First build 5x10 Rimple design

[dales133]

If your joining 3/4to 3/4 then obviouly the width of the rebate is the same as the material your joining.
depth is the amount that will provide the most stengh to the glue join without compromising the strength of the structure of the joint.
I hate following KCs answers ,its hard to look half as smart even if you know what your talking about
Basicly buy a trim router.
It will save you weeks not hours and youll get a better result

[S. Heisley]

If your joining 3/4to 3/4 then obviouly the width of the rebate is the same as the material your joining.
depth is the amount that will provide the most stengh to the glue join without compromising the strength of the structure of the joint.
I hate following KCs answers ,its hard to look half as smart even if you know what your talking about
Basicly buy a trim router.
It will save you weeks not hours and youll get a better result

...Except, on page 1, she stated that she is building sandwich walls; so, the width of each piece would end up being much more than 3/4" wide; and, the way that she ends up building may change the way she joins everything together. She stated that she had already purchased the plywood and can't take it back. So, she must make use of what she already has purchased, even though she really didn't need that thick an exterior wall.

[S. Heisley]

Before you proceed any further, I'd like to clarify something:

In the title of your build journal and on the first page, you say that you are building a Rimple design. However, on page 3 of your build journal, your sketched design shows both two squared-off ends and two curved ends. A Rimple design has a squared off back and a front that is rounded at the top. With a Benroy design, both the front and the back are rounded at the top. It could make a difference in your build strategy. So, is your back squared off or is it rounded at the top? (In other words, are you building a flat back or a curved back?)

[KCStudly]

Sorry for any confusion, I thought Mariann decided to stick with the 3/4 ply and do a simple single ply wall. (It's kind of hard to keep track with multiple postings in different forums.)

I think a Rimple has the same basic radius at both ends and a Benroy has a larger radius at the rear; at least that is what shows in the Design Resources link.

So if simple 3/4 inch ply (basic wall with no extra skins), then 3/4 wide x 1/4 inch deep would work nicely.

If a built up wall, then consider overlapping the outer skin as Sharon suggested.

In either case a simple sketch will help to figure out where and how much to hold back and where and how much to add (don't forget to account for both ends when figuring cut lengths).

If you are going to add aluminum skin and/or corner trim to the outside, now would be a good time to make sure you have something solid to screw that into (another good argument for a stick frame wall over a plywood wall or core... the ability to screw into side grain).

[S. Heisley]

Sorry for any confusion, I thought Mariann decided to stick with the 3/4 ply and do a simple single ply wall. (It's kind of hard to keep track with multiple postings in different forums.)

I think a Rimple has the same basic radius at both ends and a Benroy has a larger radius at the rear; at least that is what shows in the Design Resources link.

So if simple 3/4 inch ply (basic wall with no extra skins), then 3/4 wide x 1/4 inch deep would work nicely.

If a built up wall, then consider overlapping the outer skin as Sharon suggested.

In either case a simple sketch will help to figure out where and how much to hold back and where and how much to add (don't forget to account for both ends when figuring cut lengths).

If you are going to add aluminum skin and/or corner trim to the outside, now would be a good time to make sure you have something solid to screw that into (another good argument for a stick frame wall over a plywood wall or core... the ability to screw into side grain).

Thanks, KC. ...My bad. I was thinking a Rimple was flat in the back.

Yes, whether she builds her walls as a single piece of plywood or as a sandwich makes a BIG difference in how the walls are attached to each other. Her original statement was that she was building a sandwich wall. If she changed, I was not aware of it and she hasn't gone in and edited her first build page. (Now, I understand why KC was suggesting screwing in from the side!)

[mariannf]

Hi Sharon and KC to clarify:
1. right the rimple I am building has curved front and back each with a 19 inch radius.
2. Yes, the walls will be sandwich walls: 3/4 ply exterior, 1x2 framing and insulation, 3mm baltic birch ply interior skin. This makes the total wall depth 1.61 or a hair less than 1 and 5/8
3. I plan to have a bulkhead wall at the front and rear (there is no galley) that will be joined to the sidewalls. The height of the bulkhead walls and therefore the length of the joint is 41 inches since the curve cut starts at 19 inches down from the top on the sidewalls.
4. based on my understanding of our discussion, you recommend that I join the side and galley walls with a rabbet joint. If given the above clarifications you still think this is the most sound approach; the rabbet cut in the sidewalls would be 41 inches from the bottom up (again as the curve starts at 19 inches down from the top).
5. I would further strengthen the joint of the walls by screwing from the outside into the 1x2 framing material that meets at the joint.

This is how I will proceed unless with these clarifications you see a major planning flaw.

Thanks again!

[KCStudly]

That sounds good. Heavy, but good.

