4-Day Weekender - Toddler bed!

[Kharn]

Wiring, what fun.

First off, I made two mistakes while ordering that actually turned out to be very much in my favor. First, I thought I'd ordered standard 3M scotchlok taps, like this:

Instead, I ended up with this style, T-Taps:

I also thought I'd ordered 0.250" female disconnects but I ended up with a 250 pack of males. The good thing is the male disconnects connect to the T-Tap to give you a reusable version of the first tap, plus it let me do all of the lights' crimps on my saw rather than over my head in the tear (and then being unable to easily remove them).

The only downside is I've run out of 18-22awg female disconnects now, so I'm stuck waiting for the mailman to bring another pack.

Here's what the inside of the tear currently looks like, the left side is the driver's side switch plate ring. There are 13 conductors in there to control all of the lights in the interior (including a 3-way switch for the main lights) and turn on/off the 12v power station on the driver's side. Hopefully once I have all the connectors in place I can squeeze everything into the box...

20141003 int wiring small.jpg (95.77 KiB) Viewed 2685 times

The grey wire is 5-conductor 20awg, the biggest load is a total of 0.96 amp when the four general lights are running. I definitely wouldn't use that wire if I weren't exclusively using LEDs.

Here's the tongue box. This is going to be super fun to deal with when it's time to tie everything down.

20141004 tongue mess small.jpg (91.85 KiB) Viewed 2685 times

I still need to buy a negative rail, the black terminal strip is one of two for power coming out of the PD4045, the grey strip is for the trailer lights/wiring.

And here are the interior lights with their disconnects crimped on.

20141004 pigtails small.jpg (144.5 KiB) Viewed 2685 times

Four of them (12 LEDs each) will be on the 3-way switch circuit, the other two (9 LEDs each) are individually controlled from the driver and curb sides respectively and dimmed in the first roof panel for reading lights. The dimmer having two conductors in and two conductors out really messed with my wiring plans and I had to improvise but it worked out in the end. The two smallest lights are the single LED units for the bunk lights at the foot of the bed. They each have an incredibly small wire coming off of them, I won't be able to use a disconnect on them so I have to think about how I want to handle them.

[Kharn]

So I was right with my prediction of problems for the switch boxes.
The current boxes are only 1.25" deep, and a 12v switch plus a quick disconnect bottom out inside of them without even having a wire coming out the back.

I made up two new boxes that are 2" deep and will use an electrical box with the back cut off so they had to be set up for Kreg screws into the walls, the other boxes are held in place by screws from the electrical box to the ring, and screws from the back of the box into the wall.

Here are the two new rings vs one of the original size.

20141005 new ring small.jpg (154.83 KiB) Viewed 2648 times

Hopefully I'll be able to work most of the wires out the hole of the old box and into the new boxes without having to cut off too many connectors...

I also attached one battery cage today and played around with the battery cable and the trailer harness wire, but I won't attach those until I have the tongue box perfectly situated and bolted down.

[Kharn]

So my telescoping prop rod works.

20141010 prop rod small.jpg (129.09 KiB) Viewed 2600 times

Right now it's put together with a 10-24 bolt at each end, I'll upgrade it to 5/16" bolts later this weekend. We wanted to make sure it would work before committing to the hole sizes. We actually ended up with about 8" of overlap between the two pieces, and I've been convinced to put a carriage bolt through the hatch to make absolutely sure the hatch-mounted side doesn't come loose (a 6x6" piece of 3/4" plywood and two pieces of 1.5" aluminum angle). Luckily the bolt will be hidden behind the license plate bracket. The snap button engages as it is opened and then there's enough slop in the snap button to extend the rod about another 1/16" as the pin is inserted, making sure the pin is taking the pressure rather than the snap.

We also put the galley drawers in place.

20141010 Galley drawers small.jpg (97.6 KiB) Viewed 2600 times

It's raining off and on, so I covered the front of the tear with a tarp. I need to decide how I want to do a latch or barrel bolt for the oven drawer and if I want latches on the other two drawers. I still need to find suitable drawer organizers and we may reconsider our drawer pulls. My wife still hasn't decided which Formica pattern she wants.

[KCStudly]

Looking good!

Have you camped in it yet? (A mere prodding suggestion, 'cuz it looks like you are pretty much there! )

[Kharn]

I've got a long list of stuff to get done this weekend. We're hitting the road on Friday for a Tearjerkers event.

The tongue box is now bolted in place properly, 4 of the ceiling panels are in place, and the roof vent is screwed down.

[pchast]

Sounds campable now.

[working on it]

So my telescoping prop rod works.

