MY Build Journey

[alby_c]

I have not started a build yet. I have downloaded the Benroy plans and read it end to end, and bought the Big Woody Plans and read that end to end.
I have read through a few build logs as well.

I showed a few pictures of Tears to the better half and she said - "they look great - make one!" So what more do I need?
BTW, she put in some very specific design guidelines -
- It must have a Queen sized innersprung mattress
- It must have a water tank with electric water pump.
- It must have a fan in the vent and be fully insulated all round
- It must have good lighting, including separate reading lamps. Doors on both sides, with midgy (very fine mesh) insect screens as well. (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/midgy)
- The Galley must have a fridge and a cooktop - pref 4 burner.
- There must be a shower with warm/hot water (I do not plan to build this into the TD - but have it separate)
Apart from that, make it however I like posting.php?mode=post&f=40#
But the profile must look good
She has allowed me to avoid wiring for AC and Air Con and a Microwave oven have also been removed from the list.

She also gave the green light to get a 4WD to get us to out of the way places so I have added an off road suspension to the wish list for the TD.
I am in the final stages of getting a Mitsubishi Pajero.

I am a fairly serious hobbyist cabinet maker in my spare time with a well equipped workshop, at least for woodwork

Anyway, I transferred the material list from the Bog Woody plans to a spreadsheet and have been looking for sources/pricing for it all. I adds up fast but the majority of expenses come from the extra fittings, batteries, gas water heaters, fridges etc.

I use Visio a lot for my cabinet making drawing. I find Sketchup great for concepts but very hard for accurate dimensioned plans (maybe i just need to spend some more time learning it).
I have just discovered the Grasshopper profile as well and think it fits better with what I have in mind for off road/dirt road work. So far I only have rough sketches - formal drawings are being worked on.

I have also been looking for a trailer base - got a quote for over $3k to have one made for me so, after looking at the derelict rusted messes for sale second hand, I decided to learn how to weld. I have given a wish list to Santa that includes a self darkening welding mask and a MiG welder and enroled for a TAFE course in welding.

I plan to make the frame from 2" x 2" x 3mm (sorry, after this it will be metric as thats how my suppliers sell it and how i think - I must admit doing the mental arithmetic has been great reading this site but...) square section galvanised steel, 8 or 9 x 5 depending on how it fits when I start drawing it up. I live right next to the coast so galvanising is not optional - My box trailer is really suffering from the salt and I do not want the TD to suffer the same fate. The draw bar will be 100x 50 x 3mm rectangular section. After I have weights etc i plan to use the formulae elsewhere on this site to make sure it is strong enough but I think it should be overkill actually.

still debating whether to put brakes on it. My Daddy was a truck driver and I was brought up on horror stories of trailer jack-knife accidents so I am really inclined to do so, even though the weight will not break the limit that demands them here.
I am really struggling with working out the Axle length needed with clearances and different hub/Tyre overhang. Guess I just need to find a good supplier and get them to earn their money.

Enough for now - Cool avatar and Sig will be done later
Alby

[NightCap]

I use Visio a lot for my cabinet making drawing. I find Sketchup great for concepts but very hard for accurate dimensioned plans (maybe i just need to spend some more time learning it).
I have just discovered the Grasshopper profile as well and think it fits better with what I have in mind for off road/dirt road work. So far I only have rough sketches - formal drawings are being worked on.
Enough for now - Cool avatar and Sig will be done later
Alby

I use Visio or you could say abuse it. I love it. I can't wait to see what you come up with. Sounds like your tear will have all the best things incorporated into it. Keep us posted.

Kevin

[CarlLaFong]

How will you get an innersprung mattress through the door? They don't bend or fold like a foam bed.

[bobhenry]

How will you get an innersprung mattress through the door? They don't bend or fold like a foam bed.

Some on here were smart enough to build in a removable panel in the gally wall under their counters to slide a matterss in and out. I wasn't that smart I had to drop my queen innerspring pillow top thru the roof just before pulling it down. If you look real close in the pic you can see the Lexan is still sticking straight out. I had just dropped in the bed when the pic was taken.

[alby_c]

Thanks for the heads up there. I like the removable panel as i am sure that after a year, more or less, A more comfortable mattress will be required regardless of how much the first one costs.
And she is completely NON-negotiable on the mattress.

With the Benroy, do you have issues with bruising your shins while using the Galley? It looks like you would. My lovely is on blood thinning drugs and places where you can bump yourself are not desirable. That's why the Grasshopper profile really appealed. I love the slide out cabinets above - i will think seriously about that as well. I will continue to look for ideas there though.

Cheers
Alby

[KCStudly]

Greetings.

I would use bare steel, weld it, and then send it out for galvanizing (taking the trailer apart from the camper after everything has been totoally built out, including electrical wiring, tongue box, suspension, fully loaded to verify weights and suspension travels, shocks (suspenders), etc. Be sure that you have welded, drilled, threaded, fit, every last thing before taking it apart. Also, be sure that you don't cap off any areas or create any pockets where the galvanizing solution can't get into or drain out of. It must have a place for the fluid to get in and the air to get out. They will either drill into these areas for you or will not allow them to begin with because they become a hazard due to expansion at the temperatures that they galvanize at.

Welding on anything that has been previously zinc plated or galvanized is very bad for your health; toxic. Even after grinding away the areas to be welded, there is still zinc smeared into the grain of the metal, plus then the galvy has been ground away, defeating the whole purpose! There is cold galvanizing spray available that can be used for touch-up, but it's just not the same as a good hot dip.

