Northwestern Build - Updated 7/4/2010 - Done!

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Postby mikeschn » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:04 pm

wlivesey wrote:
mikeschn wrote:
wlivesey wrote: With just the refrigerator pulling and average of 3 amps, I should be good for 54 hours of boon docking without recharging the batteries at all.


I probably just missed it. Which fridge are you using?

Mike...


I'm using a Norcold DC0740.

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCTS/NorcoldIncRefrigerators/DE0740/tabid/696/Default.aspx


Good looking fridge... Is there a propane version of that available?

(I'm planning ahead for my next build!)

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby wlivesey » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:59 pm

They don't have anything that small for propane. They do have a 2.6 cubic foot model. I originally purchased a three way fridge for my build but it was just a little too big and properly venting the exhaust was a problem with the placement I chose. That's why I opted for the 12volt refrigerator. Now I'm having problems with venting the batteries I need to keep it running. Go figure... I just traded one problem for another.

Here is the smallest Norcold propane model.
http://www.thetford.com/HOME/Products/NorcoldRefrigeratorsHome/N260/tabid/207/Default.aspx
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Postby wlivesey » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:02 pm

aggie79 wrote: My wife has learned to "check on the laundry" when an episode breaks out in the garage. :oops:


Thats funny! My wife starts putting things away when I "go off". I think she starts cleaning up because just about anything within reach has a good chance of becoming a projectile. :x
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:06 pm

wlivesey wrote: just about anything within reach has a good chance of becoming a projectile. :x


Now that's funny... almost a scary thought...

Mike...
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Postby wlivesey » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:10 pm

I need some input on battery placement options. It seems that I don't have enough vertical clearance under the bed to properly vent my batteries. It looks like I need to move them to the tongue or, perhaps, somewhere else. I was planning to put my generator and my propane tank on the tongue but there isn't enough room for the generator, propane AND batteries. Something has got to get relocated.

I know there are some good ideas out there. Let's hear it!
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:14 pm

wlivesey wrote:I need some input on battery placement options. It seems that I don't have enough vertical clearance under the bed to properly vent my batteries. It looks like I need to move them to the tongue or, perhaps, somewhere else. I was planning to put my generator and my propane tank on the tongue but there isn't enough room for the generator, propane AND batteries. Something has got to get relocated.

I know there are some good ideas out there. Let's hear it!


Have you seen how Danny hangs his batteries near his axle?

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Postby wlivesey » Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:47 pm

I don't seem to have a cross member located in the right spot for that... I suppose I could weld up some brackets and bolt them to the floor. If I positioned them fairly close to the main frame rails I could run bolts all the way through the floor with large washers on either side to secure the brackets. :thinking:
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Postby wlivesey » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:23 am

Dang. The intake for my air conditioner is very close to where I would hang one of the batteries. I imagine that having the AC suck in battery gases is a bad thing... :thinking:
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Postby RAYVILLIAN » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:54 am

If that is the trailer wall just to the left of the box how about a 4" drain pipe at the top of the box out through the side of the trailer with a vent cover over it.

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Postby wlivesey » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:59 am

RAYVILLIAN wrote:If that is the trailer wall just to the left of the box how about a 4" drain pipe at the top of the box out through the side of the trailer with a vent cover over it.

Gary


That's front of the trailer... The framing, that the lid is laying against, is to support the bed. The battery box is only about an inch below the bed so there isn't enough room to add a vent out the top.

I might be able to build a recessed floor/battery tray. Of course, that would require cutting a large hole in my floor.
Last edited by wlivesey on Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby wlivesey » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:05 am

Maybe I could use one of these to vent the battery box I've already built???

:thinking:

http://spheralsolar.com/zephyrpowervent12volt.aspx

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Postby bobhenry » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:17 am

The idea is to not allow hydrogen to collect. I would think that by simply supplying (pushing) fresh air into the battery boxes with a small fan and providing a few vent holes in the battery box the air pressure would force the collected gasses out. This could be delivered with a rather small diameter hose. Or just do without the battery boxes all together. How many old 40 's- 50's cars and trucks had the battery under the passengers feet under the floorboard. Never heard of a hydrogen explosion on one of those.
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Postby wlivesey » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:28 am

bobhenry wrote:...Or just do without the battery boxes all together....


Do you mean that I could leave the batteries where they are, under the bed, but without a battery box at all?

My Casita was done this way. There were some small holes here and there in the compartment but they weren't exactly "vents". There was also a really old (fire hazard) power converter in the same compartment.
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Postby wlivesey » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am

After a little more research. I don't think I care for the power vent method. A power vent can fail for any number of reasons - that's not good.

I found this page that shows the right way to vent a battery box.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/hydrogenventing.php

This is the WRONG way:
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This the the RIGHT way: (I might be able to make this method work)
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From the website above: "Several good methods for constructing this vent system exist, we particularly like to see 1/2 inch copper pipes inside 1 inch pipe. Any highly conductive metal pipe will work it will transfer heat quickly. Galvanized, steel, and other pipes that spark when rubbed aren't as great. DO NOT USE THESE IN EARTHQUAKE ZONES. "
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Postby wlivesey » Sat Sep 05, 2009 4:14 pm

I've decided to punt and just put my batteries on the tongue for now. I'll revisit the battery situation after I get a couple of camping trips under by belt.

So, we started on the door trim/framing. I decided to use 1x1/16 aluminum angle for the door casement. It allows the door exterior to be level with the wall.
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The door casement also leads into the trim between the upper and lower walls. I plan on leaving the price tag. :)
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I bought 36'' stainless steel hinges from Rockler and cut them to length. They were only about $2 more than 18 inch hinges from HD. The HD hinges would have been to short and honestly, I've been less than impressed with the quality of HD hinges. The Rockler hinges are top notch.
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I bought some stainless screws from HD to attach the trim, but, now I'm thinking I should use the same screws I will use to attach the exterior aluminum. Any thoughts on what kind of screws I should use?
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