Have you decided how the walls will join the floor? Will everything sit on top of your trailer frame or do you plan to skirt down and cover it up? That might affect your joint laps and how you decide to do the roof part. (I apologize in advance if this has been discussed already.)

[mariannf]

That sounds good. Heavy, but good.

Have you decided how the walls will join the floor? Will everything sit on top of your trailer frame or do you plan to skirt down and cover it up? That might affect your joint laps and how you decide to do the roof part. (I apologize in advance if this has been discussed already.)

Hi KC no worries. The walls will sit on top of the floors. they will be glued and screwed in from the side into 1x4 framing.
Just to make sure i understand the directions on the rabbet (you said the cut is 3x4 by 1/4). does this picture depict that, you will see it implies cutting a 1/4 deep by 3/4 long cut in to the sidewall to accommodate the bulkhead wall.

rabbet 1.png (54.32 KiB) Viewed 3027 times

[S. Heisley]

Based on what has been clarified, I would still recess The side wall frames by the width of your completed roof, top, front, and back, excluding the exterior plywood, which may be used to cover over all.

However, because of the curves on each end, I would put your3mm interior plywood ceiling in separate from the roof, front, and back frames. Run a line of glue along the top edge of the wall frame and then lay the interior plywood on top of that, tacking it down to the wall frame with small tacks or screws in a few places, as you go. (If you can, get someone to help hold the plywood in place until you can get enough tacked down to hold it.) You will need at least one seam in your interior plywood. If possible, place that seam where it won't be easily seen. You can back that seam with one of your spars (cross roof frame boards) and that will help hold the side walls in place until the roof frame is added.

After all that is done, build your roof frame, in place, on top of the ceiling plywood. (If you want to, you can make the flat part of the roof frame separately and drop it in place after that portion is built; but, curves are really hard to do separately and are somewhat unforgiving; therefore, building that part in place is easier.) If you find that you have any places where the roof frame sits above the side walls, you can just sand down that part of the frame. Once that is done, add your wiring, followed by insulation, and top it all with your exterior roof plywood.

On another note, as much as possible, put your frame screws in vertically, from frame to frame, and try to keep them away from the exterior edge. If you have purchased a Kreg jig, use it. That way, it will be less likely that your screws will run into each other, later on, when you add your exterior aluminum trim, in case you still plan on finishing your build with an outer aluminum skin.

Again, there are many ways to do what you want. Go with what you feel is right for you.

[S. Heisley]

.
A SEPARATE NOTE ON WEIGHT:

Because of the sizes of wood used, you deck probably weighs three times what it should and your wall sides will weigh approximately 35 to 40 pounds more than needed. In California, unless you have brakes on your trailer, you are limited, legally, to 1,500 pounds for the weight of your trailer.

Your tow vehicle has two different weight concerns:

1) The maximum weight authorized for your tow vehicle to tow. Some vehicles can tow 2,000 to 3,500 lbs, some, more ...or less.
2) The maximum weight authorized for your tow vehicle brakes to stop it and the trailer. Many vehicles are only authorized to stop 1,200 lbs or less.

If your trailer's weight exceeds either the state's legal limit or your tow vehicle's maximum stopping weight and you get in an accident because your tow vehicle couldn't stop in time, you could be held legally responsible.

As you build, please keep the above in mind. The weight can add up quickly and I would hate to see you build your trailer; and, later on, find you that you built it too heavy.

[mariannf]

Hi Sharon,
Thanks for the note. Yes I have been keeping track of the weight for this reason. Based on linear or square feet of the material used and based on standard construction material weight info available online. Here are the numbers specific to my main materials:

3/4 5x10 plywood for sidewalls (2 sheets), bulkhead walls (less than 1 sheet, total 60 inches by 58 inches), floor (1 sheet): 350
Baltic birch 3mm approx. 11 5x5 panels for interior skin and roof: 121
3, 10 ft 2x4s attached to trailer: 39
1x4 for subfloor and frame to floor (approx 80 ft): 51
1x2 all framing approx. approx 150 feet: 40.5
.032 aluminum sheet (.451 lb per sq ft appox 70 sq ft): 31
Ply for bunk if ¾ inch: 23.75
Doors: 56
Windows: 26

Total est weight: 733.25

This does not account for the weight of screws, hard foam insulation, vent fan, wires, tongue box with battery, foam mattresses 1 full size (4 inch foam), and two bunks (both smaller than twin using 3 in foam).
But I am thinking these unaccounted items will not add to about 744 pounds. I am not building any galley, or tables. I am planning cabinets, and am considering using lauan to save weight. a 1/8 4x8 sheet weighs 11 bs.

My suv has a gvwr of 3650, and I have an hf superduty trailer with a 1720 capacity.

