225's teardrop

[225]

I posted this thread on Weldingweb.com, the super duper welding forum. Of course they yelled about some of my welds, and trailer strength (which I plan to beef up), but pointed out something I didn't know.

Here is the current axle/spring setup, which is wrong.



The right way:



Axle should be on top the spring, and the rear shackle should be sitting more far forward.

Lots of trailer work to do. Hopefully next time I'm off, I can finish the trailer and get the floor done and sides cut out.

[225]

Getting close to going home again. Not real excited about fixing the leaf spring issue, but hey, gotta do it.

Also I forgot to order a tongue jack. So I got one from R&P carriages off fleabay.



Then the wheel I ordered for it was metal... Don't like. So I got one with a plastic wheel:



I also ordered a spare trailer wheel. Same as the 2 I have already.

And I'm thinking about buying this as a spare tire mount. What do you guys think?

[noseoil]

Not to be argumentative, but I see lots of axle setups with the spring on top. Not sure why they would say that. Perhaps others with more experience in building might chime in on this one. Here's one online I looked at.

[TheDrip]

Springs can be above or below. The real issue is if you have a cambered axle (slight curve), it should be frowning with the center point high, when empty. Loaded the axle will straighten out. A lot of times if your axle comes with spring pads already on it, they will be setup for the spring to be underneath the axle. If you flip it upside down to put the axle under the spring, then your camber is in the wrong direction.

This is usually not an issue on axles as light as those used for teardrops, we're talking 5000+ lbs rated axles for the most part.

[Redneck Teepee]

I'll debate that your shackles are installed wrong all day long, If you had a tandem axle installed, then yes, as it could pivot enough to bring the shackle forward to far, but not with a single axle with the stationary front eye and just slightly forward of the top hole as you have done. This position as yours is in will take the spring bounce out of your trailer simply because as the spring flex's and get's longer it will push the load up making in the end result a less bouncy ride. There is nothing wrong with your installation.








Here is my spring install on my tear and it pulls flawlessly

[Redneck Teepee]

I went back to your picture you posted and held a straight edge to the computer screen (not entirely accurate but a general idea) and your datum point as shown in my previous post puts your shackle at damn near 90 degrees. Just a freindly FYI. Change it if you like...but you are good to go like it sits.

[Adventure Time]

Springs can be above or below. The real issue is if you have a cambered axle (slight curve), it should be frowning with the center point high, when empty. Loaded the axle will straighten out. A lot of times if your axle comes with spring pads already on it, they will be setup for the spring to be underneath the axle. If you flip it upside down to put the axle under the spring, then your camber is in the wrong direction.

This is usually not an issue on axles as light as those used for teardrops, we're talking 5000+ lbs rated axles for the most part.

I think different axles may be different for different sized trailers. The instructions on a leaf spring I just installed said it could go either way, above the leaf spring or below. As I understand it the wheels should be slightly toed in and slightly in the position of a V(positive camber). The friction pulling forward causes the toe in to become parallel and the weight down causes the V to become more parallel. If you start out parallel then road friction causes toe-out and the trailer wants to wander around. Camber up or down is not a big deal either way.
I built my frame with as light of a gage steel as they sold in 3"x 2" dimension. Initially I wanted to have separate spindles but decided to use a preassembled tortion axle so I would have less chance of messing something up. Also my frame is such a light gage I couldn't rely on the side beams to handle the torque independent spindles would produce.

photo (7).JPG (131.79 KiB) Viewed 1876 times

I can stand in the middle of this frame and pick it up.
\BTW I also first installed the axle below on the leaf spring trailer and was shocked at how high it was. So I took a look back at the instructions. The axle does flip upside down to accomplish this. Which makes me believe it is not prebent in any direction. For reference the frame in the picture is upside down. It is to the 4'6"x 8' build I am doing right now.

[225]

I went back to your picture you posted and held a straight edge to the computer screen (not entirely accurate but a general idea) and your datum point as shown in my previous post puts your shackle at damn near 90 degrees. Just a freindly FYI. Change it if you like...but you are good to go like it sits.

Thanks for the reply.

I think I will try the springs as they are. But the axle I'm still flipping because the trailer sits too high.

I still have to cap off the tongue, add a few cross bars, and figure out how I'm going to mount the stabilizer jacks.

[225]

Long time since update. Been busy partying and traveling.


I flipped the axle and widened it 4". Added cross members, stabilizer jacks, and painted that beech. Then put the deck on. The bottom needs coating. Might do it tomorrow if I have time.

[noseoil]

Nice! Looks much better now than it did before with the axle flipped to the top of the springs, just about level now. Just an FYI, I used Henry's white elastomeric roof coating on the bottom side of my deck. Figure if it can take the sun, rain & hail here in Arizona, the bottom of a trailer without any UV light all year round should be good. I'm sure it'll hold up to some road grime & gravel from time to time. Pressure wash to clean it up & it's good to go again. Touch-up with a brush if I have to and it will be good as new again.

Really enjoying the progress I'm seeing on your build, should be a good one when it's done.

[225]

Thanks!

How long did it take for the roof coating to dry? I was wondering if I was going to use bed liner again.

But the roof coating seems like a better option.

[noseoil]

If it's a sunny day, it dries pretty quickly. I did 3 coats, just to be sure. Took 2 days to do it. I bought a gallon and there's still plenty left. I might go up on the roof to see if there are any bad spots on the house, but I did a coating this year already, so I don't think there will be any problems up top. I just use a thick nap roller (9") and lay it on nice & thick. After 3 coats, it has a really nice surface.

I'm also going to use some left over pipe wrap tape on top of the frame when I get ready to drop the deck in place. Figure a layer of thick plastic can't hurt. I have some left over from the propane line I put under the frame, so why not use it up?

[225]

I'm taking off the entire month of December in hopes of finishing the camper. I'm waiting on a "stargazer" window to come in next week. And not worried about ordering the other door, yet.

Other than wood, and the aluminum need to skin the trailer, everything else is waiting on me when I get off this stupid boat next week.

The list:

One 6 foot hurricane hinge. Used for the galley hatch.



2 fancy LED porch lights:



Taillights:



Power inlet:



Power center. It charges, converts 100v to 12v and also a 12v fuse panel and 110v breaker panel:



2 of each:




I bought one of these on my last camper for the rear hatch. Bright as heck. So I got 2 for the galley and 2 for the inside:




Lots more progress pics coming next week.

[225]

Since I'm delayed on moving until after Mardi Gras, I figured I would finish the trailer.

Interior carpet:




Side view:



Interior cabinets:



Hole for A/C:



Putting the galley together:




Another side view:

[Vedette]

Hang in there man!! It is coming along!
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi