The Round About

[Martinup]

Hi all:

Pardon me for taking a while to respond. I turned our home upside down to install hardwood flooring. So I am just now getting things plugged in again.Thanks for the interest guys. I will show you many more pictures but i am not sure about the plans. I hope that the real thing will suffice and satisfy your curiosity. I can build things quite often faster than I can draw them

Randy I have to admit I read what I wrotewas hard to understand. I'll take some close ups and hopefully that will help.

I am having a blast building this thing. Please be patient and I will post more once I have more done.

Happy trails,

Martin

[Martinup]

Hi all:

Hope your enjoying the summer. I don't know why I didn't think of this before. DUHH

The plans that where generously posted by Grant Whip and produced by great Andrew . . . sorry I don't know his last name and wonder about him as I have not read any new posts by him. . . I hope all is well with him and those close to him ? ? ?

Here is the link to to an aweswomely detailed set of the base plans which I modified:

http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear56.htm

At the bottom of this page are multiple well drawn and detailed drawings. These were easily converted by a CNC programer to get perfect profiles cut out which I started with.

CHANGE # 1:
I followed theses plans to the letter exept the rear end of my build. At the 51" hieght point I cut the cores off and extended straight back 17" maintaining the 51" hieght. This enlarges a double bed into an 80" wide bed . . . basically a king sized bed . . . for two to sleep comfortably.

CHANGE # 2:
Remember dealing with one AXIS at a time?
My roof spars are made of 1/2" Baltic birch 3" high with an inside radius of 14" and an outside radius of 17" This eliminates the need for a basement type box which allows some people to stand up in the trailer. The middle portion of the roof is flat . . . but thanks to Zak's great build info I replicated and modified his TROLLY TOP build. Nice workmanship Zak. Coming out of the roof perpendicular and rising an additional approximately 6" which we both did. I carved pieces of foam which I will clad in exterior white glue and canvas and rounding or softening the exterior look. See yellow pieces in picture.

Cheers:

Martin

[Martinup]

Well lets talk keeping things cool:

Would you like, " A cost saver ? ":
For all you campers out on the road: Ice is costs money which can add up.
As you pass a Motel, Bar or Resteraunt remeber what almost all of them have in common? A good high production Ice machine.

So stay a night, have a beer or eat lunch. . . . Ask them if they would mind if you coult fill a five gallon bucket with ice and take it with you out to your cooler. You just possibly saved yourself the price of 3 bags of ice and the environment from 3 plastic bags which end up in the garbage.

I have studied and pondered much about 3 way fridges . . . many have discussed in detail here on this site. I have even looked into what they do on boats with strictly battery operated set ups.

For this build I opt to KISS IT and show an old school, " Ice Box", yet . . . with new technology and materials:

1) Super Well Insulated: Minimum 6" of the highest , " R Valued foam ", I can find

2) Who hasn't messed about with soaking wet groceries stored in your cooler and, "The hasles of adding ice to your cooler far too often ???? "

3) Well here are simple yet proactive ways to eliminate the messies of, COOLER LIFE ".

Enjoy

I will start with a desciption later follow it up with pictures of, " How ToO Do IT Yourself", and realize that alittle bit of hard work and enginuity will save you hours of maintaining and cleaning up water logged groceries . . . melting ice.

Step Number:

1) decide what size of inside diemnsions of your Ice chest or box you need and want? Make this box in any shape you want BUT be sure to make it water tight.

2) Add between 4 and 6" of space around at least FIVE sides for ice. Provide a small hooper with a door on it to allow you to easily pour in cubed ice and fill the entire cavity around your inner box.

3) Make another box that is this much bigger again in any shape you want. Again make sure that this box is water tight as well. Now picture this: At the lowest point possible in this box you are going to hoojk on a water tight fitting and a short length of hose to drain away the water created by the ice which will constantly melt.

4) Add 6" . . . yes 6" of styrofoam around all this last box.

5) Clad this insulation with an asthetically pleasing cabinet materila be it metal wood or plastric . . . the choice is entirely up to you.


Please don't find these simple instructions condisending or an insult. When you see how I build this and put it in our trailer you will instantly recognise all the reasons why this is a great idea.

Keep sharing those smiles we all love,


Martin

[droid_ca]

This design is so cool I can't wait to see more

[Martinup]

Hi Droid

Where do you live? I see the Canadian flag . . . We are in Vancouver . . . Burnaby to be precise .

