Regal Eagle Done! Video Tour 6/29/15

[pchast]

could it also be Tannin from the oak reacting to chlorine in the water?

[tony.latham]

It's not mold. Tannin in the oak reacts with the water and chemically changes the wood. Water turns oak black. You may be able to fix it with oxalic acid. I've never used it so you'd better google it. This'll help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTHiqtdZMMI

Tony

[Gunguy05]

It's not mold. Tannin in the oak reacts with the water and chemically changes the wood. Water turns oak black. You may be able to fix it with oxalic acid. I've never used it so you'd better google it. This'll help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTHiqtdZMMI

Tony

How do you know these things??

I tend to agree with you. AND I happen to know that bartenders friend, a cleaner, has oxalic acid in it. I think we have some, I will try that out and report back!

Just seemed WAY too fast for it to be mold/mildew.

Thanks AGAIN for the help Tony!

[Gunguy05]

It's not mold. Tannin in the oak reacts with the water and chemically changes the wood. Water turns oak black. You may be able to fix it with oxalic acid. I've never used it so you'd better google it. This'll help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTHiqtdZMMI

Tony

I have to say sir, you are a genius!

I took the piece of oak that I had thrown to the side, the darkest blotched area, and treated it. Sprinkled on a little barkeepers friend, and sponged on some water.

BAM! No scrubbing required, and it looks good as new in about 15-20 seconds.

Now, it's back to work.

Thanks for the insight.

Brian

[KCStudly]

I learned something new today, so now I can go home!

[Gunguy05]

Not much to post, other than this is the culmination of the last few days.

I have to say this is probably the most difficult thing to get "right" that we have encountered on the build. Just a lot of radii going on right here. Couple that with tannins in the oak, breaking boards, and other "stuff", this was a lot to come together.

But! I can say that I am happy with how it turned out, and can't wait to get a coat of varnish on it to see it all blend together. Need to put the two side trim boards as well to finish that part off.



It's coming together. Have a trip planning to a TearJerkers event at Tomoka State park in FL on Feb 6th... Gotta "get 'er done" now!

[KCStudly]

Wow!

[pchast]

You need to take that test piece that you used the acid on and test your finishes.....
It may be necessary to neutralize the acid to avoid ruining the finish. Please look for more
information from people that have used it before on line.

[Gunguy05]

Since my last post we have made quite a bit of progress on some of the details that we need to get things done.

First was to get the oak paneling finished off interior oak in the front and put the oak trim board up where the front and side meet.

The oak panels in the front are finished with spar varnish, and are an almost exact match for the rest of the oak inside. I am very please at how they tuned out.



After that the edges were coated with CPES, and all the rest of the body with a mix of 50/50 spar varnish and paint thinner. Seems to seal the wood pretty well. I know that some others would put glass and epoxy, while others wouldn't finish the wood at all. I figure this is a balance between the two, and will serves as somewhat of a barrier if a leak gets in somewhere.

Yesterday and today we worked on the aluminum on the sides, front, and tongue box. We had to stop with the front to get screws to be able to attach at the
seams (like Tom did on the silver beatle). So, we put a couple piece of the left overs from the door cutouts on the side of the tongue box.

[Sheddie]

Hi Brian,
That interior is looking beautiful, but then I am a sucker for oak
Frank

[Gunguy05]

Hi Brian,
That interior is looking beautiful, but then I am a sucker for oak
Frank

Thank you Frank. That was something we struggled with, but it turned out as well as I could have hoped for.

We worked a little more yesterday afternoon and attach the aluminum permanently. We decided to go with a screw/ washer seam as I like the look of it and clean lines that it has over a piece of moulding sticking up in the middle of the side.

We ran a bear, or 3, of sealant under each of the seams, then rolled each screw in the sealant before inserting them into the pre drilled hole.



The seam turned out exactly as I had hoped for. Nice and clean, very minimal divots around the screws where they cinch down against the aluminum.



We got all sides and the top back sheet on. Will work on the front top sheet tonight or tomorrow night. Gotta order trim pieces today!

[aggie79]

Very nice Brian! I love the oak interior panels. The skin looks awesome too.

