Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Dec 19, 2012 3:40 am

Well, FINALLY I'm getting a build thread started. Have had some pics posted for a while, but haven't actually gotten around to getting an actual build thread started. Like many, I was a "lurker" for some time before joining back in October of this year. While already having a vintage Aristocrat 13' for camping, I was looking for something smaller and more "towable" with my PT Cruiser. Since available "mini" campers are ridiculously expensive, I was overjoyed to find the TnTTT site!

Back in October, I got my Harbor Freight folder, and assembled it. Here are a series of pics showing the assembly of the trailer, and my black paint job [everyone on TNTT very fortunately advised me that it would fade to pink in a short period of time if i left it red]. After full assembly and attachment of the spare tire and jack stand, I was all ready to use my 2004 PT Cruiser TV to make a run to the forest green big box store [Sutherland's] and purchase lumber and assorted building stuff! :D

98707987089871098711987129871398714

A couple of days after I got supplies purchased and stored, [did not have time to start on build yet] a bunch of my TPS [trailer parts stuff!] arrived courtesy of the UPS man. Bought it all from Bottom Dollar Surplus on Ebay, and was very satisfied with the price and quality.

The first picture shows an Atwood electrical charge/converter panel, 48X22 window [with emergency release feature], 29x24 window, roof vent w/fan, water inlet, sink faucet w/shower head, battery shut off, rear hatch light, cabin ceiling light, & twin reading lights. Second pic shows 43x23 round top cargo door, two 38x30 cargo doors, 24x16 wall vent for AC condenser air intake [in front of doors]. Since it will be a 4x8 super simple [no front roof rake] I will only be using one of the 38x30 cargo doors, as I will be using the 43x23 for ingress/egress and the 38x30 as a galley hatch.

9871598716

Finally, I got around to actually starting the build! Here the 3/8 plywood [roadside] bottom of the floor frame has been attached to peripheral 2x2s and given 2 coats of Rustoleum Undercoating.

100307

Oh, and I guess a few photos of my "shop" would be in order. Here are photos of my radial arm saw, Delta table saw [close and long], stored lumber, and stored insulation.

100308100309100310100311100312

I flipped over the floor frame, and began working on the top part. I used 2x4s laterally, and 1x2s longitudinally to connect together as a floor frame. The radial arm saw was invaluable in cutting all to correct lengths.

100313100314100315100316

After finishing the frame, I flipped the floor frame back over to use a multiplicity of #8 decking screws to firmly secure the bottom to the internal frame. I then applied a number of coats of Sta Kool elastometric roof coating to all of the frame areas. Turns out that, later, I would have to remove the coating on the lateral bonding surface so that the walls would glue up properly :x

100317100318100320100321100322100323100324

After completing work on the floor frame, I placed it back on the trailer in preparation for attaching it to the trailer with carriage bolts. Being done for the day, the whole project was rolled back into the garage. Oh, and note the neat trailer dolly from HF tools that I am using to roll the trailer around. Very handy and on sale for about 50 bucks!

100326100327

Well, here it is another day, and it looks like time to start work on permanently [I hope! :worship: ] mounting the floor frame to the trailer. I'm using 3/8 carriage bolts, wide washers, and countersinking them so that they do not interfere with the installation of the 3/4 plywood floor later on down the road.

100483100484100485

After the bolt on job is complete, liberal amounts of Sta Kool are used to seal up the bolting areas.

100487

Next, we start work on the walls! I will have my door on the driver's side, and a big window on the curb side. Yeah, I know, traditionally the door, if there's only one, goes on the curb side; but hey, that 's why we build CUSTOM trailers! Like Burger King, I can have it MY WAY! :thumbsup:

The curb side wall will have a large 48 inch long window [a la Paul Arnold's Wanderlust, but on the curb side]. It will also have a cut out for an air conditioning vent in the lower rear quarter. The vent will allow cooling air to be drawn in by the A/C's condenser fan, and the condenser output will be channeled out the rear of the camper via a to be installed cargo door. Here, the outlines are made: [Note, all outlines are on the inside walls, items will actually be mounted from the other side.]

100488100489

The driver's side wall will have an entrance door in front, and a small window toward the rear. Here, they are outlined and set for cut out:

100490100491100492100493

Here, the actual cutouts of the driver's side wall are made, the items are test fitted, and the wall section stored away for future use:

100599100600100601

Another day, another project on the trailer! Here I am getting ready to work on the starboard [curb] side wall as my friend Jim works at getting that Sta Kool off of the lateral bonding surfaces of the floor frame.

