#4

[clamlamp]

Tony
Great work! Makes me want to build another TD!

[tony.latham]

Tony
Great work! Makes me want to build another TD!

Hey, thanks... but she ain't done yet.

T

[tony.latham]

Primed.



It's as if suddenly, there's a white beast that landed in the shop.

Rust-Oleum "Marine Wood and Fiberglass Primer". And of course this brought out the fact that there are three little dings that will need fixing before the Monstaliner.

Tony

[retep]

Tony,your posts are always so informativeand well explained. You need to author a how to build a teardrop guide. Your pics always say it all followed by a explaination.

Did you brush or spray the primer?

Thanks Peter

[tony.latham]

Hey, thanks!

The roller worked great.

Cranking on drawers while the primer dries.

Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

Primed.



It's as if suddenly, there's a white beast that landed in the shop.

Rust-Oleum "Marine Wood and Fiberglass Primer". And of course this brought out the fact that there are three little dings that will need fixing before the Monstaliner.

Tony

Looks good Tony!

We'll plan on using the same product (after making sure we wash off any amine blush, this time!)

Did you route a round-over between the walls and roof, and use the fiberglass tape?

Tom

[Tom&Shelly]

Tony,your posts are always so informativeand well explained. You need to author a how to build a teardrop guide. Your pics always say it all followed by a explaination.

Did you brush or spray the primer?

Thanks Peter

2nd on the idea that you should write a guide Tony.

Let me know if you want my list of examples of "mistakes and things to avoid"

Tom

[tony.latham]

Let me know if you want my list of examples of "mistakes and things to avoid"

I wouldn't have to turn towards creative writing fer that. Fer sure.

T

[tony.latham]

Fixing dings and making cabinets.

I dithered on whether to prime before the Monstaliner. The fiberglass was sanded so why the primer? In the end, I made the decision. What's another $50 with a tear build, anywho?

The immediate positive feedback was the primer showed all the bad spots that I thought I'd found and fixed.



So while the spot filler was curing I went back to drawers.



If you were sitting back thinking I was going to hand-cut dovetails, you've got me wrong. I used Jay Bate's Youtube how-to on drawer building to guide me. Here's the vid:



I like 'em. Quick and strong.

The other thing I'm really liking are the drawer catches I found. The solve the issue of driving down the road with your drawers sliding back and forth. They lock.



Here's how they look unlocked:



And locked:



I found them on Amazon, of course, and they are called, "RV Cabinet Push Button Latch Replacement Keyless Entry Cupboard Lock." Quite the mouthful. You can find them on eBay a little cheaper with another mouthful: "Cabinet Lock Keyless Push Button Cabinet Latch RV Marine Boat Cupboard"



Tony

[OP827]

I support the primer decision. It is money well spent as it makes for better finish. Looks great! I suggest checking out Michael's tips for my build finish coating.

[KTM_Guy]

Nice drawer pull/locks. I need to figure a way to lock my drawers. We were at the North Rim last week and a few times while looking in the side mirror I see the trailer wheels at least a foot off the ground. Makes for a mess in the galley. Inside the cabin stays good. I built using the Euro style to build my cabinets so no face-frame for your locks to catch on.

Which size stove did you go with? Looks like the 22". I'm kicking myself now for not getting the 22", we went with the 18". I had different plans when I ordered and needed the smaller one, but now have room for the bigger one. I have thought about selling it and getting a 22" but don't know if it is worth it now.

Todd

[Squigie]

Nice drawer pull/locks. I need to figure a way to lock my drawers. We were at the North Rim last week and a few times while looking in the side mirror I see the trailer wheels at least a foot off the ground. Makes for a mess in the galley. Inside the cabin stays good. I built using the Euro style to build my cabinets so no face-frame for your locks to catch on.

These will work on all types of cabinets and drawers, as long as the face is thick enough to take a screw and there's enough clearance between the frame (or face) and the drawer: https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Magnetic-Locking-System/dp/B004GCJMLG
I've been using them for about 7 years in the house ... even though the kids don't really need them any more ... and 3 or 4 years in the tent trailer.
Test before use, as I have gotten a few "sticky" ones that needed to break in before installation. Otherwise, I might not have been able to get the drawer/cabinet open again. (Probably 4-5 out of 60+ that were installed between this house, the previous house, and the tent trailer.)

Just don't lose the magnet!
I always keep at least half a dozen 1/2"x1/2"x3/16" rare earth magnets** on hand in my trailers and camping gear, for the times when a strong magnet is just what you need for -whatever-. (Generally stuck to a metal table leg, the trailer frame, my propane stoves, etc.) And I have tested to make sure they will work with those latches through even the thickest drawer face. So, I'm not worried about it.
But it is something to consider. If you don't have a spare magnet capable of operating the latches, you CANNOT lose the one intended for the job.

There are other brands. Some may be better. Some are probably garbage. But the 'Safety 1st' brand is what I have extended experience with.

**(It is beneficial to me that my brother gets the magnets for free. They're part of a complex packaging system for products that he works with, which require holding steel bars in place through glass and wood panels during shipping. Once he unpacks the item(s), the magnets are intended to be discarded. But who throws away perfectly good magnets capable of drawing blood!? You can, however, purchase suitable magnets for a reasonable price. I bought some 6mm 'puck' magnets a few months back for less than the cost of materials for the 3D-printed parts they were going into.)

[tony.latham]

Which size stove did you go with? I'm kicking myself now for not getting the 22", we went with the 18". I had different plans when I ordered and needed the smaller one, but now have room for the bigger one. I have thought about selling it and getting a 22" but don't know if it is worth it now.

Todd

I worked the galley out in Sketchup last winter and had to go with the 18" to make it work with the hard-plumbed propane line that will be behind it. I kept measuring our current Primus stove on our April trip to make sure this smaller stove would work. The main question was whether or not our Coghlan's griddle will fit and the other pots we use. It will work fine.

Even with all of this pre-planning, I had to set it out 1 1/4" from the countertop when closed so that it had clearance for the lid to open ––this is the model with the windscreen.

Here's what it looks like (with two un-varnished drawers):



I've got a sheet of galvanized steel gluing to the countertop at the moment.



Tony

[tony.latham]

Bright and shiny.





Tony

[Spotman]

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