5ft Weekender build in Indianapolis

[IndyCubby]

Well, it has begun! I got the itch for a project one evening about a week ago and got on the forum here to look around at designs....by the next evening, I had acquired a trailer (craigslist find). My last teardrop was a 4x8 Cubby on a HF trailer....this one will be a 5ft Weekender.

The last week has been spent refurbishing this old trailer. It's a 5(ish)x8 ft made from 2x3 box welded steel....very sturdy....on a Dexter axle. I got a good deal on it I think. After replacing all the bearings, seals, wheels/tires, wiring, lighting, safety chain and priming/painting, I have $350 in it.

The night I picked it up...this was after removing several hundred pounds of rotten plywood flooring and sides made from heavy 2x6's....



After all the work on the trailer...



Yesterday we finished the floor (currently the asphalt coating is drying)....today we will bolt it on and keep going...






As of now, the plan is to have 3/4" plywood side walls and an insulated roof.....the jury is still out, though, on sidewall thickness. I don't want the walls to bow at all down the road and the doors to be nice and solid (hence the choice of 3/4"), but I found some very nice 5ply 1/2" for just a little more $$ yesterday, so I may end up going that route.

Any tips for using a biscuit planer to join plywood? Need 10ft sheets for the sides and only 8' available locally. Can 1/2" plywood be successfully joined?

[pohukai]

For longer or wider pieces of ply, I used a 3 wing cutter on the router and a spline http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=34381 running the full length of the joint.

The cutter I got at Harbor Freight and the spine is a 1" piece of luan. It worked out well for me. I have a few pictures in my build link.

Jim

[IndyCubby]

Ah that's a great idea. Thanks so much. My neighbor gave me his biscuit joiner to use and a bag full of biscuits, but this might be a better way to do it....looks like it might make a stronger joint.

[les45]

I used 3/4" ply for sidewalls and a 1" lap joint to get the 10' length for my weekender. Made the splice at the centerline of the doors so the exposed joint was minimal. If the extra weight is not an issue, I would highly recommend 3/4" over 1/2". It makes a very straight and sturdy shell.
Larry S.

[pappaw]

a nice looking frame, like your Mini too.

cheers

[KCStudly]

You can biscuit 1/2 inch ply and it comes out very sturdy. In fact I wonder if the full spline might not be weaker since the "flap" has the potential to be pried on along its full length. With the interrupted biscuits, the same prying action would act on the undisturbed areas like a fulcrum, tending to put the biscuits in tension rather than bending.

Just my thoughts, and not sure if they are valid...haven't tested. I do know that the plywood joints I have made for bench tops and such, where the biscuits were spaced every 6-8 inches or so, and fully glued, came out very strong.

[IndyCubby]

Thanks guys. I ended up getting 3/4" plywood for the sides. My neighbor loaned me his router and his biscuit joiner. I didn't have the correct bit for the router, so I decided to go with the biscuits seeing as he supplied me with a bag of biscuits and glue.



Tomorrow I'll measure and cut out the sides.

I'm considering using CPES to treat the wood prior to painting as it seems to be the preferred method these days. What quantity should I order? Alternatively, I went ahead and got a supply of wood waterproofer (basically Thompsons, but a different brand) in case I wanted to go that route. Any thoughts on using several coats of that instead?

Another thought.....I read somewhere that thinned down Polyurethane (25% poly to 75% mineral spirits) makes a good water proofer that soaks in well. Thoughts?

[IndyCubby]

a nice looking frame, like your Mini too.

cheers

Thanks. You'd be surprised how well a MINI can tow. I have a utility trailer that I've hauled motorcycles across the country on .....as well as lumber for building decks, a sailboat, and I moved a piano (twice). The driving experience/handling is very addictive....this is my second one in a row.

[KCStudly]

On the Foamie forum we call 50/50 poly/thinner "The Mixture". It is gaining some traction, and I have found other references to this method in other woodworking venues online. However, there was one reported incident about some concern that the new water based glues that the plywood manufacturers are using might be degraded by the high concentration of thinner.

