4-Day Weekender - Toddler bed!

[Kharn]

So we've decided we like the pennant design, but we can't agree on where the tip of the pennant should be located, either centered on the forward panel (#1) or on the rear panel (#2). Where do you think we should put it?

Centered on where.jpg (163.66 KiB) Viewed 2056 times

[S. Heisley]

It's hard to say because we can't see the entire teardrop side at one time.
Scrolling up and down and back and forth on the screen, it doesn't seem like there's a lot of difference; but, I could be wrong.

[Kharn]

Good point, for those that can't see the whole thing, here's a smaller version:

Centered on where 2.jpg (59.67 KiB) Viewed 2050 times

Just click on the picture to make the picture full size and eliminate the scroll bars.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks!
I vote for the top one. (#1)

[KCStudly]

I like the bottom, #2.

[pchast]

2

[capnTelescope]

tie

[Kharn]

So my center brake light arrived and I quickly installed it on the hatch:

20140902 installing light bar small.jpg (142.86 KiB) Viewed 2024 times

Looks great, only problem? I automatically assumed the wiring nub on the back was centered on the body of the light. Nope, its 1/2" off center.

20140902 oops small.jpg (140.77 KiB) Viewed 2024 times

So a little fiberglass body filler to fix, I dammed it in place with some painter's tape to preserve the good hole.

20140902 filler small.jpg (112.58 KiB) Viewed 2024 times

[lthomas987]

Looks great, only problem? I automatically assumed the wiring nub on the back was centered on the body of the light. Nope, its 1/2" off center.

20140902 oops small.jpg

Thanks for posting that. I would have never thought to check!

[Kharn]

Rain is predicted for this Friday and Saturday, so I have to get stuff to a stage where I don't need the table saw or a ton of space. At least Sunday is supposed to be clear, since I only had a bit of time today.

So first I prepared the electrical trim rings for paint, they're sanded and dehorned and just waiting for something else to need primer.

20140903 electrical rings small.jpg (145.76 KiB) Viewed 1938 times

I brushed the AC door since I want to put the T-molding on the edges this weekend. It is partially dry in this pic, should be the darker green when done.

20140903 ac door small.jpg (127.66 KiB) Viewed 1938 times

And I started working on the tongue box's inner lip. I have to make up the two panels that go at the curved section and then fill all the gaps with body filler (I decided it will be easier to slap in some body filler than do two compound cuts on my miter saw).

20140903 tongue box lip small.jpg (122.76 KiB) Viewed 1938 times

[Kharn]

So 7 weeks from today until departure on our first camping trip.

Here's the AC door, mitering the soft t-molding was quite an adventure, I spent a lot of time getting acquainted with my file collection. I can't decide if I should paint the molding and hinge to match the door? The pennant side design will wrap around the front of the trailer (oops, I forgot to mention that to the wife and she wanted to know why the AC door was green when I brought it up from the basement paint studio ).

20140905 AC door small.jpg (132.12 KiB) Viewed 1897 times

Since the AC door would allow direct access to the cabin (the AC drawer can be removed from the exterior), I went with draw latches that have padlock loops. But how do you protect the skin from the padlocks bouncing around? I spent over an hour searching for the second draw latch this morning, I'd used one to test the panel gap back when I was cutting the door but I couldn't find its twin. I do have to pick up a few round-headed stainless screws, I'd assumed the latches were countersunk when I ordered a bunch of flat-heads.

I also cut the interior ceiling panels, but I don't have any brass screws in a suitable size and they're a little too large to work with solo (without risking a gouge or scratch in the wall paint), so they'll have to wait a bit until I work on them some more.

[S. Heisley]

Since the AC door would allow direct access to the cabin (the AC drawer can be removed from the exterior), I went with draw latches that have padlock loops. But how do you protect the skin from the padlocks bouncing around? I spent over an hour searching for the second draw latch this morning, I'd used one to test the panel gap back when I was cutting the door but I couldn't find its twin. I do have to pick up a few round-headed stainless screws, I'd assumed the latches were countersunk when I ordered a bunch of flat-heads.

Get keyed latches. The padlocks could bang up your trailer.

[Kharn]

I considered Southco V7's like on my hatch latches, but the problem is that the AC door doesn't necessarily sit in the same plane as the cabin, and the gap to be spanned (over half the t-molding), plus the height of the t-molding above the panel surface wasn't conductive to them. We may just lock it when we're parked and leave the locks off for travel.

[S. Heisley]

McMaster-Carr Draw Latches #6139A26 come with different coupling solutions/parts so you can use them in almost any situation. I think mine came with four different hook style parts.



They cost a little more but they are worth it. There are probably others out there. It just takes a bit of Internet research to find them. (I wanted stainless steel and that costs more.)

[Kharn]

So another day with storms predicted later, so I'm stuck inside.
I primered the bare spot on the cabin exterior, the inside face of the AC compartment, and two other small pieces for the AC.

I also jumped in to the tongue box lid with both feet, surprisingly enough, it seems to have worked on the first try.

20140906 tongue box open small.jpg (66.29 KiB) Viewed 1825 times

20140906 tongue box closed small.jpg (53.12 KiB) Viewed 1825 times

I have to trim off ~1/8" from the two sides because the jig saw kerf is too small for a gasket. I wish I had a scroll saw, that'd make trimming the round ends much easier. The center piece was cut with the circular saw and will work just fine as it is.