CapeBuild Build Journal

[Capebuild]

4.20.22

John, if you ever lay down contact cemented sheets again and have premature contact use either a spatula to cut the glue or a squirt bottle of lacquer thinner.
Then refresh that spot with more glue and go at again.

.
Thanks for the tips, Danny. I installed the rear roll pan today and followed your "method and direction"...... was a bit of a challenge getting the aluminum to curve out.....but (I think, I hope) it came out okay... left some clamps on overnight and will report back with photos and the outcome tomorrow.

Yesterday installed the pop open vents. I had gotten this TrimLok neoprene molding which worked out pretty well (the black ring around the vent). Also worked on the hatch aluminum trim. Will look to install the hurricane hinge tomorrow.
John

[Capebuild]

4.22.22

Working on the hatch, looking to get that installed. Big milestone, in my life, seems. Today my wife and I carried the hatch into the house in order to create the curved window that will be in the hatch. Cranked the oven up to 300° to soften the acrylic and drape it over the hatch. This will be the window in the hatch. Curved 2 pieces of aluminum over the window opening on hatch since the radius of the window is slightly larger than radius of the hatch to fit the gasket. I wanted to do all this prior to installing the hatch on the trailer so I wouldn't need to remove said hatch, since I'm using the hatch as the drape form. I had built an oven with a Weber grill for the softening the acrylic for the large front window.... but thought I'd use our kitchen oven for this task. The acrylic just fit in our turkey oven. Once I get the hatch door installed, I'll cut the newly curved acrylic to size and see how it fits with the TrimLok gasket... which will be a good sign to see how the large formed acrylic will fit with said Trimlok gasket.

John

[TimC]

Looks great. You are a talented builder!

[bdosborn]

Awesome!
Bruce

[Capebuild]

Thanks Tim and Bruce!!

Well... big day today! Got the hatch installed along with the lighting that goes on the hatch exterior. Good feeling. I can see I'll need some kind of draw latch on each side at the bottom of the hatch to pull it in a bit against the galley wall to get a complete seal. I'm sure there will be some tinkering with the sealing of the hatch.....and need to get a couple of gas struts to keep the hatch open. I had wanted to see what the dead weight of the hatch would be (60 #s) once it was installed before I ordered the struts.

John

[Mikel46516]

That is one good-looking camper. Nice work, John.

[bdosborn]

I can see I'll need some kind of draw latch on each side at the bottom of the hatch to pull it in a bit against the galley wall to get a complete seal.

I'd do it sooner than later. My hatch sprang back a little in an amazingly short amount of time...

Bruce

[JasenC]

Getting close, it's truly looking great.

[Capebuild]

Thanks for the comments Mikel and Jasen.
And thanks Bruce for your thought on the hatch and the spring back issue. I'm trying to find some sort of draw latch that will work for the situation.

John

[bdosborn]

I used an over center draw latch on mine and it worked great. Something like this:



https://www.mcmaster.com/over-center-latches/adjustable-grip-draw-latches-9/


Bruce

[halfdome, Danny]

John, these work great for seasonal changes in your hatch.
Danny
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=779

[Capebuild]

Thanks Danny and Bruce for the links. I had seen a latch on Mcmaster I had liked but they were out of stock. It was similar to
the product Danny posted.... ordered a set of those.

John

[KCStudly]

I got those same adjustable locking draw latches from McMaster and they're pretty nice.

Couple of things to look out for:

1. The threads on the adjustment feature of mine were pretty rough, and being stainless steel, they wanted to gaul. First thing I did was disassemble, chase threads and lubricate.

2. Before drilling for mounting the catch tab, adjust the draw hook into the latch so that the catch tab screws are hidden under the latch handle when locked. There is enough adjustment that if you don't screw it in enough the catch tab screws can be left out in the open, defeating the security of the locking feature (if not hidden under the locked handle, a thief could just unscrew the catch tab freeing the latch to open).

Hope that makes sense.

[Onajourney]

This is coming along spectacularly. I have been very excited watching this build and have been eagerly awaiting you installing the windows which is SO soon I can't stand it.. I am going with your design on mine which has had not much progress other than me continuing research and tweaking design since finishing the frame. I have completed a bunch unrelated projects that give me the green light on my build. Great to to see yours coming along so impressively.

[Capebuild]

I got those same adjustable locking draw latches from McMaster and they're pretty nice.

Couple of things to look out for:

Thank you for the tips, KCStudly. They sound good and I'll do a some prep work on latches (once I receive them and prior to install. I still want to add some additional seals so I think I'll install the seals first .... then the latches... thanks

have been eagerly awaiting you installing the windows

Thanks for your comments, Onajourney. You and me both.... waiting to start work on the windows. I've got them ready for install just want to finish up a few other things.

But today I did install the fixed curved window that is located in the hatch. This is the acrylic that I showed in a post or 2 back where I softened the plastic up in my kitchen oven and draped the softened acrylic over the form (the hatch). That was very exciting to see that come together and not as much of a PITA as I thought it was going to be. I'll see what the experience will be with the larger front window.... but all in all... the hatch window went relatively aggravation free. Picts attached. I had made a tool that helped to coerce the gasket's flange over the window. Spraying soapy water prior to install also helped. The gasket I used has an integral self locking feature. I can't see setting that locking feature on the gasket without the tool shown below. The first picture Is shown prior the locking gasket closed up. The double second pictures shows the job completed with the locking gasket folded into position. Once the locking gasket is set it really sets the gasket nice and tight up against the aluminum.

Started to install some exterior lighting, also. The "porch lights" installed relatively easily. The marker lights.... not so much and need to dittle around with them and make some rubber gaskets to place between them and the aluminum siding.... so the aluminum siding is not grounded to the lights. These lights were made for Airstreams where I guess the aluminum siding acts as a ground. Probably could have chosen better on the lights, but I liked the way they looked

John