Jeremy from Janesville, WI Build Journal

[skinnedknuckles]

Jeremy,
I understand about the height issue for you. You might also think about Brunsell lumber out of Madison or Woodworkers supply in Madison just South across the street from Fabco/Fabick Caterpillar. I have found quite a few voids in some of the plywood at Menards but not so much at the other more specialized lumber companies also like Marling ( I bought my laminate sheet material from them for my countertop - awesome selection ) their prices are generally a little higher though but the quality is better. Anytime that you would want to meet up, let me know, I am in the skinning stages now as my woodworking is pretty much all done.
Have fun making sawdust,
Paul

[Mr. Lahey]

Hi guys

It's the Delavan builder here. Not only do we live pretty close but looks like we think a lot alike too! Must be something in the water?

I too am going to build my galley cabinets/bulkhead and front headboard cabinet as separate units. I will then slide those in place and attach the walls to them. I'm also going to do a separate roof panel to drop over the top of cabinets. It will be skinned on the inside on the bench before setting in place on the camper.

I really like your new profile. I too am a big guy and have upsized my design to a 10 footer with a larger doors.

[5speedsoffury]

Jeremy,
I understand about the height issue for you. You might also think about Brunsell lumber...abbreviated...Anytime that you would want to meet up, let me know, I am in the skinning stages now as my woodworking is pretty much all done.
Have fun making sawdust,
Paul

Paul, I sent out emails at work today to Brunsell, Marling and Home Lumber. Marling got back to me in like 30 minutes (impressed) but did not have a clue of 5x10 plywood. My coworker highly recommends Home Lumber in WW so I plan to check them out. I also checked for that Woodworkers Supply up in Madison but what I found seemed to be abandoned/ look very sketchy. I don't want to end up ordering that ply from Menards only to be disappointed with the quality. I would hope it would be two good sheets but special ordering just what I need when it comes to lumber at a bix box seems like a bad idea. I will have to come visit soon as I would like to see a build up close before being all closed up to get ideas.

Hi guys

It's the Delavan builder here. Not only do we live pretty close but looks like we think a lot alike too! Must be something in the water?

I too am going to build my galley cabinets/bulkhead and front headboard cabinet as separate units. I will then slide those in place and attach the walls to them. I'm also going to do a separate roof panel to drop over the top of cabinets. It will be skinned on the inside on the bench before setting in place on the camper.

I really like your new profile. I too am a big guy and have upsized my design to a 10 footer with a larger doors.

Mr. Lahey, thank you for the approval of the new profile and good idea on bumping up in size! I am happy I found an ellipse how to on this forum. It allowed me to get curvy! If you have not yet seen the The Atma Travelear Teardrop that Dave built I highly recommend the read of his highly detailed build forums (trailer frame & teardrop) I aspire to create something similar and of the best quality that I can create with the tools and experience I have. I am tempted heavily to buy the Steve Fredericks Shop Manual as I feel it would be a nice guide for those iffy spots of the design that I am going to inevitably encounter. The inside out build is in my mind and body the best way to go. I just can't wait to lock this down and get the build going!

Jeremy

[Mr. Lahey]

The Atma trailer build thread is exactly what convinced me too about building the bulkheads first. Just really looks like the way to go.

I am also having same reservations on the Menards 1/8 ply as well. Alexander Lumber in Elkhorn did say they can get 5x5 sheets of 1/8 Baltic Birch for $15.95 a sheet. They can have in 2 days or less, as they get a truck from that supplier every other day. Maybe that helps you?

Later

[skinnedknuckles]

That is a good price on 1/8 baltic birch, I picked my 5x5 1/8" up at Woodcraft in Madison they have it in stock ,stuff bends like a wet noodle. I do agree Woodworkers supply looks abandoned but its better than where he used to be He has super low overhead so he passes the savings down to the buyer. Alot of woodworking guys by from him, his hours are kinda screwy though. Stay away from cheap 1/8" ply as it is not stable enough to make smooth bends and stay smooth. Just look at it in the bin at the store , if it looks really wavy leave it alone. You could use Okuma plywood high quality but at 75.00 a sheet real pricey.
Have fun making sawdust ,just not in the kitchen
Paul

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all,

Sorry for the radio silence. I have had a lot of planning and other projects that I have been working on.

