Mueller Teardrop Cargo Hauler

[mark6mueller]

Chris,

I meant to say the overall length of the the body will be under 12 feet. The floor is 10 feet long and 60 inches wide.

[down under tech]

Mark: I found out about epoxy after I used Spar varnish on my floor & it will work, just make sure it is "marine" grade. I used Cabot brand from Lowes that is UV resistant. Don't get a gallon size because it will harden up in the can if you don't use it all at once. Get some paint strainers/filters to get the lumps out of it if it gets a crust on the top after storing it & using it later on. That is what I had to do.

The epoxy is best but it costs more and you will need to get the hardener to go with it. I want to thank Doug Hodder for teaching me about epoxy on this site. Thanks, Doug he needs to get the credit for this knowledge. Get the measuring pumps & stir sticks for it, too. These are reusable. One pump of resin and one pump of hardener and mix for one minute to ensure it is thoroughly blended. Need a bigger batch two pumps to two pumps or four pumps to four pumps ect. I used foam brushes to apply it. Three coats of this with a sanding between coats, then the wood will laugh at water.

The main thing is to waterproof the end-grain of the wood because it is like a straw and it is thirsty.

Are you trying to tell Chris that the body of your trailer is going to be 5'X10'???

[teardrop_focus]

mark6mueller

Chris,

Thank you for your comments regarding my design.

You're welcome. I must remember, too, that you're out there, actually building something while I sit here (making hay while the sun shines workwise), armchair quarterbacking. Again, my hat is off to you, and especially for blazing a new trail, engineering-wise!

The first picture in this link has the planned profile. I am going to change the tail surface a little so the is a vertical portion for the lighting to install into. I want the lighting to be integrated rather than sticking out to reduce wind drag.

That's a gorgeous profile. That is difficult to achieve.

That vehicle in the background is my brother's 10 person kinetic sculpture.
10 people pedalling.
Four wheels using dirt track race car tires.
made to go over sand and float on water as well as pavement.
Built on a Ford Ranger 4WD chassis.
The kinetic sculpture race is a race of human powered art machines.
Here's a link. No idea if this will work for you. Let me know either way.

Ah! Thought it must be something like that... although I couldn't see very much of it. I knew it was utterly unique. That's wild!

And, I don't FB, so... dunno if the link works.

Thank you again for the time you took in replying to my "critique". As I've said before, I really like what it is you're trying to do. I'll be following with interest.

[Greg M]

Hi Mark,

Take a look at the Decotear in my album, It's very similar in both profile and intended use. Just remember you've got to be done by August so you can get back up to the Recumbent Retreat.
Yes, We know who you are

-Greg

[mark6mueller]

Chris,

I like drawing curves. I use a spline function in the CAD program I use. I might tweek the shape to utilize 48" plywood. I realize it's about 55" high on the sides now.

Greg,

Nice rig. I have to finish this by Mid May to come up to Portland for the races!

[Greg M]

Cool. I'm planning to be down at PIR for the Saturday (It's Spring Fling in Chehalis Wa. that weekend so I'll almost be there already), so I'll have to stop by and check it out.

-Greg

[mark6mueller]

Yesterday I welded a bunch of tabs to the frame for attaching the floor. My brother helped me come up with a plan for installing the sides and the front control arms. Today my plan is to construct the front control arm mounts and begin painting the frame. My son has offered to paint the frame. I will gladly pay him for prep and painting.

I am vacillating on how tall to make the profile. I am leaning towards about 50 + inside height. One of the points was to be able to load recumbents with fairings installed and this would make sure it will happen.

Gotta take some more pictures!

[mark6mueller]

Greg,

Nice job building Kranky. That's a very clean looking frame and design in general!

[mark6mueller]

Greg,

Decotear is very nice looking too. It looks like a compound curve on the front top surface.

[Greg M]

Mark,

Thanks for the kind words on Kranky. My favorite overheard compliment was at PIR a couple years ago when Dana from Bent Up was asking one of my friends what brand Kranky was, because he didn't recognize it. When the pros don't realize it's a homebuilt, then you know you did good
I've started on version two (known as Katü), but I doubt I'll be done for Memorial day.

As for the Decotear; I think the compound curve you're seeing is a result of the angle the picture is taken from, the fact that I put all my spars on crown outward and the way the foam under the roof vinyl gets compressed by the corner trim.

Thanks

-Greg

[mark6mueller]

I got lots done in the last couple of days: painted the frame, built the floor, and made the profiles. I'm beat! New pictures are posted. I went with the 48" sides. It was looking too messy just to make the sides a few inches taller.

[mark6mueller]

Here is a link to the profile I ended up using: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/H-Dh-uG5exIKDdNcFejXBg?feat=directlink

[Greg M]

Well that looks like plenty of room for the stupidly low racer
What's your plan for loading? Open the rear hatch and roll 'em right in?

-Greg

[mark6mueller]

So you heard Ian Simms' spelling out of what SLR means too.

I want to have a hatch that opens from maybe 4' from the rear back and down to the floor. I'll probably make my own struts to hold it up. At least one front side door would be nice too.

[mark6mueller]

I have started adding joists between the walls. Every time I would get to working on the trailer something would happen and I would have to quit before actually doing anything. Yesterday evening got a little work done though. Tomorrow I will get a lot more work done. Yea!

New picture in my album.