StandUpGuy's TTT (Not-a-RV)

[bdosborn]

The PEX would be good in that I would have a metal to metal connection. Still it is an increased expense with the crimping tool and all.

That's the easy part about sharkbite, no tools needed as it just pushes together.

ruce

[chartle]

The PEX would be good in that I would have a metal to metal connection. Still it is an increased expense with the crimping tool and all.

Never used the sharkbite ones in the above pic but they don't use a tool. You just push the pipe into the fitting.

[StandUpGuy]

I looked into the sharkbite fittings and could not justify the added expense because I am doing this on a budget. I did take everyones advice and put in flexible connections to my hot water tank for ease of removal of the tank. The rest I did in PVC. I have a cold water connection for the hot water tank, for the shower, for the sink and down under the trailer headed to the toilet. At the low point of the plumbing under the trailer I am installing a brass cap to drain the system. Here is a photo of the dry fit of the plumbing. Yes it is a rabbit warren of pipe. Really it a lot going on in a 12" x 12" x18" area.


By justoneman at 2011-11-12

[StandUpGuy]

The shower I am retro fitting the same faucet set as the sink has ( bargain bin buy). Here is the photo of the faucet in the shower in place, with the spout removed.


By justoneman at 2011-11-12

[Cliffmeister2000]

By justoneman at 2011-11-12

Looks good to me! What are you using to anchor the tank? You wouldn't want it to be able to fly when it's full of water.

[StandUpGuy]

The tank came with a wall mount bracket so it is actually mounted to the wall and resting on the floor at the same time. the unit has two openings on the back that slide down on the two prongs of the wall mount. Its quite secure. It should be very easy to remove, just undo the flexible lines to it and lift the unit up and out. I think I am going to make removeable panels rather than a cabinet door. I want to have access to it in the front and the side pretty much like you see it in the photo. It is a tight fit and I want to make the removal of the tank with water in it as easy as possible as it will be pretty heavy.

[myoung]

I too have a water tank with that two-prong attachment system. However, mine is located on the front wall of the trailer where there is much less bouncing. I notice that the bouncing to the rear of the axle is much, much greater.

Isn't your water tank behind the axle? Only time will tell if the bouncing is significant there. If so, it should be a simple matter to put a wooden cleat above the heater to hold it in place more securely.

[StandUpGuy]

I too have a water tank with that two-prong attachment system. However, mine is located on the front wall of the trailer where there is much less bouncing. I notice that the bouncing to the rear of the axle is much, much greater.

Isn't your water tank behind the axle? Only time will tell if the bouncing is significant there. If so, it should be a simple matter to put a wooden cleat above the heater to hold it in place more securely.

My tank is directly over my axle. I was wondering about the bouncing and my fall back plan is a cinched strap around the unit. What I am most concerned about is the ease of removing the tank.If I had only a narrow door I would really be wrestling to remove it. This is the one thing that is a pain I am expecting in the mini tank unit.

Your tank is a 6 gallon one right? Do you have any idea of how many minutes of hot water that supplies? Mine is ony 4 gallons so I am thinking a warm shower for 3 minutes might be the best I can expect.



Here is my floor plan though the dinnette configuration is slightly different.

By justoneman at 2011-06-06

[myoung]

Actually, my water heater is the tiny 2.5 gallon version. I don't use it for showers and only intend it for washing dishes and perhaps a bit of myself in the sink.

So far I have only dry camped without electricity for the water heater. Next month, I'll try the water heater for the first time at a rally along the Colorado River.

I picked up a simple pump that fits in the chuck of an electric drill that I will use to suck the water out of the tank after a trip. Don't want to leave water standing in the tank for months at a time. I have a siphon with a bulb to get the flow starting, but the pump should be much more efficient.

[john curtis]

Hi everyone.I used the shark bite fittings in my bathroom reno they are great. no crimping tool needed and the best part is if you need to shorten or change a peice of the pex you can remove the fitting and put it back on. Its that easy.John

[StandUpGuy]

Yes they are really awesome but they were about 8 times the cost of PVC, and I am on a tight budget. Ultimately if water flows through the pipes and comes out the faucet without leaking, then I am a happy camper.

[StandUpGuy]

I picked up a simple pump that fits in the chuck of an electric drill that I will use to suck the water out of the tank after a trip. Don't want to leave water standing in the tank for months at a time. I have a siphon with a bulb to get the flow starting, but the pump should be much more efficient.

How will that work? Will you connect it to say the hot water outlet side and then undo the cold water inlet for the air break and then the pump will draw the water completly out? Have you tried this yet?

[myoung]

I picked up a simple pump that fits in the chuck of an electric drill that I will use to suck the water out of the tank after a trip. Don't want to leave water standing in the tank for months at a time. I have a siphon with a bulb to get the flow starting, but the pump should be much more efficient.

How will that work? Will you connect it to say the hot water outlet side and then undo the cold water inlet for the air break and then the pump will draw the water completly out? Have you tried this yet?

I'll use the same siphon tube that I insert in the outlet. I have a 90-degree valve on the inlet side to stop water flow into the tank when dry camping and using the fresh water tank and pump. The air break isn't an issue because the siphon tube is has an outside diameter smaller than the inside diameter of the outlet so air leaks around it

[StandUpGuy]

I picked up a simple pump that fits in the chuck of an electric drill that I will use to suck the water out of the tank after a trip. Don't want to leave water standing in the tank for months at a time. I have a siphon with a bulb to get the flow starting, but the pump should be much more efficient.

How will that work? Will you connect it to say the hot water outlet side and then undo the cold water inlet for the air break and then the pump will draw the water completly out? Have you tried this yet?

I'll use the same siphon tube that I insert in the outlet. I have a 90-degree valve on the inlet side to stop water flow into the tank when dry camping and using the fresh water tank and pump. The air break isn't an issue because the siphon tube is has an outside diameter smaller than the inside diameter of the outlet so air leaks around it

That would be a pretty small tube then like an aquarium tube I guess. That would be a lot easier than hoisting out the tank with water and turning it upside down and holding it for an eternity while the water drains out. I am guessing my filled 4 gal tank would weigh like 70 lbs.

[myoung]

Water weighs about 8.3 pounds per gallon so 4 gallons would be approximately 33 pounds. The empty water heater must be less, so I think you are over estimating the weight.