100602100624100625100626

Here, the 48 inch window cutout is completed, and the window is test fitted. I am reserving the cut out of the A/C vent for another day, as I am not sure that I will want to use that specific vent. It is MUCH larger than needed, and I may go with something smaller.


100627100629

Well, today is early Wednesday, 19 December. We've had good weather recently, but it's all suppose to go to Hades in a hand basket tonight, as a winter storm with heavy snow and high winds is forcast for all of eastern Kansas. :cry: Will be spending the daylight hours today retrieving my Bronco 4WD from out at Lake Perry, and getting ready for lots of snow. Got the snowblower prepped yesterday afternoon with fresh gas, and am ready to rock. Hopefully I can get back on my build sometime this weekend, or at least by this time next week. :twisted:
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Junkboy999 » Wed Dec 19, 2012 4:13 am

Looking good so far. :thumbsup:


Hope you don’t get snowed in. It gonna miss Wichita I think.
User avatar
Junkboy999
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1259
Images: 52
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2012 9:18 pm
Location: Wichita, KS

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Shadow Catcher » Wed Dec 19, 2012 6:16 am

Looks like a very good start. We are looking at 1"to 4" inches of snow so I know how you feel.
User avatar
Shadow Catcher
Donating Member
 
Posts: 5993
Images: 234
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:26 pm
Location: Metamora, OH
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Dec 19, 2012 12:21 pm

JB999: Yeah, you guys are supposed to miss all the fun! Talked to a buddy in Hutch this morning, and he thinks it will pass you guys by for sure. Us up here, somewhere between 3 to 5 inches is the going line. Got the snow blower out yesterday afternoon and got it tuned up and filled with fresh gas. Thanks for the encouragement, I'm going to try to get back on it this weekend, weather permitting.

Shadow Catcher: 3 to 5 inches is the going line for us in NE Kansas. Hope ya'll in the Buckeye state don't get too much, but hey, we both might have a white CHRISTMAS!!! How cool is that?!!! 8)
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:52 pm

Nothing happening today about 3 or so inches of SNOW :( on the ground from last night. Hope we might get a break in the weather this weekend [predicated, of course, on a null outcome with regard to the Mayan Apocalypse!]
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Mon Dec 24, 2012 6:05 pm

Yuk! Cold all weekend and today. Rest of the week does not look good either. Oh well, Merry Xmas to all, happy new year, and hopefully I can get some more done on this before too long!

8)
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby wagondude » Mon Jan 07, 2013 3:36 pm

I'll be watching this one. Your pretty close to me, so I may run into you at a campground sometime. Also look around for War Pony. He is from T-town, I believe.
Bill

TnTTT ORIGIONAL 200A LANTERN CLUB
101137
User avatar
wagondude
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1535
Images: 35
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:41 pm
Location: Land of the Jayhawks
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:07 am

Yo Wagondude! Hope I have this campable by spring. Guess it will depend on the weather!
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:31 am

Well hope everybody had a good Christmas and a happy New Year! It's finally warmed up a bit in T town, so Moi is back at it again! Here are some shots of the framing of the sides to accept insulation. These 1x2's will also work as furring strips for the attachment of the internal paneling.
101141101142101143

Whoa! Sides are now up and mounted. Sides were mounted to the floor frame with 3/8" carriage bolts and 3" #8 deck screws. Slabs of thick 1 1/2" foam insulation were placed in the cavities between the floor frame support members.
101144101145101147101148

As you can see, the door will be on the driver's side. Just a personal preference, and one of the things about building your own camper is that you can have it YOUR WAY! In the following pics, the floor is being installed, and 1 3/4" #8 deck screws were used for that purpose.
101149101150101151101152101153

Well, hopefully tomorrow, 1/9, will be fairly warm like today [50s] More cold at the end of the week though, and the weekend doesn't look too hot either!
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby bobhenry » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:42 am

D.T.

You and I have talked so you know where my heart is. I am not throwing rocks just want to offer a small suggestion. Take a 9" old dinner plate or a 5 gallon bucket and trace the radius on the front and rear top corners and see if you like the look. It should remove the shoe box look of the body and at this stage of the game would be a fairly simple alteration. You might look at the chuckwagon images in my album to see the framing alterations needed. It should mimic the rounded corners of the door and tie the look together.

