DandiCamper Build Journal

[DandiCamper]

No work on TD today. Been on the internet now that ours is back up and can use the computer. Been looking into oilcloth. For making waterproof tarps and tablecloths. They use it on wood too. Canvas and other natural fibers. It is a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil. Some use turpentine in it as well to help it dry faster and thin it down. Flammable until it dries and "cures'.Anyone use this or made this? Might look into making some waterproof material, maybe some canopies...
Also saw somewhere on here I think a mixture to waterproof the wood on the teardrop. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks to all,
Kim

[KCStudly]

I like the idea of oil skins for a retro themed camper, or if you are into natural fibers instead of plastics, but there will be a weight penalty and they might be a bit more effort to handle compared to modern tarp materials.

The waterproofing is a mixture of oil based polyurethane clear coat and mineral spirits, commonly referred to as "the mix" in the foamie forum. Some will start with a 25/75 ratio of ploy/MS, and move up in 1/4 percent steps successively to full strength. In my experience so far, 1 or 2 coats of 50/50 then full strength seems to be adequate. Over stain I start right in at full strength.

[DandiCamper]

Dandi camper is wired and AC and DC power working. Today we put luan on roof. Decided to use a window so we cut a hole for it. Also fit the the fenders and installed the anchors. Coffee break and hopefully filling all those screw holes and sanding the edge of wall.

[DandiCamper]

I like the idea of oil skins for a retro themed camper, or if you are into natural fibers instead of plastics, but there will be a weight penalty and they might be a bit more effort to handle compared to modern tarp materials.

The waterproofing is a mixture of oil based polyurethane clear coat and mineral spirits, commonly referred to as "the mix" in the foamie forum. Some will start with a 25/75 ratio of ploy/MS, and move up in 1/4 percent steps successively to full strength. In my experience so far, 1 or 2 coats of 50/50 then full strength seems to be adequate. Over stain I start right in at full strength.

Thanks for the info, I just figured out how to reply with a quote.
Do I need to do this if I am using aluminum skin? My husband thinks no, I tend to think all the protection I can get is a good thing. We already closed in the spars without coating. So that is what it is...
Thanks to any and all who want to offer help here.
Thanks- Kim

[DandiCamper]

We did " the mix" and water does not sink in. When the roof luan went on we trimmed to get it in and ended up with one area that had a little gap between the wall and roof. The rest was pretty uniform and just a p thin space everywhere else. So we used an indoor/outdoor silicone caulk between the wall and roof luan. Also decided to put a strip of cotton fabric and tight-bond II over the wall and roof edge. So I've know that there was going to be an issue with the 4' wide aluminum for the roof because our floor is a full 4' wide with 3/4 inch walls on outside. Figured I would cross that bridge later and here I am. Should have trimmed the floor down! Most progress has stopped- a lot of looking and thinking and frustration. I posted in another thread and got great advice to run it across the top and seam it. I just don't like where the seams land. So I am still on the fence as to where I am going from here. But here are the pictures of me holding aluminum and trim to illustrate the issue. And a pic or two of the canvas/glue and the silicone seams. Nothing exciting that looks like progress... But its what is going on at the moment.
I did get my water pump in! Deciding where I will place it. I like it.

The galley water pump
The problems....

View of how trim will not overlap the aluminum enough. I'm visual, had to see that this would not work... It did run consistent from front to galley except that one gap area. That gap in on the driver side where the double framing for fan is. May have crammed that in there too tight. I was surprised it ran as straight as it did...

The canvas over the top with aluminum laid on. Aluminum is 3/4 inch from outside wall- both sides

Views of silicone in wide gap- looks bigger than it is in the closeup.


The silicone and the canvas/glue to help seal up the top


Anyone have any ideas to get me past this part? Hatch is ready to skin and hang once I get this part fixed.

[KCStudly]

Maybe you could add a rock guard or tongue box to the front that would let you start your regular skin further up, thus placing the lap seams in different places?

Another option would be to cut down a starter piece that puts the seams differently, rather than starting with a full sheet.

Despite some builds being able to pull it off, I am not a big fan of how lap seems might look, so I understand your desire to do the roof in one full sheet.

For larger sheets try calling commercial truck repair shops in your area (https://www.google.com/search?q=truck+repair+missouri&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8). Your avatar only says Missouri, but not the region so I couldn't narrow this down for you. They often will have large format white aluminum on a bulk roll, wide widths by as long as you need. They use it for skinning box trailers and vans. The good ones will take the burrs off the ends before rolling it up for you. Someone on here even said that they brought a big piece of paperboard with them when they got theirs, and had them rolled it up along with to help protect the finish.