[Gunguy05]

Very nice Brian! I love the oak interior panels. The skin looks awesome too.

Thanks Tom!

I fixed the photos that we broken above. Your seams really put me over the edge to do mine the same way. I just like the clean look of them. Looks like a plane!

I can wait to pull the blue tape off this bad boy!

[Gunguy05]

Since the last post we have been piddling on a bunch of different odds and ends. Seems like every time we go to work on a particular piece it's "hey, what about this over here?" Then we switch course and end up working on something else.

We got the front sheet of aluminum installed on the top (there is a seam in the middle of the top). I used a 4x6 piece, and a 5x6 piece to span the front and back of the top.

We put the same seam, as with the sides in that top piece. Turns out it seamed right behind the fan, so that helped to break things up a bit at the seam is in line with the rear flange of the fan housing. I didn't get any photos of that, but we used butyl tape on the fan and the skylight. I figured it would be easier to removed those in the future if we needed to with that rather than the OSI quad sealant we had used on the rest. Truth be known, either will be a $(&@W#& to remove, but hey whatever keeps the water out.

Here is a shot looking up from the inside. Had a bit of time getting the screws to "bite" through the trim ring into the track of the skylight, but we managed to make it work.



Once that was done, it was off to trim off the front piece of aluminum on the roof. I had done quite a bit of research on this, and even emailed a camp inn owner to try and figure out how they do theirs. We are using insert trim on the top roof, but bending it around the radius at the front would be diffiucult I think with the insert on the top, as it would be bending across the long leg of the moulding. SO....

Based off of photos from Java Jack, it looked like the front edge of the camp inn is rolled over the front and the capped with moulding of some sort (looks like inside corner or some sort of drip edge).

I didn't have anything like that, so we decided to make out own. I took a pice of 1/16x1" angle and trimmed off one side of the angle so that it would be about 1/2". That seemed like it would bend around the curve. We could have just used a flat piece of moulding over the rolled edge, but I thought the CI looked a lot better and wanted to give that a shot.

This is with the edge cut off, the metal shears worked wonders for this.



This is after a little pounding with the dead blow hammer. There are also some small relief cuts made around the corner to allow it to lie flat. Also, there is a layer of butyl tape underneath the rolled edge. Looks like it seals up pretty good.



This is with the trim piece temporarily installed. I will now remove all of the screws and put a good bead of OSI sealant behind the trim on top of the rolled edge. Also, i will seal in all of the screw holes with OSI sealant as well. There are a couple areas that I would like to see a little strighter/better aligned.. but overall it looks good (at least from the next campsite). AND If it doesn't leak I will consider it a success and move on!



That is all for now... there was a front window escapade involving trimlok gasket..... that's a long story though. I will explain if/when we have a solution worked out for that.. Long story short, we might only have 1 window in the front rather than 3. Unless I muster up the courage to cut another 2 holes in the aluminum.. We TRIED to put in the gasket for the front middle, but it kicked our butts...

[S. Heisley]

Brian, this is just an idea and I may be way off base; but, it looks to me like you're going to have to put some sort of wooden framework around each window, on the inside.

So, what I would try to do is, first, cut out that wood framework out of some fairly sturdy wall-matching wood or plywood, making it reasonably thick and wide so that it will be at least twice as wide as the depth of your window's lip area and will have stable room for a few screws. (Second explanation: It should be wide enough so that the inside of the framework curve will be in the shape of your outside window opening but the outside of the framework curve will overlap the edge of the inside wood wall far enough to be able to secure it with screws.) Once this has been cut to shape, steam or otherwise curve the framework to match the curve of the window opening. Next, put the weather stripping around the edge of the window "glass", instead of in the window opening. If that works, you should be able to push the lightly warmed window, with the weather stripping around it, into the opening and secure it in place with the wooden window framework. If this works, you should be able to undo the window framework and take out the window and weather strip so that you can add a beading of an RV sealant of your choice and then re-install it all. What do you think? Wouldn't that work?

If you want to try it, I think I would make a separate little prototype window/wall and try a small version on that first, instead of on your actual cabin, just to be on the safe side.