1977 Pop Up Camper Rebuild

[TheThom]

Hey guys,

This is different than most of the threads here. 1) I'm hoping to make this into an off-raid, boondock savvy pop-up. 2) I can't weld. I can work the wood OK, but metal working and auto mechanic-ness is not my bag, baby 3) I'm rebuilding a pop-up camper that will also function as a gear hauler.

I've benefited a lot from reading others' builds here, so I figured I'd post a brief version of mine. The long version can be found [url="http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=54139.0"]here[/url]

It started w/ a 1977 Starcraft Starflite 6 that I got off craigslist. It turns out that I overpaid a bit, but I don't have a time machine so there's not much to do about it. Here are some of the original pics.





I originally was planning on just redoing the cabinets, the thing turned out to be a rotted piece of crap . .. . . errr junk.

So I started to tear it down (seriously, look how bad this is). I tore it apart. After removing the trim, it just fell apart.



I tore it all the way down to the frame



I replaced the original axle with a 3500lb Dexter axle w/ electric brakes that I got form a local vendor. I put a 2" lift on my '01 Jeep Cherokee and gave it bigger tires (31"). I then put the 27" OEM wheels/tires on the trailer. Side bar: the tires were too wide to fit onto the current frame and I had to hire a welder to widen a portion of the frame. The welder also attached 4 stabilizer jacks and a dual propane tank mount onto the tongue.



I wired up the trailer brakes and installed a trailer break-away switch





Then I purchased some ACX for the floor (I plan to make it look like a mock-hardwood floor). I had to join 3 boards to make them fit to the correct size- used a biscuit jointer





Then I cut and assembled some wheel wells. I used Marine 3M 5200 Adhesive. Then I tacked with a finish nailer and firmed it up with pocket screws.



The 2x2 you see in the above pics are going to be the sill for the walls.

Next post will discuss my future plans a bit.

I've flipped it and put on the first coat of CPES.

Peace out

Thom

[TheThom]

My current plans. I plan on boondocking in a few areas that are well inhabited by bears. That is guiding almost every decision I make regarding the set-up of various camper features.

Water: I'm not going to have a water tank/water pump. I don't plan on doing much inside the camper involving water (see bears). I found some NATO water cans on ebay and plan to mount 2 to the front and 1 on the back using some LandCruiser mounts I also found on ebay





I'll also have a blue 5 GAL can w/ faucet spout that I bought from WalMart a few months ago.

Heat: I purchased a little buddy heater and have an extension hose run to it from the propane tank on the tongue. During a couple of test runs at the local state park (which was WAY too manicured) it worked really well.

Kitchen: I hope to make a chuck box like some of the awesome ones [url="http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box?highlight=kitchen"]here[/url] I don't plan on doing any cooking inside the camper (see bears).

Toilet: still to be determined. That's the wife's biggest hang-up. I'll likely go with something like the Luggable Loo.

My hope is to have this be a Gear Hauler/PUP. I'm going to have all of the bench storage areas with access hatches from the outside. I have an early sketchup image. Since then I've changed where I'm going to put the water cans (hopefully having 2 in the front will reduce sway).



Here's the spare tire mount that I found on ebay



Here's a (very) rough layout of what the back wall will look like



Currently, no plans to add shocks. I can add them later if needed. I have no idea what the current or final weight is/will be. Lighter is better

I'm still not sure what the color should be. My Jeep is red, but that's A LOT of red if the whole camper were as well. I ordered a new canvas which is tan and my water cans are tan. Currently, I'm thinking of going with Olive Drab with a tan roof. The underside will be coated w/ CPES and bed-liner (Grizzly Grip). The sides will likely be coated w/ thin aluminum and then painted

[working on it]

auto mechanic-ness is not my bag

Hello TheThom, you are doing very well for being non-mechanically oriented. Switching axles and wiring is no small task. I'm impressed with your e-bay finds as well. I don't have your luck or skill at acquiring such good stuff from there. And I can't even draw a straight line in sketchup. Keep it coming...!

[TheThom]

After 3 coats of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant (CPES) here's what the underside of the floor looked like



Then I coated it with Grizzly Grip roll on bedliner (this pic taken while the 3rd coat was drying



I know there's a lot of debate out there regarding the various bed-liner products. Obviously I have no idea how this will hold up, but it sure seems strong to me.

Here's a close-up of the texture - this view is from the inside of a wheel well. The flash made it look gray, but it's a gloss/semi-gloss black. I went with "fine" instead of "coarse" texture.



Now I need to procure a buddy to help me flip it over. Then I'll screw it down to the frame.

Slow and steady wins the race, right?

[deceiver]

I've got that same model/year popup. It's been in the family since I was much younger. It's in near mint condition. my niece has it now. Garaged in central Maine. It is a nice, heavy popup. You need and SUV or at the time big old Oldsmobile 88 to tow it.

Good start on your build. You've got a good chassis to start off with.

[TheThom]

I've got that same model/year popup. It's been in the family since I was much younger. It's in near mint condition. my niece has it now. Garaged in central Maine. It is a nice, heavy popup. You need and SUV or at the time big old Oldsmobile 88 to tow it.

Good start on your build. You've got a good chassis to start off with.

