Starting My Pico-lite Build Today...

[djoyner]

I'm off to HF to pick up the trailer, then to Lowe's to pick up some plywood for the floor and walls. I'm building a Pico-lite to pull behind my Goldwing on my cross-country roadtrips. On my past roadtrips, I have stayed in hotels/motels along the route. However, I've decided to change my MO and will be 'taking my lodging with me' on future roadtrips (I'm planning a Pacific Northwest roadtrip in June of 2013).

My build will basically be a sleeper with inside dimensions of 38" wide, 76" long and about 48" tall. My plan is to keep the build weight under 325# and a the total (packed) weight under #400, which would allow me carry a tube tent (for additional outside living space) and some minimal cooking supplies.

I have spent a lot of time reading the great articles/posts on this wonderful site and have gained a wealth of knowledge, which has inspired me to undertake this build.

I should be posting the first pics of this build on tomorrow.

[wolgie]

Have fun and good luck. My advice, don't wear flip flops when building, do wear gloves when working with wood ( at one point I had more splinters than actual skin) and have lots of beer on hand. Enjoy!

[djoyner]

wolgie, thanks for the safety tips...I will make sure my hands and feet are properly covered!

I was able to get a few things accomplished in the last 24 hours:

Here is the HF mini trailer that will be the basis of my build (40 x 48 with 12" wheels) I removed the small leaf spring to hopefully help reduce the bounce:



I was able to get the floor (3/8 Plywood) cut and framed (next I need to determine how to weatherproof/seal it):



I was also able to get the walls (3/8 Plywood) rough-cut with the jig-saw; next step is to finish it with the belt sander:



Here's a mockup with the cardboard template I used to cut the walls:

[djoyner]

Here's a pic of the underside of the floor painted with exterior paint:





Here's a pic of the inside dry fitted:





Here's a pic of the right side dry fitted:




A pic of the left side with the doorway cut out:

[Chess]

Looking good, I built a Pico that I extended by 14'', really must put bigger wheels on it they look far better.

[djoyner]

Looking good, I built a Pico that I extended by 14'', really must put bigger wheels on it they look far better.

Thanks Chess. I agree, larger wheels look better and take potholes and road imperfections a lot easier too.

[djoyner]

Here are a couple more pics after applying stain and installing fenders. Waiting on delivery of windows this week.

[Red Rider]

Build looks good. I fear I am already at around 400# now. For the skin on mine i used RFP from Lowes or Home Depot. It is $25 for a 4x8 sheet. It bends really easy. You have to paint it because it is not UV rated, but the texture looks nice.

[djoyner]

Build looks good. I fear I am already at around 400# now. For the skin on mine i used RFP from Lowes or Home Depot. It is $25 for a 4x8 sheet. It bends really easy. You have to paint it because it is not UV rated, but the texture looks nice.

RedRider, I've been trying to decide on what material to use for the roof.

I am seriously considering FRP as well.

Are you using glue and screws to attach the roof or just adhesive?

Thanks for the pic.

[bobhenry]

Saw you on your towing with a motorcycle thread. I to built a 4x7 for the Goldwing and hope you will allow me to offer some points I found out.

I too built on the 40 x 48 with 12" tires and tow with an 86 GL1200. After getting the body on and attempting to tow it ,it scared the s$%%T out of me. It was a bear to handle on rough (pot holed) roads. It was as if some one grabbed the bars every time a tire hit an obstruction.I immediatly went and purchased 8'6" of 3/16 wall square tube and bolted it to each and every crossmember leaving a tiny stub at the rear for a class 2 (1 1/4) drawbar. The almost 3 foot extention of the tongue completely eliminated the shakes that were telegraphing thru the frame to the ball on the bike. The stub also allowed for an accessory rack or a bicycle rack which helped to balance out the tongue weight as needed. I later found the 12" tires had the trailer to far nosed down for my liking and I opted for 8" tires dropping the towing height enough to arrive at almost level but still just slightly nose down. This change also improved the handling noticably. It was fun to tow and I loved the double takes as I rode past my fellow motorist. I later utilized the same frame for my chuckwagon build so pics are in the album.

Here is a pic of Eggbert

Look kinda familiar ??

[djoyner]

Saw you on your towing with a motorcycle thread. I to built a 4x7 for the Goldwing and hope you will allow me to offer some points I found out.

I too built on the 40 x 48 with 12" tires and tow with an 86 GL1200. After getting the body on and attempting to tow it ,it scared the s$%%T out of me. It was a bear to handle on rough (pot holed) roads. It was as if some one grabbed the bars every time a tire hit an obstruction.I immediatly went and purchased 8'6" of 3/16 wall square tube and bolted it to each and every crossmember leaving a tiny stub at the rear for a class 2 (1 1/4) drawbar. The almost 3 foot extention of the tongue completely eliminated the shakes that were telegraphing thru the frame to the ball on the bike. The stub also allowed for an accessory rack or a bicycle rack which helped to balance out the tongue weight as needed. I later found the 12" tires had the trailer to far nosed down for my liking and I opted for 8" tires dropping the towing height enough to arrive at almost level but still just slightly nose down. This change also improved the handling noticably. It was fun to tow and I loved the double takes as I rode past my fellow motorist. I later utilized the same frame for my chuckwagon build so pics are in the album.

Here is a pic of Eggbert

Look kinda familiar ??

bobhenry, thanks for the pointers and yes, Eggbert looks very familiar!

I have an '85 GL1200 Interstate, but I only have a hitch on my '95 GL1500. I plan to purchase a 36" tongue extension from Redtrailers.com. This will provide a total tongue length of approximately 90". I've read that the total distance from axle to hitch coupler should be roughly 2 1/2 times the distance between the center of the trailer wheels. As soon as I get the roof installed, I plan to take the trailer on a 'shakedown run' to see how well it tracks behind the bike.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

[djoyner]

Here a few more pics with windows dry-fitted and inside stained. Next steps are to decide on and install roof material, and hang door.

[Aladinbama]

I realize that this is an old thread, but what ever happened to this build?
I am interested in how you spaced your 76" across the 48" trailer. How much ahead and how much behind?
Looks pretty awesome, I hope you got it finished and all the bumps smoothed out!