the jelly belly build

[del]

Try as I may could not figure out to set the hatch, without warping the skin, in any direction. So I hung it off three straps. I was able to fiberglass the seam, when it dries I can turn it over and sand it, followed by resin, sanding, primer, and paint.
Next I added resin where the bottom hatch seal goes.

After dinner finish working on the door hinge.

del

[Miriam C.]

Del if you prime it now you won't have to climb in with the hatch in the way. Unless you have very long arms-------then you can leave it till last.

[del]

:applause:

Del if you prime it now you won't have to climb in with the hatch in the way. Unless you have very long arms-------then you can leave it till last.

Next year if I glue some kind of counter top (no I have not decided what type of counter top) to this, will the glue stick to the primer?

del

[bve]

Try as I may could not figure out to set the hatch, without warping the skin, in any direction. So I hung it off three straps.

Man I don't envy you on this build, roughly how much does hatch weigh?

Is it just me or is there something 'fishy' looking about this view





Burke

[Miriam C.]

:applause:

Del if you prime it now you won't have to climb in with the hatch in the way. Unless you have very long arms-------then you can leave it till last.

Next year if I glue some kind of counter top (no I have not decided what type of counter top) to this, will the glue stick to the primer?

del

Not as well as it could. Especially if you are using contact cement.

[del]

Try as I may could not figure out to set the hatch, without warping the skin, in any direction. So I hung it off three straps.

Man I don't envy you on this build, roughly how much does hatch weigh?

Is it just me or is there something 'fishy' looking about this view





Burke

Should I put teeth around the tag holder. The weight of the hatch, when on its hinge, it can easily be lifted with one hand. Official weight unknown.

del

[del]

:applause:

Del if you prime it now you won't have to climb in with the hatch in the way. Unless you have very long arms-------then you can leave it till last.

Next year if I glue some kind of counter top (no I have not decided what type of counter top) to this, will the glue stick to the primer?

del

Not as well as it could. Especially if you are using contact cement.

That is what I afraid of.

del

[Micro469]

:applause:

Del if you prime it now you won't have to climb in with the hatch in the way. Unless you have very long arms-------then you can leave it till last.

Next year if I glue some kind of counter top (no I have not decided what type of counter top) to this, will the glue stick to the primer?

del

Not as well as it could. Especially if you are using contact cement.

That is what I afraid of.

del

Dell, if you want to protect it, give it a quick coat of epoxy. Then, when you decide what you want to use to cover it, just use epoxy as the adhesive......no fillers....

[Podunkfla]

Well... I have just had a different experience with sealing plywood that is going to be laminated with Formica or other laminates? I've been building restaurant counters and fixtures for years... and I always seal the wood. I have never had any problem with delamination of the surface, even with bathroom counters that get wet a lot. If the contact cement is applied properly and the laminate rolled down good, it will stick very well. I generally use sprayed shellac as a sealer because it dries very fast, soaks in the wood and is a good water resistant barrier. I have also used oil based sealers and epoxy on occasion, like in marine applications... Still no problem with gluing the laminate or having it come loose. I do still use the stinky old type of contact glue that is high VOC though. I just don't like the water based stuff... or trust it. JMHO

[Juneaudave]

Well... I have just had a different experience with sealing plywood that is going to be laminated with Formica or other laminates? I've been building restaurant counters and fixtures for years... and I always seal the wood. I have never had any problem with delamination of the surface, even with bathroom counters that get wet a lot. If the contact cement is applied properly and the laminate rolled down good, it will stick very well. I generally use sprayed shellac as a sealer because it dries very fast, soaks in the wood and is a good water resistant barrier. I have also used oil based sealers and epoxy on occasion, like in marine applications... Still no problem with gluing the laminate or having it come loose. I do still use the stinky old type of contact glue that is high VOC though. I just don't like the water based stuff... or trust it. JMHO

Good tip Brick...I'm always amazed at how members step up and volunteer their experience and knowledge!!!

[Podunkfla]

Well... I have just had a different experience with sealing plywood that is going to be laminated with Formica or other laminates? I've been building restaurant counters and fixtures for years... and I always seal the wood. I have never had any problem with delamination of the surface, even with bathroom counters that get wet a lot. If the contact cement is applied properly and the laminate rolled down good, it will stick very well. I generally use sprayed shellac as a sealer because it dries very fast, soaks in the wood and is a good water resistant barrier. I have also used oil based sealers and epoxy on occasion, like in marine applications... Still no problem with gluing the laminate or having it come loose. I do still use the stinky old type of contact glue that is high VOC though. I just don't like the water based stuff... or trust it. JMHO

Good tip Brick...I'm always amazed at how members step up and volunteer their experience and knowledge!!!

I forgot to mention I have also begun to use the same vinyl sealer that I use under the Conversion Varnish topcoat I use a lot. It makes a great sealer for most any wood that may see moisture occasionally. It's a Sherwin-Williams product, and it ain't cheap... But, it's good. Shellac will do for most things though. I mostly buy quality dewaxed shellac flakes and mix up my own as I need it. But, you could use the Zinser shellac from the big-box stores too. Zinser does make a dewaxed shellac; it's called "Seal Coat." Their Bullseye shellacs do contain wax. The spray can shellacs they make are also dewaxed.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/oem/us/ ... yl_sealer/

More about shellac here:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/phpBB ... e+adhesion.

[del]

Well... I have just had a different experience with sealing plywood that is going to be laminated with Formica or other laminates? I've been building restaurant counters and fixtures for years... and I always seal the wood. I have never had any problem with delamination of the surface, even with bathroom counters that get wet a lot. If the contact cement is applied properly and the laminate rolled down good, it will stick very well. I generally use sprayed shellac as a sealer because it dries very fast, soaks in the wood and is a good water resistant barrier. I have also used oil based sealers and epoxy on occasion, like in marine applications... Still no problem with gluing the laminate or having it come loose. I do still use the stinky old type of contact glue that is high VOC though. I just don't like the water based stuff... or trust it. JMHO

This is a solution that makes sense to me. Thanks everyone for the ideas.

del

[del]

Today I made the washers for the body mount bolts, and filled in some imperfections with bondo.

And oh yea I bolted the hinge to the body, and clamped the door on.



del

[Podunkfla]

Looks like the Binford 4000 works great! Congratulations...

[toypusher]

Man, that's a great job on the hinge!