Ok here we go...PMF!

[dales133]

As long as I'm under 2000 pounds loaded up I'm happy, if I go over well I can live with that too.
The frame is 3 X2 x 3 mm wall and I've used 2 6 meter lengths almost.
I think it's about 5 pounds a meter.
The subfloor frame is 2x1 X and isn't realy that heavy.
Floor frame is 65 35 hardwood and pine in the internal floor frame to save weight.
Wall frames are 3/4 inch hardwood so the house..for lack of better word is going to be pretty light.
So most of the heavy stuff is in the trailer and I want a go anywhere build.
As far as the counter top it should be around 900 witch is standard household here.cheers Dale

[KCStudly]

I do my best to mask off glue areas prior to finishing. I run the tape under where the adjoining part would meet be by about 1/8 inch to be sure none of the unfinished part peeks out, then after stain and poly I pull the tape. Where I am worried about glue squeeze out (pretty much everywhere) I try to give the poly as much time as possible to set up (days sometimes), blot some more tape on my t-shirt (to take some of the tack away) and mask up to the joint about 1/16 inch short. I found it is way better to have a uniform amount of squeeze out to clean up, than it is to get tape stuck under the edge of the joint or under the squeezed out fillet, then have to pick or scrape tape out of the joint.

For tight joints in finish work, cabinets, splicing ply, and such where I can get good tight fit and solid clamp-up, I use TB2. For structural assemblies with slightly uneven fits, like walls to floor and bulkhead, I used Pl Premium. It fills a little better and has a long open time.

TB2 is no good below 55 deg F; it will chalk up and be a weak joint. Whereas PL will go down to 45 deg F, so that can be a factor for me.

[KCStudly]

Forgot to add, if there is anywhere that got finished that I should have left raw, I mask it and hand sand back to raw.

[dales133]

Cool ty.
Pl is?

[KCStudly]

.
Loctite PL Premium

[dales133]

Cheers mate I'll try to find some

[KCStudly]

Any polyurethane "construction adhesive" should do fine.

[Sheddie]

Hi Dale
I have been looking at your frame and profile pictures. What you are doing there looks really good. You are going to be towing with a Cruiser, so a bit of extra weight and height shouldn't be an issue. Keeping the track the same as the Cruiser is probably a good option when you start heading off road. The profile photo you have there makes it look rather high and short, but that is probably not helped with he shadows where you took the photo and with the bit missing off the back. The under floor storage looks good, you could probably get away with a long skinny hatch cover on each side, although with a couple of big drawers you would be able to organise things better. The only problem that I see is getting in and out of bed. A running board or fold down step?
Frank

[dales133]

Thanks for stopping by Frank!
It's actually about 4 inches lower than the mock up and 300 of so shorter so that should help with proportion.
It's going to have to have steps or running boards but it's a trade off for that valuable space.
Be nice to leave it set up at camp and take off for the day with an empty Wagon and not stuff everything in the cabin.
I'm also going to lower the cabin hight as much as practicle to make it as low as I can.
I realy struggled with the decision to add the underfloor due to the hight but at the end of the day I just had to stop procrastinating and go with my gut and make headway....hope it was the right decision!

[dales133]

so my stupid cat got into a fight day before last and was unable to even stand so i took the day off and while i wa witing for mr dial a vet proceeded to get on with it,
started with ripping down some more hardwood for the cross members on the floor then belt sanded the frame to get it all smooth and flush ect.
then i got my 1/4 inch ply and glued and screwed it to the top of the frame.
unbolted the assembled floor after working out my cabin length and flipped it over and belt sanded the other side then cut my insulation and installed it and started on the underside skin.
i hadnt eaten all day and had a beer or 3 towards the close of business so to speak so left it here.... uploading some pics... all in all a satisfying productive day







so thats where i left off today.
pretty pleased, got my cabin length determined and my floor built

[dales133]

ok well im working on my walls today but ive got a question for anyone thats used littlleguy doors.
mine dont have a trim ring on the inside, how did you guys finish yours off?
ive got 2 options i can see, try to cut the openings so they are an exact fit or over cut it and fit some kind of mould around the ply that fits up against it.
what did you guys do.

[Sheddie]

Hi Dale,
Strop had the same question when he was thinking about the Little Guy doors. These are the replys that I posted telling him what I did. I have no inner trim and they look spot on.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61459&start=15

Have a read and I hope it helps.
Frank

[dales133]

Cheers Frank I was looking at doing something similar.apreciate the response

[dales133]

went to the flea market and scored some more clamps, went to the hardware got a bargain on some 3/4 inch meranti 6 bucks a meter for 180x19 (ex 8x1)for my wall frames and got to building!
ripped ,framed and cut in one of my doors.. painful trimming little by little but it will be worth it, still needs a little touch up but was ok for a trial fit,
remounted the wall and left it at that for the day... took longer than it looks.






some mightn't like it and think its to tall but i love it,
the wheels compensate for the hight and give it a bit of a mad maxish look, thats fine by me .
its pretty heavy on the hitch though but all the weights in the arse end from here on out so it should balance out.
anyway.. feel like ive achieved things in a small amount of time thats been a long time coming.

cheers Dale

[KCStudly]

Good progress! It's always a big reward when the walls go up.

On the other hand, I would encourage you to do as much work as you can "in the flat" or on the bench. It goes much easier and quicker that way, IMO.