The attachment 20141010 prop rod small.jpg is no longer available

Right now it's put together with a 10-24 bolt at each end, I'll upgrade it to 5/16" bolts later this weekend. We wanted to make sure it would work before committing to the hole sizes. We actually ended up with about 8" of overlap between the two pieces, and I've been convinced to put a carriage bolt through the hatch to make absolutely sure the hatch-mounted side doesn't come loose (a 6x6" piece of 3/4" plywood and two pieces of 1.5" aluminum angle). Luckily the bolt will be hidden behind the license plate bracket. The snap button engages as it is opened and then there's enough slop in the snap button to extend the rod about another 1/16" as the pin is inserted, making sure the pin is taking the pressure rather than the snap....

I like your telescoping prop rod!; could you share the specifics on it (capacity in lbs, extended/compressed length, where you got it!)? I've grown tired of using my twin hatch props (awkward to lift, assemble, vice-versa), also because the wife can't do it by herself-unaided-, and on every camp-out, I have to open/close it multiple times. I never could find a telescoping prop rod capable of handling the weight of my hatch (48 lbs), or long enough (I open it to 105 degrees, for head clearance). I still might use the linear actuator I've found,

18 Stroke 150lb Force Linear Actuator.jpg (38.7 KiB) Viewed 2520 times

to be mounted on an off-center inclined base (on the shelf), between the water jug holder-A/C drainpan and the extended-run fuel tank.

INCLINED ACTUATOR RAMP.jpg (91.62 KiB) Viewed 2520 times

But your centrally-mounted prop rod looks like it would also work for me! Simple and useful, versus my need to retrofit due to my apparent failure to achieve enhanced mechanical function without over-elaboration.

[Kharn]

So today I mainly worked on the electrical system.
The hatch is now wired with all the trailer lights and the galley light installed, but I have to attach the wires to the hatch, right now they're just a dangling mess. The side marker lights and porch lights are installed, but I still need to wire up the marker lights tomorrow.

I replaced the switch boxes and got all the connectors wired up so now they should be functional when I put power to them, the 12v/USB power stations are also installed and wired to their switches.

20141011 switch box small.jpg (71.88 KiB) Viewed 2519 times

I also put the final big ceiling panel in place. I want to check out the dimmers when they're in operation before I put the smaller panels in. I also need to install the trim ring for the vent fan.

20141011 ceiling panels small.jpg (98.37 KiB) Viewed 2519 times

Finally, I tried to put the driver's side RV door on, since that side is within 4" of a wall when the camper is in the garage.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I had a horrible time putting the door on. I tried putting the screws in without pilot drilling, that didn't work very well and I broke one screw. So I took the door off, put it on towels on the floor of the garage and pilot drilled the door for the screws (breaking 2 drill bits in the process, and scratching the door and the trim ring when they broke). I put the door back in place and tried again, only to break more screws. I managed to pull out some of the broken screws and replace them (good thing I have enough screws for two doors), but two are broken off below the edge of the door channel and the other has lifted the trim ring from the wall.

20141011 door small.jpg (86.06 KiB) Viewed 2519 times

Has anyone had similar problems with the commercial doors? I'm thinking I need to get better screws, these look like #8 3/4" so I think I'll pick up a pack of stainless screws in that size, I wish Home Depot carried them in a Torx head but I'll have to live with phillips. Am I also supposed to take off the clip that holds the two ends of the trim ring together? It's not letting the ring sit flat against the wall and distorting it.

[Kharn]

So my telescoping prop rod works.

20141010 prop rod small.jpg

Right now it's put together with a 10-24 bolt at each end, I'll upgrade it to 5/16" bolts later this weekend. We wanted to make sure it would work before committing to the hole sizes. We actually ended up with about 8" of overlap between the two pieces, and I've been convinced to put a carriage bolt through the hatch to make absolutely sure the hatch-mounted side doesn't come loose (a 6x6" piece of 3/4" plywood and two pieces of 1.5" aluminum angle). Luckily the bolt will be hidden behind the license plate bracket. The snap button engages as it is opened and then there's enough slop in the snap button to extend the rod about another 1/16" as the pin is inserted, making sure the pin is taking the pressure rather than the snap....

I like your telescoping prop rod!; could you share the specifics on it (capacity in lbs, extended/compressed length, where you got it!)? I've grown tired of using my twin hatch props (awkward to lift, assemble, vice-versa), also because the wife can't do it by herself-unaided-, and on every camp-out, I have to open/close it multiple times. I never could find a telescoping prop rod capable of handling the weight of my hatch (48 lbs), or long enough (I open it to 105 degrees, for head clearance). I still might use the linear actuator I've found,

18 Stroke 150lb Force Linear Actuator.jpg

to be mounted on an off-center inclined base (on the shelf), between the water jug holder-A/C drainpan and the extended-run fuel tank.

