Lifting roof XPStream - making improvements

[OP827]

Here is very rough and quick mockup of the kitchen with "new to me" hydroflame furnace, 3-way fridge, sink and to-be-changed cooktop( from 3 to 2 burner for more space). The furnace seems to be very solidly built, it uses heavy gauge metal for combustion chamber. I like the chrome grill, will need to clean and buff it though, but it is in a good shape. The fridge face yellow panel is easy replaceable and could be changed to match color/texture theme in the trailer(still working on it ). There will be drawers above the furnace and grocery drawer under fridge. Sink cabinet will have a door. There will be two portable containers under the sink - one for fresh water and other is for grey water. I will do some plumbing to allow for direct drain to ground or outside container for the places that allow that. There will be some shelf under the sink as well. See some pictures with this mockup below, the face frame will require some more modifications to much this furnace and overall arrangement, but I am getting closer to finalize the kitchen..


The furnace model is HYDRO FLAME BRC-10A and I found installation manual online that I will follow -http://www.winds.ca/1980Vandura/images/Hydro%20Flame%20BRC-10.pdf

Apparently I can add a fan to make it work more efficiently.. I am thinking of homemade electronic fan controls to precisely control inside room temperature with it, but that is when I get my electronic thermostat controls in mail and get some computer fan to do some experiments.

[OP827]

And this is how my trailer build looks in transport mode with a tow vehicle outside

[OP827]

And I just ordered this 2 burner cooktop stove to complete my purchase of appliances. - https://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-YSNHT600-Burner-Cooktop/dp/B01D42QH2U

[OP827]

While working on my build interior furniture, I need a good idea of dinette fold-down table design that will convert into a bed in case I have more than two people to sleep in there. I saw some smart design ideas on how to do that folding/lowering function, but mostly forgot where they were. Now I could go with that single folding leg, but I thought I'd ask here, maybe there is a nicer idea out there.
Anyone cares to share the ideas here? I will also ask in general section and maybe cargo conversions.
Thanks.
Oleg

[OP827]

This is the picture of the above mentioned table idea, that would require some rv hardware:


It is OK, but I wanted to make something more interesting than that

[Atomic77]

Hey Oleg... Did your Flame King come in yet?

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[OP827]

Not yet Michael, but it should any day now, UPS may be a little behind. I just fitted my furnace inside the future kitchen, I keep working in.
Above furnace compartment I plan on kitchen "organizer that will have everything needed there for cooking, it is about 11" high and 21" deep, should be enough space for all the stuff. I plan on full depth sliders on that. Left will be a door with access to my portable water tanks and some small shelf maybe. Righ top will be the fridge, right bottom will be a drawer for slow and non-perishable food like pasta, cans, and some fruits and veggies. I hope it should go quicker, as I finalized the interior layout. But I do need that cooktop for final measurements and propane line routing.

Michael, how are you running your propane lines?

My plan is run 3/8" flared cooper tubing from bottle regulator to the kitchen under the fridge outside lower vent and then put two Ts for 3 appliances, each appliance will have shutoff valve. They will be accessible from outside as the fridge controls are outside too under that vent. I will seal that compartment to be airtight separated from inside. There will be no gas valves inside the trailer interior and no rubber hoses too, only 3/8 coooper tubing flared and connected to each appliance after shutoff valves. I hope it explains it. I also will protect the cooper tubing run with rubber hose cover, wherever it is exposed to outside.

Cheers!

[Atomic77]

Wow really looking great! You and I are on a similar pace. My plan for LP is basically the same except I will have a main shut off under the sink for a quick shut off if neecessary.

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[OP827]

Thanks Michael. Where are you getting your 3/8" copper tubing, valves and fittings from?

[Atomic77]

Thanks Michael. Where are you getting your 3/8" copper tubing, valves and fittings from?

Most everything I'm using is "Watts" brand. Carrie works for a large industrial contractor and gets them from one of her suppliers, although "Watts" brand is huge and supplies most all the home improvement stores. Here is a picture of a header that i built so I will be able to shut off any one appliance individually. There will also be a main shut off under the sink.

[OP827]

Michael, I did not know that it was possible to make flare connections this short. There seems to be no space for flare nut to slide back to allow for flare tool.. But I am new to this, will be doing my first flare connections on this build. So I assume that you sourced the tubing by Carrie as well. I found that "type K" copper tubing is not such a common off-shelf product in my area. General purpose type is everywhere, but not the type K. Valve and fittings seem easier to find though.

[OP827]

Michael, I found the answer to my own question. Those short flare connections are manufactured by Watts. I can buy them locally. The only problem now for me is "type k" or propane suitable tubing source.
https://www.lowes.ca/brass-fittings/watts-a-164-38-in-flare-fitting_g1197786.html?searchTerm=flare-fitting

[Atomic77]

Yep there you go. And yes, I source everything through Carrie

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[OP827]

Michael, I got my new stove and got type K 3/8" copper tubing and all valves and fittings, then bought tubing bender, flaring tool, deburring tool, so I am all set, BUT I am having second thoughts on two points:

1. Where the best to locate the fittings and valves. First option was as I mentioned in above posts to put the valves and fittings under the fridge lower vent, I have some space there, but then I will have to penetrate the bottom(which is OK) AND the side wall of that compartment to get to appliances inside the trailer. The space under the vent is of-course semi-open to outside, but still the side penetrations have to be located low to avoid the fridge heating element, so that could be an issue..
Other option would be locate all valves and fittings under the trailer, but then I do not like accessing them and exposing them to road elements.
I could not find actual pictures on this forum how people did copper install and valves under their trailers. Only found black steel pipe pics.

2. How best to protect copper tubing that I plan to run under the trailer. Some people I read used garden hose, but then how do you inspect the condition of tubing then? Some said they saw that RV routinely use plastic wire harness split cover since it is easy to remove.

Have you finalized your propane system, and if you have, could you share? I feel I need some help deciding here.

Thanks,
Oleg

[OP827]

There is not much I can find online. Found a typical diagram:


That tells me that typically all fittings except one flare to the appliance are under the floor, ie outside?

I think I need to consult with a specialist at this point. In the meatime, need to find something else to do with the build, like gluing up cabinets in place and cutting wall openings for the furnace and fridge.