I bought water and boil proof (WBP) marine spec Okuome plywood and do intent to use the mixture, but have not yet. Also, despite spending good money on the spec ply, I have still seen some areas on the cut edges that had delamination; definitely less than 1 or 2% of the total linear edge. It was my intent to inject glue into these areas prior to use, however, due to changes in weather (temperature and humidity) the areas of concern are not always obvious; they go into hiding.

Gives me pause for concern and makes me think that there is no free lunch and there are exceptions to every rule.

But that is just negative talk. Whatever you do, it will be better than doing nothing. Just build it and you will be happier than if you didn't.

[IndyCubby]

July 4th was a busy day in the garage. Got the sides cut out, mounted up, and many of the spars and nailers in place. I marked out the locations for the doors, but then started considering the purchase of prefab doors....so I didn't cut them out. Thinking on it overnight, I just can't bring myself to spend the $$ even though they sure would save time and be easier. I may change my mind, but for now, the decision is that the doors will be homemade






There's still some framing left to do in the front end....waiting to figure out how I want to configure an AC install up there. It will either ride low (basically on the tongue) and utilize some ducting for intake/exhaust....or it will ride higher and have some sort of a cargo door to slide out of with the unit on sliders. Haven't figured that all out yet. First order of business is getting my hands on a little 5000 btu unit to build around...problem is that retailers are all out of them around here. It's been incredibly HOT here in Indiana the last couple of weeks and they are all sold out. May have to order online.

I've been following les45's build and like his galley hatch design, so I'm planning on doing something similar (hope you don't mind Larry )

The jury is still out for the waterproofing technique. Thinking about experimenting with some thinned down polyurethane on some plywood scraps to see how they react.....want to make sure there's no plywood glue interaction with all the solvent.

[les45]

Hey Indy, feel free to "borrow" any ideas you see on my build. That is what the forum is all about. FWIW I used CPES after a lot of research on waterproofing the plywood skins. From what I read, the CPES does a better job of getting deep into the wood and protecting it. I'm not at home right now (on vacation) so I don't recall how much I bought, but it was more than enough. I ended up putting four coats on before I started fiberglassing my edges. It really goes a long way. Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions about the rest of the build. I'm itching to get back home this weekend to start the painting.

[Vedette]

Your build looks great so far!

[Kharn]

I'm leaning towards a higher AC and slide-out cargo door when I get around to building a Weekender. If it slides, you can easily remove it for cold weather or when you will not have 120v power so you get more storage space, plus it will not be blocked by your pillow or be blowing directly on your head. Check your local RV dealers, see if you can get a parts catalog from them as it will include an assortment of "baggage doors" that should have one or two that will work.

[IndyCubby]

I'm leaning towards a higher AC and slide-out cargo door when I get around to building a Weekender. If it slides, you can easily remove it for cold weather or when you will not have 120v power so you get more storage space, plus it will not be blocked by your pillow or be blowing directly on your head. Check your local RV dealers, see if you can get a parts catalog from them as it will include an assortment of "baggage doors" that should have one or two that will work.

I'm kind of leaning that direction with the higher mount AC for the reasons you mention....but I kind of like the idea of having it there all the time and not having to deal with setting it up each time. Also, I may "need" the weight on the tongue. This frame was already pretty well balanced front/back and moving the axle wasn't really an option without alot of hassle (and welding). Even now without the galley components added, the tongue is very light and my concern is that I'll need something on the front to keep it stable at speed. A spare mounted on the tongue could add some weight as would a battery. My thought was to somehow permanantly mount the AC at about the level of the floor in front and not have any of the AC unit exposed inside the cabin, but rather have it somehow ducted upward and in/out through the shelf/headboard/storage area.....a shroud of some sort could be built around it with some small doors that could be opened in order to vent the exterior half of the unit. I don't know.....may be getting too complicated. I'll probably wait until the trailer is more together and see what my tongue weight is actually going to be before figuring it out.

Regarding the baggage doors....there's an RV surplus/salvage place up near my hometown. I should take a pic of this place.....buildings full of parts and outdoor crates all over the property full of windows and baggage doors! The trick is digging through to find the right size. If you find what you are after, though, you are rewarded with low prices!

[cop1406]

Nice build so far. I have a MINI also. It is my pride and joy so I probably won't set it up to tow but I love driving it. I will be watching your thread as it seems to be coming together fast and furious.

P.S. you can see my car in my thread....

Larry