Thanks! I'm hoping for the rebuild to not be over-the-top heavy. Where do you think the weight in the original model came from? I'm a bit nervous because I'm using beefier wood for the sides and I know that'll add up.

The new one won't look much like the last one.

[deceiver]

I don't know. it has lots of particle board and plywood in it and cupboards/sink/benches. Don't forget the roof. When cranking it up you can tell it's a lot of weight. And the trailer is pretty good sized, fairly wide. And if you look at the frame you can see that they didn't skimp on the axel and hubs. lots of metal.

[TheThom]

Making a little progress.

I got the floor flipped back over and screwed in with ~100 Self-tapping 1.5" metal screws. Before I had flipped is over, I drilled countersink holes along the frame using a chalk line. Out of of 101 screws 5 or 6 missed - not too terrible. It went really fast already having the holes countersunk.

Then I filled the holes and sanded.

After that I cut and laid out the "footprint" pieces where the bench seats and cabinets will be.



I marked the location and then moved them to stain. I got some warning from guys on this site that the stain might come out splotchy but it was OK on a test piece. Came out a bit splotchy, but once cabinets and benches are in, it won't be so bad. (BTW, the camera makes it look worse than it does with the naked eye)



I kind of looks funny because I only stained the floor in the living space of the camper


That square piece in the middle is there to support the base of my removable pedestal table.

The floor of all the storage areas is going to be covered with more roll on bed-liner (Grizzly Grip). I really liked the way it worked on the under surface.

Next step is to screw down those footprint pieces and then apply varathane floor finish to the whole floor (lots of coats) to seal it. Decided to go this way instead of CPES for a few reasons. The biggest reason is that CPES takes so long to dry and for the interior of the camper, I think an oil based floor finish should be enough.

Peace out

Thom

[BillZ]

Looks great! Do you plan on re-attaching the old pop up top to it?

[TheThom]

Looks great! Do you plan on re-attaching the old pop up top to it?

I'm making new walls and doors. I purchased a new canvas to replace the old rotted one. Currently, the roof is in good shape and I plan to re-use it.

So, it'll basically be a from-scratch pop up with a 1977 Starcraft frame, lift system, and canvas.

[TheThom]

Well, I was officially talked into using CPES on the floor as well which means I've been watching paint dry. That gave me some time to update my sketchup figures. I got the wheels and tongue all proportioned. The only things that aren't accurate are that I don't have the lights, propane tanks or license plate holders on it yet.


This is the view from the rear passenger side.


Front Driver's side view


View looking down into box. The rear bench storage will be accessible from the long narrow hatches at the rear.

The front cabinet by the door will be accessible from the hatch next to the door. That's where I plan to store my chuck box.

The front low cabinet will hold my Camp Chef Explorer stove and serve as a step up into that bed.

The far cabinet will have the battery, switches, (you can see the little rectangular panel), fuses, etc as well as a place to store pillows, towels, bedding, lanterns, etc - pretty much all of the things I wouldn't want getting dirty.

I've got a double propane tank mount welded to the tongue (sits just between the water cans).

I sourced out metal siding. I decided to order flat aluminum and roll on bed-liner. I fell like that will give it the gear hauler/PUP look rather than the entry level RV. There's a local heating place that also cuts and bends metal. I'm looking at ~$300ish which is a lot, but about what I expected to get new, custom cut/bent sheet aluminum to cover the sides with.

I'm still mulling over colors. It's between gray and olive drab. Votes?

I'm deploying for the summer in a few weeks so I'm trying to acquire as many parts as possible before I go.

Peace out

Thom

[TheThom]

So, even though I'm a while away from needing it, I ended up getting some aluminum for the sides. I was looking around and a local place was able to do it with <24hr turnaround. I didn't want to lose the good quote and rapport I had with the guy that worked there. Good tip: if you need aluminum cut/bent, go to a heating place. There was a local company that makes their own duct work.

Please excuse the grainy cell phone pics. This is the panel for the door in the front storage compartment





I'm pretty impressed with the work they did. I got siding for all 4 sides and for each of the doors (1 main door and 3 storage compartment doors) cut and bent to fit the dimensions I need for $300. Expensive, but the quality should make it worth it. There's no way I could've duplicated the quality they showed.

[TheThom]

Now that the CPES has fully cured, I glued/screwed down the "footprint" for the outline of the cabinets and bench seats. Everything in the middle will get several coats of Varathane Floor finish. Everything outside of it will be coverd /w roll-on bedliner. NOTE I sanded the epoxy before installing so the glue could hold - that's why it looks so scuffed





NOTE #2 Please ignore my horribly messy garage

NOTE #3: this will probably be the last update on this site. I think the teardrop folks like to follow teardrop builds. I'll still pop by for questions and advice. Thank you in advance.

[KCStudly]

I think one of the nice things about this site is the attitude of (most) of the people and their acceptance of other people doing their own thing their own way (while always offering input and suggestions about what has worked for themselves and others).

I am enjoying following along with the very fine job you are doing on the camper, and hope that you continue to share the rest of your build with us.

[crumbruiser]

Like KC, I hope you continue to share your build with us. I do know what you mean though about the TearDrop folks being TearDrop folks. My build thread doesn't get many comments but, lots of people must enjoy looking through it. Maybe they don't comment because they think we're doing things right?
Frank