Re: First Dragonfly build - update Dec 2014

[bdag]

Ageless, you are spot on. Not a day in the next ten for which rain is not forecasted. *sigh* Guess I'll plant my peas instead...

Dusty, I think I've decided on the more voluminous model. It looks more robust to me, not so soft shouldered. It also uses about the same amount of material for more space. Makes sense to me. Maybe I shouldn't get ahead of myself on the first build but the thought crossed my mind to do a subtle boat tail on the kitchen end. That whole bit would gently curve to about 6" narrower.

[bdag]

Been a while but the weather is starting to comply. I was able to cut, sand, and paint during some sunbreaks. The front of the body will start at the first crossbar behind the tongue. There will be about 3'-3" from the coupler to the front of the trailer body, plenty of clearance for a tow vehicle. The existing coupler is for a 2" ball. I imagine that anyone towing this would have a vehicle small enough to warrant a 1-7/8 ball. For convenience's sake I'll be installing the smaller coupler. Thank goodness they make 'em for a 3" square tube!

Unfortunately I don't think I left enough room for the existing dolly wheel.



The axle is obviously removed and needs to be wired and painted. Any advice on painting leaf springs?



I borrowed a 4" angle grinder and then attempted to mount a 7" wire wheel on it. The guard needed to be removed. Don't try this at home apparently. I'm sorry I didn't get a picture of a couple of errant flying wires sticking out of my hand. A guard was needed. A little tinkering with some recyclables netted this piece of awesome:



My deadline is around July 11th, the due date for junior. That's seven weeks and counting. After that the wife and I decided that I wouldn't have time for extra projects for quite a while. Perhaps a few days of playing hooky would be in order...

[bdag]

It's been a cool 4 months since I've posted anything but I apparently only have time to build or post, not both. The wall frames are built with the inside skinned and insulation friction fit in the voids. The outside is unskinned. I am considering fitting all walls together and screwing from the outside of the framing into the edges of the interior walls, THEN applying the outside skin. Only problem is, how do I hold the plywood skin in place vertically while the glue dries? I could tip the whole trailer on the side...

The other option is to remove the insulation, screw through the interior wall studs into the exterior from the inside and replace the insulation. That would mean buying 2" long screws which I don't have on hand. I have to get more 1x2 furring strip anyway. As long as I'm at the hardware store, maybe I should go that way.

On another note, I'm not willing to spend $50 for a hurricane hinge. But as I opened my pickup's canopy hatch the other day, I noted the hinge. It's a hurricane style! I am now searching Craigslist for a canopy that would net me a hinge and some proper windows. Hopefully it will be an aluminum canopy that I can then give to the scrapper down the street. Or maybe I'll dismantle it and have the aluminum skin on hand for the next one.

The T-handle from the canopy could also come in handy for the hatch. Or the doors.

I think I've got some pictures on the camera. I'll try to post soon.

[campmaster-k]

[aggie79]

It's been a cool 4 months since I've posted anything but I apparently only have time to build or post, not both. The wall frames are built with the inside skinned and insulation friction fit in the voids.
I think I've got some pictures on the camera. I'll try to post soon.

You know the saying - without pictures, it didn't happen!

The outside is unskinned. I am considering fitting all walls together and screwing from the outside of the framing into the edges of the interior walls, THEN applying the outside skin. Only problem is, how do I hold the plywood skin in place vertically while the glue dries?I could tip the whole trailer on the side...

What type of exterior finish are you using? If you're going with a painted finish, you can use screws and scrap plywood to hold the plywood in place until the glue sets.



Then remove the screws and fill in the holes.

I could tip the whole trailer on the side...

They're kind of heavy. I wouldn't recommend it unless you need to!

Take care,
Tom

[bdag]

Alright, alright, alright. I prefer seeing others' photos myself.




Here is my side wall framing. Everything is 1x2. The pieces across the top are 1x3. They will be cut on a curve as shown below:



A few extra pieces of wood underneath to support the walls on the sawhorses. I screwed the two frames together and cut at the same time. Circular saw. One-handed. Hence this custom variation:



I'm not too worried about it as this is not my finished edge. This is a ledge that the headliner will rest on, then 1x3 on top of that. It only needs to be perfect about every 16" or so...

As for the exterior finish, I've already given the plywood 3 coats of marine varnish. I was planning on giving it a woody look with some dark stained pieces running across. The more I think about attachment, the more I think I should screw from the inside. That way I don't have to attach plywood to the walls after the walls are up.

Once I get more wood I'll finish the walls and start assembling. Can't wait!

BTW, LOVE the photo Aggie!

[LDK]

Dang superman Tom, did you lift that by yourself??

[bdag]

Well it's been forever since I started or updated. Long story short I decided I do not like the fine detail of wood work or teardrops. I still like tiny trailers but I think I'd like to build a painted step vardo next. This one's 96% done and I'm ready to sell.