Northwestern Build - Updated 7/4/2010 - Done!

[mikeschn]

Just to throw a wrench in the works, check out my latest...

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... 625#551625

Mike...

[starleen2]

What no picts yet? Been gone all week with absolutely no internet and eagerly waiting to see some pict – so bring em on! Please?

[wlivesey]

Just to throw a wrench in the works, check out my latest...

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... 625#551625

Mike...

Looks good Mike. I had toyed around with a side dinette but decided it was going to make the trailer too big for what I wanted to do. Next time around I'll just might give it a try. So when are you going to start building???

What no picts yet? Been gone all week with absolutely no internet and eagerly waiting to see some pict – so bring em on! Please?

Here's some pics.. Sorry it's taken me so long. My work has been a whip lately and the weather here has been less than optimal for building. Enough with the excuses...

Looking in from the back. Everything is stained (oiled) and the flooring is in.


A closer look at the kitch and power converter from the back of the trailer.


Looking in from the shore side window. That's three inch foam sitting on the dinette seat. We've decided 4 inch foam would be better.


Looking in from the curb side window. You can see some of the electrical has gone in.

[starleen2]

OOOOHHHHH nice – (---> insert salivating emoticon here)

[wlivesey]

A few more pics to show some mid-day progress.

[mikeschn]

Kewl... the build is coming along nicely.

Did you figure out a way to work the shower into the design?

I just installed a gas spring on my Giant Teardrop... It was so easy... I'm thinking that's the way to go on the 13' O.W.W.

Mike...

[wlivesey]

Kewl... the build is coming along nicely.

Did you figure out a way to work the shower into the design?

I just installed a gas spring on my Giant Teardrop... It was so easy... I'm thinking that's the way to go on the 13' O.W.W.

Mike...

I've got some ideas for a shower. Nothing drawn out yet. There are some very small fiberglass showerpan/toilet combo units available that are pretty small.

http://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalog/display.php?category_id=171

All of these are too big for my current build. In fact, as infrequently as I need a shower inside my trailer, something less permanent is preferable to me. I'm thinking of building a somewhat portable shower pan and curtain setup that can make use of the potty space as well as the isle when needed. When I don't need it, it should collapse/fold away and take up less space. It would be really nice if, when boondocking, I could set it up outside too. I've got a portable intant water heater that would work great for this arrangement. just some thoughts...

[mikeschn]

Well, keep me posted on what you come up with. I would consider doing a redesign of my 13' OWW, if you come up with a good way to take a shower inside.

Mike...

[starleen2]

What I use I a very large Plastic tub Like the type used for storage purchased at Wally world. It is large enough for me to sit in (on a small stool) and I have a drain spigot attached to hose to drain it. I also Use a battery powered Pump to pump the water form a five gallon bucket that has been sitting outside to warm the water. We can take it in or out of the camper at any time – very portable and lightweight – will try to post a pict


Looks good – just remember – it’s gonna be twice as heavy when you get it finished – might need to use two arms

[TheOtherSean]

Not exactly "inside" the teardrop, but I purchased a water heater and standard RV external shower with the intention of rigging an external shower enclosure. Not an ideal solution for year-round camping in the temperate climes, but I'm only building an extended Benroy.

If I was building a small standy design, I think I'd put together a removable solution.
1. Get a faucet for the sink that allows attachment of a shower hose
2. Use a water heater pan (that shallow metal pan that goes under a home WH) as the shower pan - lightweight, and can be fitted with a drain
3. Some sort of removable shower curtain rod to keep water from going everywhere - maybe 1/2" EMT conduit?
4. Install a drain connection to the grey water tank so the shower pan can drain when in use.

[WayneFromMo]

Very Nice!

[wlivesey]

I discovered a bit of a problem last night. Some how, I managed to make the hatch a little too low above the rear wall. There doesn't seem to be enough room under it (when down) for the upper half of the rear wall to fold inside. When the upper half of the wall folds down (or in), I need at least 2.25 inches of clearance. I've only got about an inch.... Other than building a new hatch - does anyone have any good ideas for solving my problem?

I could cut the lower wall, and adjoining side walls down lower a couple of inches but If I mess it up, then I'm in big trouble.

I could make the upper wall hinge at the top, and about 6 inches forward of verticle. In that case, making a working door would be tough.

I can also build a new hatch. This idea is a beating, mentally, but if I can keep building hatches until I get it right.

My brain hurts...

[starleen2]

I discovered a bit of a problem last night. Some how, I managed to make the hatch a little too low above the rear wall. There doesn't seem to be enough room under it (when down) for the upper half of the rear wall to fold inside. When the upper half of the wall folds down (or in), I need at least 2.25 inches of clearance. I've only got about an inch.... Other than building a new hatch - does anyone have any good ideas for solving my problem?

I could cut the lower wall, and adjoining side walls down lower a couple of inches but If I mess it up, then I'm in big trouble.

I could make the upper wall hinge at the top, and about 6 inches forward of verticle. In that case, making a working door would be tough.

I can also build a new hatch. This idea is a beating, mentally, but if I can keep building hatches until I get it right.

My brain hurts...

Let me see if I can offer a solution? perhaps add to the offset to raise the hatch for the needed clearance when closed? Cut a filler strip and attach it where it t gets thinner at the top and ends at 1.25 inches at the bottom. Since you dont have the exterior skinned yet, you can hide the seam

[mikeschn]

I see 2 possibilities...

1) screw a couple cleats on the inside walls, and have your back top wall rest on the cleats. The cleats could be a couple inches below the top of the wall, where you had planned on letting the wall rest on.

2) move your outside cleats up a couple inches. You hatch wouldn't close as much, leaving more room for your top wall. Then you could call your trailer Moby Dick... (refer to the thread with Rayvillian's new Winter Warrior design.)

Mike...

[wlivesey]

Let me see if I can offer a solution? perhaps add to the offset to raise the hatch for the needed clearance when closed? Cut a filler strip and attach it where it t gets thinner at the top and ends at 1.25 inches at the bottom. Since you dont have the exterior skinned yet, you can hide the seam

That would work. The only problem is that it kind of goofs up the overall profile of the trailer. It raises the hatch slightly and really changes the way the trailer looks. I don't care for that...

There are several other hinge options out there...

swing clear continuous hinges
flipper door systems http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=34
pocket door slides