So I have ordered some more doors and mentioned our concerns about closing issues and drip rail screw alignment. The sales guy forwarded it to manufacturing and they called me to discuss. Very impressive. We had a good long talk and came up with a couple of things they are going to do. Great customer service, they want to practice continuous improvement, think Dr Deming!Tom&Shelly wrote:ricky herbold wrote:Graniterich wrote:I had the same problem, redrilled holes, but was disappointing. How are yours closing? The last ones I got you have to lean your shoulder into to close all the way, barely doable from the inside. Had to remove striker plate. Any issues on your end?
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I had the same problem. I took the strike plates off and flattened them getting rid of the small offsets. Now they shut so nice. I used a vice with smoothie face jaws to squeeze them flat.
Thank you Ricky. Shelly wasn't entirely happy with the way the doors shut, so we may try that.
Tom
Graniterich wrote:So I have ordered some more doors and mentioned our concerns about closing issues and drip rail screw alignment. The sales guy forwarded it to manufacturing and they called me to discuss. Very impressive. We had a good long talk and came up with a couple of things they are going to do. Great customer service, they want to practice continuous improvement, think Dr Deming!Tom&Shelly wrote:ricky herbold wrote:Graniterich wrote:I had the same problem, redrilled holes, but was disappointing. How are yours closing? The last ones I got you have to lean your shoulder into to close all the way, barely doable from the inside. Had to remove striker plate. Any issues on your end?
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I had the same problem. I took the strike plates off and flattened them getting rid of the small offsets. Now they shut so nice. I used a vice with smoothie face jaws to squeeze them flat.
Thank you Ricky. Shelly wasn't entirely happy with the way the doors shut, so we may try that.
Tom
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Shelly also plans to look for some sort of door bumpers that we can glue to the doors.
bdosborn wrote:A little off topic but when I made the sliding bed for my trailer, the slats were hard to pull and notchy feeling. I rubbed beeswax on the slides and it made a huge difference, now they pull out smoothly. You might try beeswax on your sliding cabinet doors to smooth up the action. It was a tip in the teardrop manual I used from Kuffle Creek.
Bruce
tony.latham wrote:Looking good as usual.Shelly also plans to look for some sort of door bumpers that we can glue to the doors.
Take a look at those bumpers I mention in my book ––the chapter on doors.
I have bolted those same Jeep bumpers to factory doors and they work great.
Tony
KCStudly wrote:I made an add on fence for my table saw. Basically a piece of ply clamped onto the fence. That lets me control the clearance at the bottom and can also be used as a consumable to bury the blade into for edging (trimming thickness less than blade thickness). By adding a short extra piece along the bottom you can also rip smaller thinner pieces of trim while still using a push stick that is wider than the piece you are ripping.
Tony, I vaguely remember we compared notes...
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