So, after some thought and drawing about 10 different versions of a standie trailer, I found plans for a trailer named Tourabout. It is in an old issue of Modern Mechanix from 1937. I'm sure some of you have seen it (it's highly possible it is on this forum somewhere and that might be where I saw it).
Anyway, I based my final design on it, with a few revisions. Kathy and I wanted to keep the trailer simple in some areas (I didn't want to install any plumbing) and made the design fit our wants and needs.
There will a small bathroom with a chemical toilet-no shower or sink. The kitchen will have a couple of water containers in an upper cabinet with a valve to draw water for cooking and washing dishes. The kitchen sink with have no faucets, just a drain going to a 5-gallon container than can be emptied by a tree.
I've put several AC outlets for a fridge (electric only), microwave and a small air conditioner. The AC will be mounted on drawer slides so it can be pushed out when running, then pulled back in flush with the outside of the trailer.
Hauled this well-used trailer to my house with my Ford Ranger. My little Ranger didn't like it much. Trailer too heavy!
I backed the trailer into my driveway and immediately, 2 tires went flat. They were completely trashed with the steel bands sticking out. Not the proper tires for a trailer. Sometimes I have more luck than brains...
Demo has begun. Pulled all the copper wire out of the walls and ditched the insulation.
When the front was removed, I was able to collapse the whole shootin' match. Sorted out the wood from the aluminum. Copper and aluminum were recycled and the wood went to a local mulch supplier.
Down to the deck. Cut it apart with my trusty sawsall. This tool is a necessity for any self-respecting demo dude or dudette.
Started to sandblast the trailer frame and quit. My big air compressor gave out. The rings are worn out. So, I painted the frame with rust-conversion paint (it neutralizes the iron oxide), then painted it with good ol' Rustoleum.
I added four levelers so we can level and steady this bad boy. I simply used steel glue (better known as welding) to attach them to the frame.
New deck build. This is overkill for sure, but I like my floors flat. I cut out the bottom skin and added the ribs.
I put form-core insulation between the ribs, cut out the top skin and glued the sandwich together on a dead-flat worktop that I built. I used 60 lb. buckets of driveway tar to weight the whole mess down. When the glue dries, you've got a flat panel that will never twist or warp. This photo shows some of the insulation in place and shows how I glued the ribs to the bottom skin before putting the whole thing together.
I created tongue-and-groove joints where the panels will be joined together once they're in place on the trailer. Panel adhesive and 3" screws will pull it all together.
A dry-fit of the four deck panels. That's 17' fore and aft and 92" wide. This trailer is 7' longer and almost 3' wider than my first homemade trailer. It will be 75" high inside.
Spraying undercoating on the bottoms of the panels. Another coat and they're good to go. I want to sell the RV you see to the left. Anyone interested?
This is my rendering of what I hope will be our new trailer.
Another view.
Winter is coming and my search for a building with a 10'-high garage door was futile, so, I moved the deck into my double garage. I will build the trailer on the leveled deck this winter, then take it apart and put it back together on the trailer frame in the Spring. (At least that's the theory.) I've started the framing
The back wall is tilted forward 6.3 degrees and is also curved. I traced the curve from the deck, then made the cut on my band saw. Here I'm sanding the edges smooth.
Back to the band saw to cut the inner curve, creating a 2-1/2"-wide curved board. This is one of the window framers.
The assembled back wall. The top cap is made, I just haven't attached it to the framing yet. I'm debating whether to use plexiglas, lexan (or similar material) to create two curved back windows.
This is looking from the front to the back of the trailer framing.
This is from the back looking to the front of the trailer framing. All the curved corner pieces have been fitted and installed. I keep wondering how I'm going to get this out of my garage...
Wiring the 110V. My bifocals give my neck some exercise!
I'm starting to skin the exterior. This has caused me some agonizing thoughts in terms of wheather to use metal or go with exterior plywood. Plywood is winning out as I'm not a sheet-metal worker. The compound curves on top? I'm thinking cloth and fiberglas.
I like the overall design and went with it, even though I knew the challenge would be those pesky curves. I'm a cabinetmaker and furniture maker and writer of woodworking articles by trade, but this is something new in the way of fabrication. I keep telling myself to remember why I'm doing this. That would be the awesome trips we've got planned with this small beast. Not sure what to name her yet...
I've decided to name her Phoenix. She's rising out of a pile of wood, metal and sweat. I found this illustration on the internet and redrew it using Adobe Illlustrator. I think it would look good on the finished trailer.
In order to bend the 1/4"-think plywood, I grabbed a rag and a bucket of water and soaked both sides of the plywood. Then, turning the plywood good side up, I clamped it between two sticks and tightened the clamps. The wood will bend easily, without cracking. I let this dry overnight. The plywood springs back about halfway, but the wood fibers have been stretched sufficiently so it's easily bent and installed.
I've started "skinning" the exterior of the coach. I'm using panel adhesive and screws to attach the 1/4"-thick exterior-grade plywood. To attach the radiused pieces, I started on the left side of the panel and installed screws every 5" bottom to top. Then I was able to bend the plywood and screw the other edge in place. Note the vertical blocks holding the panel flush with the bottom of the deck. These are my third and fourth hands while wrestling the panels in place.
After the panel adhesive has set, I used my trimmer router with a flush-cutting bit to cut out the window openings. Drill a hole, insert the router bit and start routing.
The outside skinning is almost finished. The radiused parts worked well and were fairly easy to install. The interior radiused corners are another matter. Still working on that solution.
Hope you get well soon.