After visiting Paul and his awesome build I purchased 2 5'x10' sheets of ACX from Menards (SPECIAL ORDER) I was not too set on trying to make a frame when I could just skeleton out ply.

Sawdust has flown on the side walls!
Large homemade ellipse jig for router made. Check.
Make minor blemish on edge Check
Think of a fix and execute. Check
Thank goodness for routers, 5/8" rasp router bits and my creative gene!

I also cut out an offset arc on the front I must have missed taking a picture off that! Not nearly exciting as the ellipse.

This post is kind of patchy but hey it is an update and it has pictures!

Thanks for looking and offering advice/ praise! I look forward to reading responses!

Jeremy

[5speedsoffury]

Here is that front radius. I left just a little extra to trim up when I figure things out further. If you all haven't noticed there is no sense me making plans. I just change them whether I mean to or not!

[skinnedknuckles]

Thats a cool jig Glad you liked how mine is coming along. Some of those edge repairs that will be covered up you can make a small form with a cheap dollar plastic lid cut to shape taped on both sides of your work and filled with epoxy. Just remember to peel the forms off before the epoxy hardens totally ( I did a boo boo on one of my doors and fixed it that way ). Hey, before you know it your teardrop is going to be taking shape.
Have fun making more sawdust
Paul

[Mr. Lahey]

Nice to see the update!
I'm looking forward to the day I cut out my side walls.
Seeing yours beginning to take shape is motivating me for sure.

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all!

Paul, Thanks for the epoxy repair trick. It will come in handy I am sure at some point.

I just purchased the Steve Frederick Shop Manual on building teardrops. I have read through it pretty thoroughly and reread some of the sidewall, door and galley hatch portions of the manual. I like that it has pictures because my comprehension is lower than I would like so it is nice to see it in color! I am pretty set on going with his hatch design and recessing for the headliner as the inside out method is really great for me and my back which is not that great. There is a few things that really make me question that technique. I am not fond of the screwing through the longest width of the roof spar. down into the edge grain of ply. This seems weak/ mediocre for strength.The best strength comes from the blocking. I like that for sure. I think rather than putting screws through the widest portion of the roof spar down into the sidewall a dowel with glue would be way better. I would use the drill press to drill the doweling hole in the spars and then use a handheld drill to drill down into the sidewall say around an inch or better. I will probably have to reread this all again in print form rather than on the computer screen to understand it more. If I become more comfortable with this method I will go with it but double 2/2 hardwood spars and a kreg jig seem to be a much simpler method.

I'm going to be scratching my head just a little longer on this before I make further cuts. I will also be making a template. I was hoping to make it out of the packaging material that my 5x10 sheets of acx came in but that stuff is all warped and messed up! I am going to make the template exactly the same as my first side i have cut then sand and work the transitions just a little then use a top bearing flush trim bit to make the sides outer edge.

More reading, planning and head scratching to go! Oh and I need to round up some fixtures that I will be using. I want to have that all laid out before the final skeleton is made and then duplicated to the other side.

Jeremy

PS I want to say that the Steve Frederick Shop Manual is definitely worth the purchase. I mean this truly. Sure I may have other ideas but his method is proven. As my coworker would say "It is his world, I am just living in it." So thank you for all the hard work you put into this manual! I got so many ideas, tips and tricks I feel a lot more comfortable going forward in the planning and execution of what will be my largest project to date.

[noseoil]

Not sure about the spar to edge stuff you referenced as I didn't get the book, but it sounds like a simple self-centering doweling jig would be easier to use. I got one at Harbor Freight for my build as the Wellman I had for years is gone or misplaced. (I don't own a kreg jig)

It just clamps the material between two blocks & has an insert to guide the bit into the edge of the wood. I think it cost about 13$ if I remember correctly. It works on different thickness material & gives a centered hole. The marks on mine were off, so I had to re-scribe the center line (cheap POS Chinese tool) for the 3/8" bit. Looks like this.

[5speedsoffury]

Not sure about the spar to edge stuff you referenced as I didn't get the book, but it sounds like a simple self-centering doweling jig would be easier to use. I got one at Harbor Freight for my build as the Wellman I had for years is gone or misplaced. (I don't own a kreg jig)

It just clamps the material between two blocks & has an insert to guide the bit into the edge of the wood. I think it cost about 13$ if I remember correctly. It works on different thickness material & gives a centered hole. The marks on mine were off, so I had to re-scribe the center line (cheap POS Chinese tool) for the 3/8" bit.

