First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

image.jpg (29.92 KiB) Viewed 3514 times

image.jpg (29.92 KiB) Viewed 3514 times

here are the pics of the start of the internal framing. I plan to use 1x2 for the rest of the skeleton. I had some of the 1x4 already and wanted to give the base for the walls extra support.

[S. Heisley]

You're on your way and we're watching!

[mariannf]

You're on your way and we're watching!

Hi Sharon, question for you and all: when framing how much frame material do I need for the wall sandwich? I have 3/4 ply exterior skin, 1x2 framing wood, and 3mm birch interior skin.Do I just need to attach framing 1x2s around the doors, windows, perimeter of walls and then top to bottom every couple of feet? Many different methods in the forum.
Thanks! Mariann

[S. Heisley]

You need framework for doors, windows, corners, and roof...anywhere that you are going to want to screw something in or together; plan to add a bit, only if needed, for a light fixture, etc. Andrew's Rimple design shows the minimum and probably best support: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... mp-int.pdf

We are very fortunate to have Andrew and all his designs here, on the forum. He knows what he is doing.

1x2's are good. IMO poplar 1x2's are the best. In my experience, the lighter color the wood, the less it will weigh while still giving you the strength you need. (I weighed every piece that I used.) 3/4 inch plywood is over-kill, especially in a sandwich build. If you haven't already purchased it, you can go with a lot thinner plywood and it will be easier to lift and deal with, too. I used 1/8 inch, sandwiched, and have been fine for 5 years, so far. Go to a reputable distributor/retailer for your plywood, not an orange or blue box store. Sometimes, the quality makes more of a difference than the thickness. I started out with box store plywood and quickly gave it away and got better and started over.

[mariannf]

You need framework for doors, windows, corners, and roof...anywhere that you are going to want to screw something in or together; plan to add a bit, only if needed, for a light fixture, etc. Andrew's Rimple design shows the minimum and probably best support: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... mp-int.pdf

We are very fortunate to have Andrew and all his designs here, on the forum. He knows what he is doing.

1x2's are good. IMO poplar 1x2's are the best. In my experience, the lighter color the wood, the less it will weigh while still giving you the strength you need. (I weighed every piece that I used.) 3/4 inch plywood is over-kill, especially in a sandwich build. If you haven't already purchased it, you can go with a lot thinner plywood and it will be easier to lift and deal with, too. I used 1/8 inch, sandwiched, and have been fine for 5 years, so far. Go to a reputable distributor/retailer for your plywood, not an orange or blue box store. Sometimes, the quality makes more of a difference than the thickness. I started out with box store plywood and quickly gave it away and got better and started over.

Thanks Sharon! I already have the 3/4 ply so done deal on that.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks Sharon! I already have the 3/4 ply so done deal on that.

Okay, that's not the end of the world. Your teardrop will be plenty strong! However, a 4x8'x1/8" sheet of plywood weighs about 9 lbs. Therefore, each equivalent 4x8'x3/4" sheet will weigh probably about 54 lbs; so, your teardrop will weigh maybe a hundred pounds more.

I see you are using 3mm for the roof. I couldn't get the good quality 1/8" plywood to curve enough for me and ended up using the cheaper, big box store stuff for my little lifting roof curve.

[mariannf]

Thanks Sharon! I already have the 3/4 ply so done deal on that.

Okay, that's not the end of the world. Your teardrop will be plenty strong! However, a 4x8'x1/8" sheet of plywood weighs about 9 lbs. Therefore, each equivalent 4x8'x3/4" sheet will weigh probably about 54 lbs; so, your teardrop will weigh maybe a hundred pounds more.

I see you are using 3mm for the roof. I couldn't get the good quality 1/8" plywood to curve enough for me and ended up using the cheaper, big box store stuff for my little lifting roof curve.

Hi Sharon, I am planning on putting aluminum over the 3mm ply exterior roof skin. I have seen some posts indicating you can attach the aluminum skin right to the spars without sub roof material. what do you think?
also I have a question, it turns out one of my 1x4s that are attached to the floor (see last few pics) and that my walls will be attached to, is not totally square, it leans out a bit at the top edge. what do you think should be don. If I push it from the top I can straighten it out, but I am not sure how t brace it in that position. or I can sand it down so the angle is 90 degrees.
any ideas appreciated.
Mariann

[dogscats]

With the ply wood will help with oil canning. Could go with thinner aluminum. Have you look at S&K in S S.SAC they used to have good prices .

[S. Heisley]

With the ply wood will help with oil canning. Could go with thinner aluminum. Have you look at S&K in S S.SAC they used to have good prices .

For those who may not know:

oil-canning(Noun)

A moderate deformation or buckling of sheet material, particularly common with flat sheet metal surfaces. Typically caused by uneven stresses at the fastening points. This terminology also refers to the popping sound made when pressure is applied to the deformed sheet forcing the deformation in the opposite direction.

[S. Heisley]

...also I have a question, it turns out one of my 1x4s that are attached to the floor (see last few pics) and that my walls will be attached to, is not totally square, it leans out a bit at the top edge. what do you think should be don. If I push it from the top I can straighten it out, but I am not sure how t brace it in that position. or I can sand it down so the angle is 90 degrees.
any ideas appreciated.
Mariann

I see the clamps on them. Does that mean that they are glued down?

[satch]

When it is cold/cool out and the inside of the cabin is warm and humid, yes. This is made worse in cool/cold temps when you only have the ventilation open to a minimum, trying to conserve heat, and moisture has more of a chance to build up.

My bigger tear's floor is insulated with sheet lino over it. The smaller tear's floor is not insulated but I have a sheet of plastic between the floor and mattress.
I too camp in central Cal ( I live here in Sac also ) Never had an issue with moisture

[mariannf]

...also I have a question, it turns out one of my 1x4s that are attached to the floor (see last few pics) and that my walls will be attached to, is not totally square, it leans out a bit at the top edge. what do you think should be don. If I push it from the top I can straighten it out, but I am not sure how t brace it in that position. or I can sand it down so the angle is 90 degrees.
any ideas appreciated.
Mariann

I see the clamps on them. Does that mean that they are glued down?

Hi Sharon yes they are glued. One of the 1x4s that runs the length of the frame seems slightly warped at one end. It leans out a bit. This runs for a couple of feet, the rest of the board is straight.

[KCStudly]

If you plan to stand the wall ply up next to the 1x4 and screw them together, it will probably pull everything together and true again... or at least an approximation. I would use PL Premium construction adhesive for this joint, as it is more forgiving of minor gaps and rough surfaces than regular wood glue.

[mariannf]

If you plan to stand the wall ply up next to the 1x4 and screw them together, it will probably pull everything together and true again... or at least an approximation. I would use PL Premium construction adhesive for this joint, as it is more forgiving of minor gaps and rough surfaces than regular wood glue.

Thanks KC! I was thinking that might be the case.

[S. Heisley]

If you plan to stand the wall ply up next to the 1x4 and screw them together, it will probably pull everything together and true again... or at least an approximation. I would use PL Premium construction adhesive for this joint, as it is more forgiving of minor gaps and rough surfaces than regular wood glue.

Thanks KC! I was thinking that might be the case.

3/4" plywood is almost strong enough to stand alone. In fact, some people use it, cut out, to build the sandwich framework for their teardrops. Therefore, depending upon how uneven it is, you could sand a wee bit off that 1x4 without hurting anything, if you feel you need to. But, don't get carried away. As KC stated, PL Premium construction adhesive is a really good and forgiving glue. From what you've said, the wood is still pliable and may simply follow the "suggestion" of the plywood, as KC said.