INCLINED ACTUATOR RAMP.jpg

But your centrally-mounted prop rod looks like it would also work for me! Simple and useful, versus my need to retrofit due to my apparent failure to achieve enhanced mechanical function without over-elaboration.

McMaster: 4' of 1471T53, 4' of 1471T51, 1 pack 94282A130, a single 9293A137, 1' of 8982K17 to make the hatch receiver. Home Depot: two 5/16" bolts, 1/4" carriage bolt, washers, nuts. See the CAD drawing earlier for how I sized it, but when I built it I made the outer tube as long as possible in the compressed position, I also used a 6x6x3/4" piece of plywood on the hatch to spread the force out and the 1/4" carriage bolt will go through the hatch to make sure it will stay in place since I can't use too long of screws to hold the plywood panel to the hatch. I haven't gone to the 5/16" bolts yet, but when I do, two nuts and two washers will sandwich the wood divider to make sure the weight of the hatch doesn't crush the wood, so you have to space the hatch receiver for that extra nut and washer. By the numbers, my hatch is around 35lb, so I don't know how it will work for yours. I'm able to open my hatch one-handed.

[working on it]

I must've skipped right past your Cad drawing and prop rod plan...it looks like store-bought in the photo! Did you consider spring-loading the rod? As is, my hatch requires a lot of effort to raise up, switch hands, then continue raising up to 7.5 feet overhead (at the base/handle of the hatch) before inserting my props. A spring-assist would be welcomed; that's why I've been telling everybody "touring" my trailer, of my eventual plan to install an actuator. I applaud your home-made solution, but the extra weight, and extended range of travel required to raise my hatch, may preclude the manual operation of the hatch for me...I'm getting old!

[capnTelescope]

Has anyone had similar problems with the commercial doors?

Yes. Mine look to be the same as yours. The driver's side was no problem, once I got it pilot drilled. The other side was . The interior trim ring seemed undersize to the door by just 1/8" -- 1/4", as far as where the holes were drilled. I broke a drill bit while trying to elongate the hole, but no broken screws yet. I put it aside and went on to something else.

I kinda ass-ume that the pilot drill is necessary, since I turned into a swearing puddle of sweat trying to do the first door without.

Am I also supposed to take off the clip that holds the two ends of the trim ring together? It's not letting the ring sit flat against the wall and distorting it.

If that's what it takes to get 'er done, then I would say yes. Mine don't look that easy to remove. I'm going the route of elongating the holes so everything fits. I'll report back.

Your build is looking good, Kharn. It looks like you're a week ahead of me , as far as crunch time goes. My first gathering is two weeks away. And counting.

[noseoil]

Make sure the pilot holes in the metal aren't too tight on the screw, they should slip right through. Use new sharp bits. Pre-drill the wood frame as well for the holes (drill bit the size of the body or slightly smaller, only the threads need to bite into the wood to tighten). Chin up buddy, just keep plugging away at it. Black magic marker will fix the scratches in the frame for now! Make haste carefully.

[Kharn]

I'm not sure what wood frame you mean? The RV doors use an interior trim ring to pull the door solidly against the exterior wall for the seal, none of the screws interact with the wall itself.

[noseoil]

Oops, my bad, thought it fastened to the wall first, then the trim ring slipped inside the door trim....

[Kharn]

So today was a lot of work.
First I dressed all the wires in the forward cabinets, using a small tack hammer was frustratingly slow and the claw hammer was a real pain in the butt in the confined space. Getting one hand in to hold the staple and one the hammer, plus a space so I could see was an exercise in contortion-ism.

20141012 lower cab wiring small.jpg (67.62 KiB) Viewed 2465 times

Then I put in the tow harness and the battery cable, neither of them was particularly fun to route through the exterior box mounted under the tongue box with the jacket intact. I also dressed all the tongue box 12v wires and re-did the labels from the previous painter's tape.

20141012 tongue wiring small.jpg (132.84 KiB) Viewed 2465 times

The left terminal block is for the PD4045, the center is the ground bar and the right is the trailer wiring. Some of the trailer terminals jumper to the next spot because I had a total of four wires needing the running light signal (one for the rear sides, two for front sides and one for the hatch's lights) and some of the wires were too small to utilize the ground bar.
Next I made a hold-down bar for the battery, working in the ~3/8" gaps on each side of the battery was a real joy, but the holes in the angle steel I used made finding suitable hook points easy.

20141012 battery bar small.jpg (80.39 KiB) Viewed 2465 times