Thanks Noseoil! That looks to be a viable option! Also congrats on your milestone of getting to use your build! I like the camp chef oven and am thinking of putting it in the galley similar to as you have. Any first impressions of its usefulness? I am thinking of putting a countertop over top of it that can be removed if using the range top. Heck I think it would be cool to have that portion of the counter top on drawer slides that could slide back into the galley wall area. hmm.

Speaking of saving money. I am going to bring up the whole vent fan topic. I am definitely going to be putting one in. I want to have all the features of the higher end models but of course the price is not to my liking. I would rather save that money towards the cooler. The remote and the rain sensors are nice but for the other features couldn't a person just take and buy a single speed well made roof fan and then add in one of the "Motor speed Controller Reversible PWM Control Forward / Reverse Switch" from Ebay for like 5 bucks. I could see making the controller and fan easily removable so if this setup fails in the future it could be replaced with a pricier option.

[noseoil]

The stove/oven combo is pretty well made. There are no issues with using it or having it run properly. One comment I have heard from people is that the oven will only heat to about 350 degrees, so baking stuff at high temps or a 450 degree pizza oven is pretty much out with this unit. Also, it doesn't heat completely evenly, so turning things is a must with it. Take a look at the build for how I installed the tracks on mine. I've seen drawers & boxes made (wood next to the metal I didn't want), but I just used 2 aluminum angles to support it and it works & tracks very well. Easier to make too.

Make sure to leave enough room for the knobs on your hatch layout, to let it close properly when it swings down to close. Measuring the stove body won't work, if you don't remember that the knobs stick out farther than the actual unit itself. I like your idea for a work surface on top of the stove. A thin bamboo cutting board, cut to fit, would be a good addition to the galley for my build. Thanks for that one.

About the vent & fan, I decided I couldn't make one that would have 10 speeds, self-open & close, have a thermostat & rain sensor & do it all. I'm not that good at electrical things, so it was easier to just bite the bullet & buy one for me.

[5speedsoffury]

The stove/oven combo is pretty well made. There are no issues with using it or having it run properly. One comment I have heard from people is that the oven will only heat to about 350 degrees, so baking stuff at high temps or a 450 degree pizza oven is pretty much out with this unit. Also, it doesn't heat completely evenly, so turning things is a must with it. Take a look at the build for how I installed the tracks on mine. I've seen drawers & boxes made (wood next to the metal I didn't want), but I just used 2 aluminum angles to support it and it works & tracks very well. Easier to make too.

Make sure to leave enough room for the knobs on your hatch layout, to let it close properly when it swings down to close. Measuring the stove body won't work, if you don't remember that the knobs stick out farther than the actual unit itself. I like your idea for a work surface on top of the stove. A thin bamboo cutting board, cut to fit, would be a good addition to the galley for my build. Thanks for that one.

About the vent & fan, I decided I couldn't make one that would have 10 speeds, self-open & close, have a thermostat & rain sensor & do it all. I'm not that good at electrical things, so it was easier to just bite the bullet & buy one for me.

Thanks Noseoil! All good info! Maybe I will just make the splurge on the fan! What model is the one you got?

Currently I am gluing up the template made out of 1/4 Tigerply. I am reinforcing the seams with 4" wide strips of medium canvas filled with t2. I used a foam roller and diluted the t2 a little too. I plan to copy the template to the side I have the profile cut on. I will make some fine adjustments on the template to smooth things out then template the sides out! I'm excited. Even though it has been a slow process I hope to get this thing campable by next year. I have a trip planned in August around my wife's and my birthday and I plan to be camping in this rig!

Jeremy

[noseoil]

I'm thinking it was this one, but I got it last year so I don't have to box it came in to read the model number. It's the 4500K, white, self closing, thermostat, remote, rain sensor & 10 speeds. I bought from Amazon, but I think there are better deals out there. Here's one.

https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/catalog/m ... fgod7IYB5A

I like having 10 speeds since one of the complaints about vented fans is about the noise & slowing them down.