACV recepticle.
The larger black cable is RG-6U coax cable that will be for a TV recepticle.
The red and white wir will be used for a 12 DCV recepticle.
The Duplex recepticle, TV recepticle, 12 DCV recpticle mounting is raised 1" for clearance purposes.



Shown below is a photo of the small cabinet with the plastic laminate top installed.
The two black wires above will be used for installing a switch to control the outside porch light.
The switch mount is raised 1" for clearance purposes.




The photo shown below shows the twisted pair of red and whit wire that will be used for connecting the Norcold DC0051 12 DCV refridgerator.

[terryjones1]

Shown below is a photo of the rear clearance light, tail light, license plate light buss (5 connections).
One wire goes to the front where it is connected to the front clearance light buss (2 more connections).
I will install tie wraps to make a nice neat bundle later.



Shown below is a photo of the rear ground buss.
It is connected to the front ground buss with the # 8 green wire.
Later, it will be connected through the Trimetric Shunt to battery -.
The # 8 black wire is for + 12 DCV power to the converter, and will be connected through a 60 amp circuit breaker, and a switch to battery +.
I will install tie wraps to make a nice neat bundle later.



Shown below is a photo of the front ground buss. The # 8 green wire goes back and connects to the reear ground buss, and later, will be connected to the converter ground.
I will install tie wraps to make a nice neat bundle later.



All rough-in wiring is now complete.


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