Just a thought :roll:
Growing older but not up !
User avatar
bobhenry
Ten Grand Club
Ten Grand Club
 
Posts: 10355
Images: 2614
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:49 am
Location: INDIANA, LINDEN
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Jan 09, 2013 2:09 pm

Bob, I had thought about a Rimple early on, but did not have the space [vertically] on the rear to accommodate the hatch door for both the galley access and the breather hatch for the AC. Per your suggestion for curved ends, I'm thinking I could port the AC like one I saw on a Cabin Car on the forum. This guy had provided a port in the side of the camper,using a locking hatch of course, and would just pull the AC inside when traveling, pushing it out the opened door when camping. I'm thinking this might work....just roll the bedding up a bit to pull the AC in, lock the outside door, and away you go. Now for the roofing.....to make the curves, what do you think I could use to make the bends? I have a huge 108" x 18 foot sheet of 60 mil white rubberized roofing, but would need something for underlayment over the spars. Any ideas of what would be sturdy but still make the tight curves at the ends?

Thanks for all your help!
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby Doubltap » Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:01 pm

Ok Bob, here is the trailer with some curves, courtesy of an aluminum dog dish, radiused and blacked out on the starboard side. I am now thinking, if I don't actually do curves, I could black out "faux" curves at the top, maybe even larger than these! Measured for the side mount for the AC, and it will definitely work. Could do that, or mount it out front on the tongue, but I really want to put my water supply up there, and keep the AC and battery to the rear of the axle to balance the load. Still planning [and sometimes scheming!]
101158
When your outgo is more than your income, your upkeep will be your downfall !
User avatar
Doubltap
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 47
Images: 181
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:00 am
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby KCStudly » Wed Jan 09, 2013 4:35 pm

Maybe round the front (use thin ply backed by spars to follow the curve... bigger radius is easier to follow) and dart the rear like a deck spoiler with the radius facing the same as the front. that would preserve your AC space allocation, provide a little drip edge over your rear doors, and add some style w/o much trouble.

I think GPW has a sketch of something like what I am describing somewhere. Maybe he will pipe in.

Let me take a quick look at his gallery. Something like this Image

Except with a radius from the vertical back wall curving up to the rear roof over hang. (Though part of the original concept shown is to create a draft affect that may increase fuel economy, so maybe just copy it outright?)

$.02
KC
My Build: The Poet Creek Express Hybrid Foamie

Poet Creek Or Bust
Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
TnTTT ORIGINAL 200A LANTERN CLUB = "The 200A Gang"
Green Lantern Corpsmen
User avatar
KCStudly
Donating Member
 
Posts: 9613
Images: 8169
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:18 pm
Location: Southeastern CT, USA
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby mezmo » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:51 pm

That "faux radius" look [The radius profile is drawn on the
sides and the 'excess' area outside the radius line is painted black.]
has been done by another forum member on here and is quite
convincing in the pic they have of it. [Sorry I can't find it at the
moment !]

The simplicity and speed of literally building a box is also cost
and materials use efficient [Hardly any waste.].The "faux radius"
paint job is also a valid design approach for what it is [ A bit larger
radius would be a bit more effective, I think.] - If that satisfies you -
then go for it !

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo
If you have a house - you have a hobby.
User avatar
mezmo
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1817
Images: 194
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:11 am
Location: Columbia, SC
Top

Re: Doubltap's DoubleSnuggleBox

Postby bobhenry » Thu Jan 10, 2013 8:49 am

Doubltap wrote:Bob, I had thought about a Rimple early on, but did not have the space [vertically] on the rear to accommodate the hatch door for both the galley access and the breather hatch for the AC. Per your suggestion for curved ends, I'm thinking I could port the AC like one I saw on a Cabin Car on the forum. This guy had provided a port in the side of the camper,using a locking hatch of course, and would just pull the AC inside when traveling, pushing it out the opened door when camping. I'm thinking this might work....just roll the bedding up a bit to pull the AC in, lock the outside door, and away you go. Now for the roofing.....to make the curves, what do you think I could use to make the bends? I have a huge 108" x 18 foot sheet of 60 mil white rubberized roofing, but would need something for underlayment over the spars. Any ideas of what would be sturdy but still make the tight curves at the ends?

Thanks for all your help!


You are going to need a protective barrier between sharp wood edges and the rubber roof. I used a layer of blue foam under the rubber roof membrane on the caboose. 1/2" foam will form a fairly tight curve but for the dog bowl size curves I would simply add an old quilted comforter as the protective barrier. Trim and staple as needed. If you place a series of spars close together or simply rough shape a wider spar you can make any radius you wish from miniscule to large and sweeping. I did kinda like the idea of a spoiler being added to break up the square back though.

The little Scion is kinda boxy without this neat little rear spoiler. Kinda starts ya thinkin' :thinking:

Image
Growing older but not up !
User avatar
bobhenry
Ten Grand Club
Ten Grand Club
 
Posts: 10355
Images: 2614
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:49 am
Location: INDIANA, LINDEN
Top

Next

Return to Build Journals

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 26 guests