[S. Heisley]

Hi Sharon,
Thanks for the note. Yes I have been keeping track of the weight for this reason. Based on linear or square feet of the material used and based on standard construction material weight info available online. Here are the numbers specific to my main materials:

3/4 5x10 plywood for sidewalls (2 sheets), bulkhead walls (less than 1 sheet), floor (1 sheet): 380
Baltic birch 3mm approx. 10 5x5 panels for interior skin and roof: 110
3, 10 ft 2x4s attached to trailer: 39
1x4 for subfloor and frame to floor (approx 80 ft): 51
1x2 all framing approx. approx 150 feet: 40.5
.032 aluminum sheet (.451 lb per sq ft appox 70 sq ft): 31
Ply for bunk if ¾ inch: 23.75
Doors: 56
Windows: 26

Total est weight: 756

This does not account for the weight of screws, hard foam insulation, vent fan, wires, tongue box with battery, foam mattresses 1 full size (4 inch foam), and two bunks (both smaller than twin using 3 in foam).
But I am thinking these unaccounted items will not add to about 744 pounds. I am not building any galley, or tables. I am planning cabinets, and am considering using lauan to save weight. a 1/8 4x8 sheet weighs 11 bs.

My suv has a gvwr of 3650, and I have an hf superduty trailer with a 1720 capacity.

I'm impressed! Based on what you've calculated; and, if you stay on track, you may be okay!

[KCStudly]

Did you forget to include the 272 lbs for the weight of the HF trailer? (It may be a tad less as that is the listed shipping weight with packaging.) How about cargo? Just saying, 380 lbs for plywood outweighs your HF trailer by well over 100 lbs. Kind of puts things into perspective.

By comparison, 5mm (3/16 inch) ply would weigh about 1/4 of that, or about 95 lbs.

It takes a mental adjustment to start thinking like you are building a lightweight craft and not a residential building.

Some more perspective, the only 2x dimensional lumber in my build, not counting the lightweight cedar, is the blocking in my doors for the door latches, and most of that got cut out for the latches. The heaviest single piece of plywood in my build will probably be the 1/2 inch galley counter base. If I didn't already own it, I would have bought 3/8 for that.

It's not too late. In the poles forum there is a thread asking what people would do different on their next build. The most common answers from first time builders is that they should have installed side doors on both sides right from the beginning, and that they would build lighter by using thinner skins.

Either way, we will continue to offer support and suggestions.

For your cabinet floors or shelves, I wouldn't go less than 5mm on the ply. Other opinions may vary.

[mariannf]

Hi Sharon,
Thanks for the note. Yes I have been keeping track of the weight for this reason. Based on linear or square feet of the material used and based on standard construction material weight info available online. Here are the numbers specific to my main materials:

3/4 5x10 plywood for sidewalls (2 sheets), bulkhead walls (less than 1 sheet), floor (1 sheet): 380
Baltic birch 3mm approx. 10 5x5 panels for interior skin and roof: 110
3, 10 ft 2x4s attached to trailer: 39
1x4 for subfloor and frame to floor (approx 80 ft): 51
1x2 all framing approx. approx 150 feet: 40.5
.032 aluminum sheet (.451 lb per sq ft appox 70 sq ft): 31
Ply for bunk if ¾ inch: 23.75
Doors: 56
Windows: 26

Total est weight: 756

This does not account for the weight of screws, hard foam insulation, vent fan, wires, tongue box with battery, foam mattresses 1 full size (4 inch foam), and two bunks (both smaller than twin using 3 in foam).
But I am thinking these unaccounted items will not add to about 744 pounds. I am not building any galley, or tables. I am planning cabinets, and am considering using lauan to save weight. a 1/8 4x8 sheet weighs 11 bs.

My suv has a gvwr of 3650, and I have an hf superduty trailer with a 1720 capacity.

I'm impressed! Based on what you've calculated; and, if you stay on track, you may be okay!

Thanks Sharon and KC. i am going to continue on with the material I have, but appreciate the encouragement to reconsider.
KC you are right i didn't take the trailer weight in to account. it is less than the shipping weight and I believe about 260. the doors and window weights are the shipping weights as well and will be a few pounds lighter. Also I didn't take out the weight of the cuts to the ply for the doors (2 that are 26 x 36) and the two windows (2 that are 14x21). I estimate that takes approx 42-45 pounds off the total with interior and exterior ply (I did include their framing material in my calculation)
I could shave off a couple of pounds by going with a lighter ply for the bunk (maybe 2-3 pounds).
this gets me in the ball park of 971 which doesn't account for: wires, hard foam insulation, vent fan, mattresses, screws, tongue box and battery. I don't think these items could add up to over 500 pounds, so I'll press on!
Also I bought the router and will do some test cuts tomorrow!

[KCStudly]

Now it sounds like you have the ball rolling! Better to get into the planning mode before you get too far building.