Martin

[droid_ca]

Hi Droid

Where do you live? I see the Canadian flag . . . We are in Vancouver . . . Burnaby to be precise .

Martin

Hello Martin I'm further north between Prince Georege and Jasper a small town called McBride

[Martinup]

I planted trees up around there 20 years ago. Hot summers and cold winters


Martin

[droid_ca]

yeah we do have some nice country up here ....Maybe you can do a trip up this way with your trailer would be cool to see it in person

[Martinup]

So where are we at? Well the trailer is basically completely clad in 1/8" plywood and fiber glass work has begun. In order to smooth out all the rough spots and make we have begun some hard core structural filling putty. This stuff is super light and some of the foam shaping pieces are now rock solid and one with the body. i have found a local Family owned and operated well known manufacturer of fiber glass inserts for Utility trucks and Company Ambulances. They have been well established and have produced large numbers of high quality units for many years now:
http://www.tufport.com/

After meeting with key people in this company they have offered to help with their expertise in fiber glass work on my proto type. Later if everything goes well these people know how to make fiber glass molds to and if other people want my product we may mass produce it. Just have to collect orders to offset the substantial costs and time and effort to produce the proper molds. Once I have completed the filler coats and done the Resin and hardener with fiberglass I will post more pictures. For those interested peruse my gallery photo album: gallery/search.php?user_id=14638&display=popup Cheers, Martin

[Martinup]

Hi All: Fellow Students enrolled in TRAILER UNIVERSITY ( this site )
Happy Campers Thrill Seekers
And People hopefully just enjoying life

Can someone refer me to a Link or the name of a compound with which can polish out and or inhibit rust on this. It has barely been used. I think just ambient moisture just got at it and the black stuff is rust only.



1984 Coleman Three Burnner Cook Top "Complete"
Counter top model

There is a painted steel tray that was painted or probably powder coated not pictured. I will pick up a spray bomb of High heate paint to refresh that part. I like it as it will work nicely in a metal drawer pull out I will incorperate in this build. . . Safetey first and all that stuff.

Thanks for good advise from the experts here,

Martin

[KCStudly]

If it is SS and only needs a clean up, use hot soapy water and elbow grease, then SS polish and elbow grease.

If it is SS and has rust patina wash it with detergent really well to degrease, scrub the rust with a greenie pad, then soak it with a 10/ct solution of citric acid for 30 minutes or so. Once it is done soaking rinse thoroughly with water, but avoid touching it with your bare hands (oils), then let it sit for 72 hrs undisturbed. This allows the SS to react with the air and is a form of passivation similar to anodizing. Thereafter, avoid abrasives and scouring cleaners; use soap water, soft cloth and SS cleaners, only.

[Martinup]

Thanks KC:

I'll try the lemon juice thing as you advised. I already did the wet work only I used a course steel wool and, "Easy Off", to degrease it before I took the pictures.

An aquaitance showed me a rock hard compound in the shape of a cucumber to buff out some scratches that I have in my discount purchase from the scrap yard. Pretty neat trick . . . just sand out the deeper scratches with a fine 300 or 400 grit sand paper to get down closer to the bottom of the scratch depth. Then with a special buffying pad, " AT The Right RPM", and this compound cleans up really slick. I purchased 6 sheets 4' by 10' for $250. A screaming deal considering the mirror finish is upwars of $300 a piece.

The sad part is I nevver got the name of the compound or where to get it . . . probably an Auto parts store will have it. The buffer and the speed it rotated at was critical so the SS didn't get too hot.

The Cook Top is not as important as with and use it will eventually get worse not better. I am pretty sure it is Stainless Steel . . . There are many alloys that I don't know about. I just thought it might be a lower grade of stainless steel as it is quite shiny.

Can't believe the energy you are puting into document your own build . . . Let alone the workmanship.

Martin

[Martinup]

Hi all:

It's been a while but here are a couple of up date pics. Hard at it again to, " Geterdone ", in time for the 20 annual Damm gathering.

All the best,

Martin

[Wolffarmer]

Nice work. I do not think you will have to worry about meeting any trailer that resembles yours.

Randy

[Martinup]

Thanks Randy:

I am making changes and getting ideas from others people work and this is the place to find so many good ideas.

A few things to come are:
1) Raise the door height so I don't bonk my bean on the way out.
2) Put in a one piece fiberglass shower / toilet / sink
3) Put pontoons under it

Having lots of fun . . . head scratching and working out the details.

Martin