Started ... Campable 9/18/2011 !!!

[Billy K]

I've been reading,planning,viewing,adjusting,thinking...repeat,repeat...

Still juggling GenBen or Rimple.
Scooter's profile is catchy as are some of his ideas.
I also like a few ideas from JMTK's Woodie.
There are so many to name that I'll leave someone out, but...those two are good starters.

I'm planning on a 58" x 95" trailer (Carter). It has a space for a spare tire under the galley. Space for a box in the front. 15" rims.

Okay, now for my thoughts...

1)1/4" x 3/4" x 1/4" insulated floor

2) Sandwich walls out to inside 1/2" x 3/4" x 1/8" - insulated - I would drop the outer skin to the bottom of the frame,wall frame and 1/8 would sit on the floor.

3) I'd like a front bulkhead from the floor to the point where the front curve starts. It will hold 1 or 2 awning style windows.

4) Fantastic fan

5) I like the doors from Scooter's trailer (wood thresh hold and trim); low profile hinge and weather seal under the outside wood trim.

6) The wood frame fenders from JMTK's trailer.

7) The galley would have a half hatch and lower barn style doors.

8 ) The only place I'd need a 5x8 material would be to skin the roof
(open to ideas)

9) Outside walls and barn doors would be woodie style sealed and protected.

I hope this draws a good enough picture for some of you to make comments and offer your thoughts. I don't have a CAD program to add pictures.

I'm open to any and all thoughts and appreciate them all.

I came back to edit in...

12V for cabin and 'porch lites' with 120 in galley.

[Anthony J Grant]

Lets see some pics of the sawdust

[mikeschn]

Billy,

You don't say where you are at, but Jim (Carter), still has the very special trailer available. Grab that and you are halfway there!

Mike...

[Billy K]

Mike-mailed back and forth with Carter, waiting on some cash to come in and then, that trailer is the base of the plan.

Anthony - gonna be awhile before I to the saw dust phase...

Just wanted to get some of the thoughts out of my head and kicked around..

I've not used a CAD program so, I'm looking them over to see which one is "computer dummy simple"...

[danlott]

I've not used a CAD program so, I'm looking them over to see which one is "computer dummy simple"...

I would suggest you give Google SketchUp a try. First off it is FREE. Second if you have never tried other cad programs then you might actually find it easier to use. If you do try it I suggest you watch the help videos to get a faster start on using it. Also if you have questions you can always get on here and post a question in the CAD section.

You can look in my album to see the drawings I did in SketchUp.

Dan

[Billy K]

Had an interesting question ask of me today. I don't have an answer. Maybe someone here can help.

Could I build a sandwich wall and attach it to the outside of the frame, in order to keep the side to side, interior width 58", as the trailer is built?

I'm thinking it would take a 1/8-3/4-1/8 wall to hold the 60" outside to outside measurement.

Anybody?? Thoughts??

[Ageless]

Refer to this for sidewall attachment

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=19442

[Prem]

.....or punched, galvanized angle iron with carriage bolts!

[Billy K]

Thanks, Ageless. I've studied that one, Good Stuff!

I see the plywood wall attached, to the outside. So, I'm guessing, the whole sandwich would be okay, too?

Prem- you're saying, put the angle on the outside,bottom of the wall and bolt through angle-wall-trailer frame..? If, I have that right; Would a piece of flat stock be as good? A flat piece would not create a bottom pocket for water to sit in....?

Thanks, guys. This is why I started this journal. My questions and answers all in one place; and when the build gets started; pics and progress.

[Prem]

Prem- you're saying, put the angle on the outside,bottom of the wall and bolt through angle-wall-trailer frame..? If, I have that right; Would a piece of flat stock be as good? A flat piece would not create a bottom pocket for water to sit in....?

On the inside. You can turn the angle iron so that there's a leg of it on the floor, flush with the edge of the plywood floor and the other leg hangs down to carriage bolt the wall to. This is a different building technique, not in the chart. Exterior wall skin goes up first. The rest gets built in place.

See my second blue link below (ROUND TAIL) for the photos and back story. I bolted the plywood wall to the angle iron with leg DOWN for the first two-thirds of the floor and then UP for the flat part of the tail. Works well. Works fast. Definitely stronger than gluing and screwing wood walls to the wood floor. 1/4" hot-dipped galvanized carriage bolts, locks and nuts...or SS.

You have to decide, given your plans and work space, if this technique would be better for your needs. It beats standard techniques for strength. If your design is small, it might slow you down.

Prem

[Billy K]

... I went to the ad Carter has in the 'for sale' thread and studied the extra pics he posted...

It looks like a 1" wall will fit between the tire and frame. I'll attach that portion with the deck screws suggested by Jim, with a 1x3 trim glued and screwed over the bottom edge (actually the whole profile).

Will this create a strong enough "box"?
... the front bulkhead, spars, cabin and galley walls...
or, will I need to add more strength?

Unless you guys think it too light; the floor sandwich is still
1/8-3/4-1/8 (insulated). That would give another row of wall to trailer screws. Probably 1.5" drywall screws for that row.

[aggie79]

Unless you guys think it too light; the floor sandwich is still
1/8-3/4-1/8 (insulated).

It will be strong enough, but I wouldn't recommend standing on it during your build.

[Carter]

Billy,
What you are talking about is exactly what I was thinking. Glue screw the walls to the floor and deck screw to the frame. I would think it would be plenty strong and light.

I contacted Dow when I built mine and they suggested Liquid Nails to sandwich the pink foam with the plywood. It's pretty cheap in a gallon can and easy to apply to the plywood with a notched trowel. After it's cured it is very strong. Epoxy might be the best choice though because it would waterproof the wood. I build model airplane wings that way with thin balsa and white foam and they are amazingly strong and light.

I haven't found a good source for 1/8" plywood. The luan from Home Depot or Lowes is about 3/16" and inexpensive. Probably a 10 pound per sheet penalty over the 1/8" and plenty good enough for the floor and outside skin on the flats. Doesn't bend very easy for any curved surfaces.

Jim

[Billy K]

OK...the 3/16 luan is a good thought. Not sure I could find 1/8 close to home but; hd is close enough. Also have Maynerd's and the home improvement place, in town.

I've got a long way to go in planning and replanning but, this is all good.

I should start where I am I guess..

Plans are to pick up the trailer around the 22 of April.

I'll need to paint, wire, install jacks and a spare tire rack/carrier.

I'm going to a junk yard for the spare tire and jacks. Any ideas on what kind of scissor jacks would work well with the 15" rims? Toyota,Ford, full size or compact vehicle jacks?

I'm thinking 10 ga for all the regular tail lights and signals. Then, I'd run 8ga from the battery (on the tongue) to a bus bar in the galley. 12ga from the bar to each light or 12v socket.

right track or over wired ???

[Wolffarmer]

Billy

If you are still thinking of making your galley with 1/2 hatch and barn doors on the bottom, that is something like what i did.

I have a bunch of pics posted in my gallery. Point to a pic and some explanation will pop up.

Randy