New build in Maine started

[toypusher]

I was thinking about you building by yourself and just had to log back on and write a few more words.

When you get ready to cover that front vertical curve with plywood, it would be best if you had a second person there to help you, even if you have to hire a local teenager or something...especially since you are planning on building a woody-style teardrop.

Here's my story of woe: I made the mistake of putting my front plywood on by myself, in an enclosed garage, in 90 degree heat and I said the 'S' word so many times that it is a wonder that my garage didn't start to smell like a methane factory! I thought it would be easy; but, the combination of the weight of the plywood and the slippery glue made the plywood not want to stay anywhere near in place and it would actually pull out of the brads. I ended up using a few small wire nails to get it started and then supplemented with the brads. But, the plywood even pulled out of the first couple nails. Finally, I made certain that everything I needed was within the arms reach while I continuously leaned on the panel and hammered in a few more brads. Once I could get it to stay, I was able to add some ratchet straps and that helped a lot. Then, I injected a little extra glue along the edges and that helped even more. Luckily for me, I plan to paint my TTT; so, I put a nice layer of fiberglass thread reinforced epoxy filler over the area where the ply pulled away from the brads and nails and followed up with fiberglass tape. ...It wasn't pretty when I was doing it and neither was I!

...Hopefully, yours will go better. It looks like you've had more experience with wood projects. But, still, I would opt for that warm body with a second pair of hands.

Just a note on the plywood front. I used the ratchet straps and prebent my plywood for about 4 days before attempting to put it up. I stayed mostly bent when I took the straps off and then was easy to handle and did not try to spring back alot. Just a the way I did it!

[S. Heisley]

toypusher wrote:

Just a note on the plywood front. I used the ratchet straps and prebent my plywood for about 4 days before attempting to put it up. I stayed mostly bent when I took the straps off and then was easy to handle and did not try to spring back alot. Just a the way I did it!

I curled mine but I guess I didn't curl it enough....drove me a bit nuts.

[sschevel]

Well I did pre-bend the roof with some straps and then 2 days later I realized that I bent them the wrong way so I had to re-bend. Delays let them stay bent for over a week and when it came time to get them on, they went on very easy. Easy enough that I did them by myself..........

Then I cut the galley lid off and started work on the galley and doors. I would like it done well at least ready for camp in 3 weeks or so......cross fingers.

Outside;






Open galley;


Galley done minus 2 small drawers;


Galley power;

[S. Heisley]

You're a better man than I. (TeeHee!) It's turning out very nice.

PS. It looks like you could camp right in your yard! (...Except during black fly season) ...Pretty, with all those trees.

[toypusher]

Really looking good!

[aggie79]

Looking great!

Like Sharon said, your property feels like you're already in a national forest.

Speaking from experience, press on with the build, but if you miss an outing or two (or even a whole year's worth) don't rush things too much.

[sschevel]

Well we are buried in snow and more snow.

I put up one of those portable garages in the back yard and moved the tear there so the wife could get her truck back in the garage while the bikes get the other side.

At this point the fiberglass is playing hard with me. I ordered a 2 gallon set online and it was not what I was used to using when I built my canoe. This stuff is much thinner and has a very slow set time.

The panel I choose to cover the tear was easy to get bent and on but being that it is not real wood and the wood look is more of a paper covering, the fiber glass does not stick to it. I can not scuff it up or I remove the look of it. I put on the fiber glass and it pools back together leaving some tiny "holes". After several layers the holes are filled so I have a fiber glass coat on the top but if you look close you can see the "holes" or dips in the glass.

It will look fine down the road, or perhaps from several feet back but up close it is not so pretty. I call it a learning thing and moved forward with it. I felt that once I get a layer down, I might be able to scuff the dip and get some more to bond there, but I like having an entire layer across it.

So to finish;
I have to fiberglass the galley lid
Fiberglass the doors a few more times
Cut, mount, and wire the taillights
Mount the running lights
Mount the over door porch lights
Find a queen mattress
Find an old army stretcher, cut it down to fit across the tear and build mounts to hang the stretcher for a bunk bed. (We have a 5 year old)
Hang the doors and galley lid
Seal down / mount the fan and light set.
Hang 2 mirrors I found at a yard sale inside the cabin.
Install the door latches (my most concerning point left, the rest is easy)

Oh, and go camping!


Next month I may move the doors and hatch into the basement and start getting glass down on them. I go to the garage and sand them, and back to the basement to glass them.

We had some carpet put down the other day and there was a chunk just the right size to lay on the floor of the tear so that is down there, Now wondering if I should cut the carpet where the door to the drop box is or just struggle with it when I need in there.........

[S. Heisley]

We had some carpet put down the other day and there was a chunk just the right size to lay on the floor of the tear so that is down there, Now wondering if I should cut the carpet where the door to the drop box is or just struggle with it when I need in there.........

That's one of those questions that you're going to have to answer for yourself. However, to get into that box, you're going to have to roll back the mattress anyway; so.....

[sschevel]

Well the drop box came a bit later in the build design. I had been thinking of building a tear for a few years and had gone so far as to sketch out in detain the tear at least 3 times over the years.
The box came after I had the floor down but before sealing the floor. Since the box has the battery, shore power connector, inverter for "off shore" power and a small area that I plan to use for power cords, the only reason to get into the box is to switch between shore or no shore and get out the shore power cord.

[sschevel]

Well after what seems to be a very long winter! I have moved the tear from temp storage back into the garage.

Having some trouble with the fiberglass as it is very thin and likes to pool back up instead of laying down. I took a torch to it while in the pot and stirred it for several minutes with the heat. Still looked thin but laid down much nicer than before.

My glass job will look good from the 30/30 rule (30 feet or 30 mph) and is more important for keeping water out of the wood.

The last two days;
Glassed the hatch (still needs 1 or two more)
Finished the tail lights, plate lite, hatch interior light, and sheeted the inside of the hatch. Just waiting for the glue to setup on the sheeting so I can hit it again with glass today.

Found a queen mattress.

Getting closer!

Guy

[sschevel]

Well things are coming along. Doors with windows on, galley hatch on, lights in/on/done.





I have discovered that my hatch has sprung slightly and I was not confident about using a single latch in the center of the hatch so I have put a pair of these latches on.



Then there is my drop box with battery, charger, inverter, and wiring hub for the trailer.



LED tail lights



Course the details take some time and it is likely that a teardrop is never really finished, but I think a few hours and we can give it a test run to a campsite!

Guy

[sschevel]

First day on the road and every stop had someone asking questions, making comments, and surprised at what I had behind the truck.

[Jst83]

I'm curious what wood your tops done in
Looks nice

[sschevel]

The top was a wonderful looking "new cedar" panel which ended up being more like a very thin perhaps paper sticker of the "cedar" placed onto the fiber board.

I like the look but discovered that fiberglass simply refused to adhere, stick, or soak into the top. For the flat level areas it was not much of a problem as the resin would set on the level surface and harden nearly flat. The curves proved more difficult.

I'll give it the 30/30 rule where at 30 feet or 30+ mph, it will look great! Upon closer inspection you can see and feel the uneven layer of resin that coats the tear.

The sides worked out much better as the plywood soaked the resin in and even now after 6-7 light coats, I can still spot some tiny areas that the resin still soaks into the wood more than being on the surface of the wood.

Again the 30/30 look is worth it. And looks much better than going with just fiber board with its dull color and no patterns.

[Jst83]

I new I liked it for a reason that's the paneling I just put in my camper about the closest paneling I've found to a real wood look