Citylights' Tear - SOLD! - update 08-01-16

[citylights]

that is going to look awesome - I think you should consider going with the flat top aluminum fenders, they look cool for off road and are functional. Not sure if they come bit enough for those wheels and tires. BTW where did you find an FJ in that color (and what is it called)? I have not seen any around here in CA with that particular color.

I agree! Flat diamond plate aluminum fenders it will be.

The FJ color is cavalry blue. I think that was a new color for the 2013 year model. I got mine half way through 2012, but it is a 2013 model.

And if you like FJ's... You had better get one soon. I have read that 2014 is the last year they will be made!

[drewh1]

very cool FJ - I will probably by used but I did confirm that toyota will no longer make them! Not sure what that will do to used prices. I just hope I don't decide to upgrade wheels and fenders when I get my FJ

drew

[ctstaas]

A ten footer, the party's at your teardrop. I made my door entrance 36"x 27" but on a ten footer you could have double doors. I cut the base of the entrance flush with the floor. I didn't want to sit on a lip when I sit at my door.I trimmed the threshold with 1 1/2"x 1 1/2"x 1/8" aluminum angle. The other three sides were trimmed with two pieces of 3/4"x 3/4"x 1/8" aluminum angle. One piece serves as the door jam and weather seal. The other piece acts as the exterior trim and seals the first piece. The two pieces were screwed to the inside perimeter of the opening. I did not skin in aluminum but it wouldn't have changed anything with the doors and entrance if I had. Cut 5/8" off the height of the door blank. Cut 15/16" off the door blank width. I trimmed the perimeter of the door with 3/4" x 3/4"x 1/8" aluminum angle. It was a lot of mitering, drilling/ countersinking, and cutting with my hack saw but it turned out great. Layout and cut the holes for the windows, and install with the doors on the bench I used a foam mattress for my bed. I cut the sheet down the middle length wise at an angle so when there put together the sheets overlap at the bevel and there is no vertical gap to fall into during the night. I can stack the foam when I travel to store gear on the floor. Works for me.

[jimun]

Hi Citylights, your Teardrop looks good.
I was able to get back to work on mine about 3 weeks ago and it is starting to take shape. I can't wait to get it to the point of being able to use it like you have yours. Thank you for your input when I first joined. I keep going over everything again and again as I am putting it together. Just like a lot of people here. I did get my doors moved back a few inches to help with entry like you suggested and others who posted on my build. Have fun, summer is almost here.

[citylights]

Now that my teardrop is done... What next?

How about organized storage for the FJ?

Ran a power circuit to the back for the air compressor and inverter. Put a 50 amp fuze in the line.

[drewh1]

Great idea - when I get my FJ, I am going to have to build storage for dive tanks - I like the way you did this!

drew.

[drewh1]

Just FYI, I started looking at NEW FJ Cruisers today. the used prices are so darn high it might be worth it. I always swear i won't buy new cars though . . .

Hope you are getting out camping!

drew.

[citylights]

Couple more pictures of the FJ storage shaping up. Must have learned something building my teardrop. Those are better cabinet drawers than in my teardrop!

[citylights]

Just FYI, I started looking at NEW FJ Cruisers today. the used prices are so darn high it might be worth it. I always swear i won't buy new cars though . . .

Hope you are getting out camping!

drew.

I read an article that says FJs are THE highest resale value vehicle. New or used, Good luck!

[jmorganix]

GREAT THREAD COOLERMAN!

Has definitely helped me concretize some of my plans for the tear... Am definitely going with Aluminum skin! Thought about paint, stain and varnish... a "Woody" look, but the long term maintenance turns me off.

I like the A/C placement... Gotta do that, too... And, I'm adding Microwave as I saw in Juno Customs thread. I like the roof rack idea, But do add a deflector, it'll help wind resistance.

Could you detail your door and rear hatch edging and gasketing further? It would be much appreciated!

Jenn
Milwaukee

[ctstaas]

Cool cooler for a cool guy, Right? Hey I finally posted some pics of my creation. Hopefully it not too late to be of use for you in your build. Go Wildcats.
Ski

[drewh1]

Hey John - got a new Fj on Friday, same color as yours I think. I'll post some photos. Thanks for the inspiration.

drew.

[citylights]

GREAT THREAD COOLERMAN!
Could you detail your door and rear hatch edging and gasketing further? It would be much appreciated!

Thanks, sorry it took so long to respond, I was out of town the last two weeks.

My side walls and doors are 3/4 inch plywood with 1/4 inch flooring wood glued on for the inside. They are skinned in "floating" aluminum and the edge trim holds the flat aluminum on.

I tacked the aluminum siding in place, marked the door from the inside, then took the siding off and rough cut the door out with a jig saw. Then I tacked the siding more permanently in place and fine cut it with a laminate trim router. Same for the other curves on the siding.

[citylights]

GREAT THREAD COOLERMAN!
Could you detail your door and rear hatch edging and gasketing further? It would be much appreciated!

I used the 3/4 plywood and aluminum cutouts to make the doors. I used T molding for the sides of the doors. Half of the T is glued and screwed to the door, the other half seals to the side if the tear with a rubber gasket. This picture shrews when I cut the window out of the door. The next one shows a detail of the T molding corners. The last shows the fully assembled door and hinges mounted. I used wood spacers on the hinges first to get the hinge over the T molding, then replaced that with some aluminum spacers cut to fit the hinges later.

[citylights]

GREAT THREAD COOLERMAN!
Could you detail your door and rear hatch edging and gasketing further? It would be much appreciated!

I don't have any pictures of it, but I used double 1-inch aluminum angle for around the door openings on the side wall. That worked great for the straight pieces, but I had to cut one leg of the curved pieces down to 1/2 inch to get them to bend nicely around the curves. This is called "relieving" the curve.

The rear hatch has the same double 1-inch aluminum angle attached to the side walls. Then the hatch has Grants wide lip RV side moldings. There is a rubber hatch seal that attaches to the hatch and provides the seal between the two.

Here is a link for Grants parts

http://www.lilbear.teardrops.net/parts.html



Here is a picture of the inside of the finished door. You can see the 1-inch angle cut down to 1/2 inch through the curve.





And here is a picture of the galley lid open, wide lip RV edge molding on top with rubber gasket, double 1-inch angle, side leg cut down to 1/2 inch for the curve, attached to the sidewall. It is kind of hard to see because I was taking a picture of the galley lid props.