Kharn wrote:If the sub's 30amps or less, I'd take it from the PD4045 vs its own fused line. You might also want to consider a switch to turn it on/off, I bet it has a non-zero draw when there is no radio input. 900 watts would be 75 amps (or more, as no amp is 100% efficient) for a 12v system, so you'll really have to detune it considerably to meet your goal.
You shouldn't be a betting man John. It doesnt need a separate on/off switch because it will be tied into the remote wire of the head unit, just like 99% of amplifiers these days. Its a cheap sub/amp combo, so I'm assuming only 75% efficiency. I was reading more about it, and the amp itself has a 15A fuse, but the 8GA positive wire will need AT LEAST a 40A fuse. As you've done the math, 75A is a lot, and much more than the PD4045 can handle, which is why I have it as a standalone connection. However, as I said, I won't be turning it up so I doubt I'll typically be pulling more than 100W from it (but the option to do so would be nice). It also has a wired remote level dial, and the head unit has built in level control too, so the level control won't be an issue.
Kharn wrote:The frosting looks pretty good, I'd try to scratch it to get an idea of hardness and see if you can apply it during this stage of construction or if you might want to wait until you're almost done to avoid recoating.
The acrylic windows will be one of the last things installed, just like the doors and fan. Everything needs to be painted inside and out first. I did however need to cut them to size so that they can be installed later. They'll be set aside until the end. Its just nice to know that the acetone and other chemicals in the spray frosting does not eat away and distort the surface of the acrylic. Had it done that, I would need to look for another solution, which is why I tested it now, and not wait until the last minute.