Michael's Teardrop Build

[messenger14]

Glass definitely needs a gentle curve, I used a 1/4" radius and it worked moderately well, 3/8" would be better. The problem is joints where you can't use a router, such as when two panels meet at 45 degrees. Those you just have to break the edge with a belt sander.

So correct me if I'm wrong... where my roof joins with my wall I will have to create a curve in the top of the 1/4" thick birch roof. Can I use a router with a round-over bit on the roof edge?

[Kharn]

That is how I did it, but my wall is 3/4" and roof 1/2" so I had all the thickness I could need.

[messenger14]

My walls will be 3/4" and my roof will more than likely be 1/4". I've been following Lance and Becky's Sagwagon TD build and I think she used a round-over router bit to curve the roof/wall joint.

I'm just wandering how much I could round a 1/4" think piece of plywood and if it would really make a huge difference doing so.

In the meantime the nice man in brown (UPS guy) delivered a nice little surprise for me yesterday from Frank Bear at Vintage Technologies:


20"x30" window






26"x32" door



The trim ring around the door and window seems a little flimsy but I'm hoping that after screwing it in it will prove me wrong and be stronger than it appears.

[messenger14]

So I have a question that's been floating around my head and need someone with an answer to solve it. It pertains to my exterior walls:

I have been debating on whether to use either 3/4" Birch plywood (which as I understand it is not ext. grade rated) or use 3/4" BCX pine which contains exterior grade glue.
The walls will be completely encapsulated in fiberglass/ resin then painted to protect the exterior so I would think even plywood not rated for ext. grade would work fine. I like the birch better as I will not be insulating the inside so will not need to skin internally, the birch looks much nicer than the pine which has a B-C face veneer.

My question is: can I use the birch safely since it will be fiberglassed?

[KCStudly]

Yes. Pay particular attention to sealing the edges, especially where they may be exposed along the bottom, at the galley hatch, and at any cuts (like your doors). Soak those areas well to form a complete seal. The way you attach the walls to your floor and/or trailer frame may also be a factor.

Sharon's MyAway, and Aggie79/Tom's Silver Beatle are both good builds to read. Not only were they both very diligent in their efforts to seal up for long life, there are both full of good build practices and smart techniques.

[kayakdlk]

My question is: can I use the birch safely since it will be fiberglassed?

Not sure what you mean by safely. The wood will be protected from the elements with epoxy and fiberglass cloth and paint and you can seal the interior with a stain and varnish or paint on the inside. I would suggest less than 3/4 plywood for the walls. I only used 1/8 plywood in my entire build for the walls, floor and roof. It was sandwiched between a 1x2 and 1x3 frame and foam in the voids

Also you will need at least a 1/4 round over by router or belt sander so the fiberglass cloth will lay over the edge.

Dan

[messenger14]

So to make a long story short... never trace your manufactured door/window trim ring onto your wall to make a cut! I tried this and needless to say it was a complete DISASTER!

Instead, do what this guy did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HRAyYU ... g&index=40

I've been watching this guy on youtube and he's got some pretty slick tricks.

I tried simply tracing the trim ring onto the wall and making my cut. The trim ring is made of a very flimsy aluminum that does not match exactly to the door/ window. When I place the window/ door into this opening it was way too large. There were gaps everywhere!

Needless to say I had to start completely over on two new walls. Thank you Home Depot for taking another $70 of my money!

[messenger14]

So it's been a little while since I've posted.

Here's what I was able to accomplished since my last post:
1) 5 coats of Raka Epoxy (barrier coating) on the side walls
2) Side walls have been fastened to the floor frame
3) 1"x2" pine spars attached (for these I simply ripped 2x4s). These were fastened with screws and the front spars were screwed and glued using Tite Bond III.
4) I installed a rear bulkhead frame which will be the frame for the rear wall. I decided to frame the bulkhead wall as this will add more support and rigidity to the side walls.

Here are some pics of progress thus far

[Metalhead]

Making good progress Messenger and looks good. I noticed you were from Mandeville. It's good to see some locals building as well. I live a little north of Covington .

I've recently started my build and also plan on doing the fiberglass exterior. I plan on doing a sandwich style with 1/4" ply outside and in with an internal frame of 1x3's and insulation. I was going to do some experiments on the "non-exterior glue" ply to see how well it held up.

What kind of ply did you end up with?

[messenger14]

Making good progress Messenger and looks good. I noticed you were from Mandeville. It's good to see some locals building as well. I live a little north of Covington .

I've recently started my build and also plan on doing the fiberglass exterior. I plan on doing a sandwich style with 1/4" ply outside and in with an internal frame of 1x3's and insulation. I was going to do some experiments on the "non-exterior glue" ply to see how well it held up.

What kind of ply did you end up with?

Metalhead,
I decided to go with the 3/4" BCX pine (Home Depot) as I knew this was exterior grade. I liked the birch better but the face veneer is extremely thin. Since I epoxied the side walls and will be epoxy/ fiberglassing the roof, pine will do.

I'm using Raka Epoxy and I really like it. I'm going to use 1/8" birch for the roof and will cover it in 6oz fiberglass cloth. This will add strength and rigidity to the roof.

I really like Lance and Becky's Sagwagon build. They did a great job with their epoxy, fiberglassing, and painting. Let me know if you have any other questions. I'm by no means an expert but we may be able to share tips/ tricks.

[messenger14]

Metalhead-

I don't know if you plan on fiberglassing the walls but barrier coating with epoxy (5 coats of just epoxy) gives a super smooth finish which will be great for painting. I found that the fiberglass cloth wasn't necessary on the walls as I was not looking for strength since I have 3/4". If you're using 1/4" walls or less I would definitely use fiberglass cloth (6oz or heavier) to give you a good amount of strength, rigidity, and abrasion resistance. Just a thought.

Also, what are your plans for your roof?

Will you be painting the shell?

[messenger14]

I love me some pocket holes!
Thanks Kreg Jig


The frame for the roof vent is done. I used pocket holes to secure the frame. The frame was then screwed to the side walls.





This is the Marinco male receptacle that will all me to have AC power in the galley and within the cabin.

[Metalhead]

This is the Marinco male receptacle that will all me to have AC power in the galley and within the cabin.

What size did you go with? 15amp or 30amp?

[messenger14]

I went with the 15amp. This will run into a surge protector (not really sure if that's the best way to do it but I should work for me and be the simplest.)

Not really sure why 30amp would be better. I'm only running maybe a coffee pot and toaster oven off it in the galley and maybe a laptop charger in the cabin.

I'm going to have DC power from a deep cycle marine battery which will power my vent fan, and 12V porch light and interior lights.


What's the benefit of using 30amp?

[Metalhead]

Metalhead-

I don't know if you plan on fiberglassing the walls but barrier coating with epoxy (5 coats of just epoxy) gives a super smooth finish which will be great for painting. I found that the fiberglass cloth wasn't necessary on the walls as I was not looking for strength since I have 3/4". If you're using 1/4" walls or less I would definitely use fiberglass cloth (6oz or heavier) to give you a good amount of strength, rigidity, and abrasion resistance. Just a thought.

Also, what are your plans for your roof?

Will you be painting the shell?

I plan on using the 1/8" for the roof with the fiberglass cloth/epoxy on top of that. I'm planning on checking to see if Poole lumber can get some 1/2" ply in 4x8 as well and if so may skip out on using the cloth on the sides- if that turns out to be more cost effective than the 1/4 and cloth coating- and only worry about using cloth on the seams.