[DandiCamper]

Thanks KC,
I found a supplier with 49'' x 10 foot aluminum, or a 5'x10' 2 1/2 hours from me for a reasonable price. There is a metal place closer that is looking to see if they can get me a piece.
I like the idea of rock guard on front and moving the breaks in aluminum. I am building a tongue box. I assumed I would skin the TD then build the tongue box and skin it. Should I build it on then skin around the box?
Making some progress finding some choices for wider metal so Have the option of going that route.
If you are close to Springfield Mo ( they don't ship the sheeting) and looking for aluminum sheet this is where I found the wider stuff-
http://msmfab.com/inventory/colored-aluminum/#
Is this what people are using as rock guard?
Aluminum Tread Brite
Gauges: .025, .045, .063, .080, .100, .125, .190 and .250
Sheet Sizes: Widths: 48” and 60”
Lengths: 96”, 120”, 144” and 192″

[KCStudly]

A lot of people do use diamond tread and it is a great look, if you ask me.

I will have a 3/4 inch radius on my wall edge and have access to a vertical break press, so will be able to do a formed radius. Unfortunately Diamond tread doesn't always form reliably (...it can stretch, scuff or flatten the diamonds making them look funny... ), so I will be using flat sheet stock.

If you are going to use flat pieces and trim the corners, diamond tread is great.

[DandiCamper]

Ok all, a lot has been done since I posted. We are putting on the bottom trim on the hatch and about to install it. We had another problem with the width of our TD, the hinge was too small, so we had to get another one. Hope we didn't mess the new one up! Everything went SO Smooth until the width issue caught up with us. So here is what has happened.
We came up with a solution for the roof aluminum, if it doesn't work we will be doing it over- but it looks like it is going to be ok. will be keeping a close eye on it!
We ran a strip of coil stock under the aluminum on the roof. It is tacked in a few places in the front. The fan installed holds aluminum in place very well. Then the putty tape and trim and caulk covers both the coil stock and aluminum. The idea that the coil stock is an extension of the aluminum, the aluminum ended up being under the trim a good 1/4 inch.



Sides held in place before trim installed

Fan installed and used clear silicone caulk, so the putty tape shows a little. Bought some white silicone after the fact..

a very close up view of roof edge

aluminum angle under the edge of 3/4 inch plywood where it hangs over the side of the trailer. adhesive used then a few screws underneath.

the end view adhesive coming out the end...

roof edge and flat trim around the bottom installed. It bent very easily and smooth. It just doesn't look like it will, but it does.

So didn't get pics of the hinge and the cuts we made, have also skinned the hatch and about done with the t molding of hatch. Our T molding is cut at 45 on bottom of hatch, and we did the best we could getting it to fit, As soon as we get it in I'll get some pics. Hope it works... been a little nerve wracking We will see soon.

[DandiCamper]

Hi all, been a while since I have been on. Working too much.... but we did finish the tear drop in time for our annual family camping trip. I still need to get some more photos but it turned out well and no leaking! We installed the trim molding and by the time it was screwed in place it covered the aluminum as much as it was supposed to. Don't know if the trim bending and flattening did it? but turned out fine. Our hatch had a problem, it laid flat for too long (while worrying over the trim/skin situation)and lost some of it's curve. It was also very wet here for months. We installed it and used ratchet straps to get it to bend and dry to fit again.Tightened straps over 2 week period, then installed the latches. Got it inspected and licensed... big sigh of relief! Installed the tow package on my car the night before the family camp out. That about wraps up the highlights of completing the camper.
Now the best part- using it
July 2015 I backed and towed a trailer for the first time ever. Took me 20 minutes to park it like I wanted it when i got to camp,but I did it. Took my 4 year old niece on her first camping trip, first time at a river. We slept like babies in the camper, nice and cool with fan on and windows open. It rained hard for one day so I was able to fit myself, and 4 kids and a fat wiener dog in there and we played board games and took a nap.
Spent next 3 weeks cleaning, drying then repacking teardrop in the garage after bringing a lot of wet and dirty gear home... made a nice place to take a nap and read my book. maybe that is why it took me 3 weekends to clean and repack
Took it to my mother in laws and slept in it... It was great, nice and cool. It was a hit, they couldn't believe we built it.
Just returned today from a 2 day camp with my sister,best friend, son, nieces and nephews. We trout fished, went on kayak trip, and ate good food.Taught my nephew how to cook fish. Scout...my nickname for 4 year old niece, and another niece and I slept cozy in the Dandi Camper. Good times. Hope to go again next week and do a river bank camp and another float trip.
Ill try to post some pics now! But first a big THANK YOU to everyone on here for all of your help along the way!

[rebapuck]

Using it the way it was meant to be used. Way to go.

[DandiCamper]

Thanks Judy. I got my video game addicted nephew on a kyak for the first time and he loved it. Also discovered a well insulated tear drop is pretty sound proof...Scout was screaming in there and all I could hear was a faint noise. LOL She got out and did the breakfast dishes and gave Dino and minnie mouse a bath afterwards so all was well. Picture of sign my cousins had made and gave to me...