If you must galvanize, do it after fabricating.

I'm looking forward to your build. Git 'er done, and lot's of pic's...we like pic's.

[Shadow Catcher]

Compass Rose has all of your requirements including the shower point water heater... the only thing lacking would be a more off road friendly suspension, and yes it is a grasshopper design.

[alby_c]

I have been reading on welding galvanising. seems there are as many posts/sites saying its no more toxic than standard welding fumes as there are those saying its a hazard.
http://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtrainin ... dhlth.html
http://www.nakedwhiz.com/weldinggalvanized.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

Your post seems to indicate risks way beyond Metal fume fever though.
I have no intention of harming my health so is it simply a matter of getting the right cartridge for my dust mask, as I regularly use timbers whose saw dust is carcinogenic as well but they are just too pretty not to use at all. Tasmanian Blackwood for one. I have really cut back on Camphor Laurel though as it just doesn't stop giving off its noxious fumes for months

you just mask up, put on the long sleeves and shower well afterwards. The second image is a shop built dust cyclone I made from scraps of Tulip oak so I am serious about controlling the hazards in my workshop (as well as making nice tools to do it with when there is that option)

The Compass Rose looks fantastic - is there a build journal - Been looking but still learning how to navigate/search the site. (But I have mastered getting an image so the photos will start as soon as I have something to photograph)

[Shadow Catcher]

The build journal is here viewtopic.php?f=50&t=33634&hilit=Mega+Mini+build This trailer was the last one the company built and quite frankly you will see all of the frustrations and screwed up things like the wiring much of which I had to re do i.e. brakes not connected water pump not connected and no switch live frame because the AC common was "grounded" to the frame which fried the converter which fried the AGM battery.

Welding galvanized steel is a hazard and a 3M 2091 filter (pink) will take care of it along with keeping your head out of the fume plume, ventilating with your vac system could help.
Why weld galvanized rather than galvanizing after welding. The zinc is vaporized in the weld affected zone during welding which kills the protection in the most vulnerable area. You have to use zinc rich cold galvanizing paint which is more vulnerable, restore protection. If it is not required by regulation why bother?
CR is all aluminum frame and while the the suspension is not built for off road, building very light weight is better for off road because inertia will pull things apart if it is built heavy.

The following links influenced my decisions particularly, Bush Tracker and Kimberly
http://www.aussieteardrops.com/
http://www.kimberleykaravans.com/index. ... avan-guide Guide may be useful and their sustainability use of solar and water were of help.
http://www.bushtracker.com/ note they are using an aluminum frame

From the US http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html#rubber

[alby_c]

Wow - you sure went through a trial and tribulation with your trailer.
Since he is now out of business I guess I do not need to get copyright permission to lift the ideas from the Compass Rose? Particularly the profile.

The cyclone is for sawdust control. Welding for me will be strictly outside as my workshop, despite the dust control systems, has sawdust in every crevice.

I am looking for a place that will galvanise the frame and will compare costs. I just know that the salt air here will rust it out in a few years otherwise - I live about 300 yards from the sea. It just seemed an easy option to weld galvanised square section and just treat the welds afterwards. I have several gate frames made this way ( from 1" square tube) and they are 6 years and still going with no rust. I had a look at the pages on welding Aluminium - They were too scary for me as a complete welding novice. I actually plan to entice a mate who can weld with a BBQ (Steak and prawns) and several cases of beer to give me a tutorial on welding when we have all the bits to hand - knowing him, by the end of the tutorial the frame will be welded.

On the Car front I have put a deposit on a 2009 Mitsi Pajero NT GLX pending a full RACQ (automotive club) check. With that out of the way I have the green light to start amassing the materials needed. i.e. Now We have bought that the "left over" money from the loan to buy it is the seed money to start the TD after a dual battery system is installed. My budget is currently sitting at $7,000 but several of the numbers were wild guesses.

Spent several hours yesterday drawing and am getting close to deciding the basic dimensions we will use.

[Shadow Catcher]

Alby I spent my working career doing non destructive testing which included a great deal of weld inspection, from the space shuttle, nuclear, military to antique cars. Your situation is such that yes you do need galvanized or marine aluminum such as a 5059. Having said all that unless you are a good welder it is probably better to have some one certified to weld to do the job after you get it cut out. The reason I suggested galvanizing after construction is that using zinc rich paint works well until it gets scratched and if you are outbacking I would think where you will be is likely to be less than kind to the frame finish.
The profile and much of the original design of Mega Mini #1 copied the original Grasshopper including only having one door and the three doors in the galley. After our experience they went with a single galley hatch and two doors. The other 5 MM's were considerably simpler than ours.Therefore there is no reason you can't use the design. As it sits it is about 1600#, 750 Kg but that is with an all aluminum frame. The 6X10 185 X 304 excluding the front platform means that with the suspension CR is WIDE but it does have a queen size bed with room on both sides.

[Shadow Catcher]

This is one of the original Grasshoppers a T&TTT member
http://www.flickr.com/photos/izzomac/se ... 2566390390

Also http://www.outbackteardrop.com/grasshopper.html

[alby_c]

I know you are going to ask for pictures - they are coming soon
Mitsubishi Pajero 2009. GLX diesel Auto is now bought. I know I don't need something this big to pull a teardrop but .....
It is getting side steps put on so we can easily climb in and out not being so young and sprightly as we once were.
Also an auxiliary battery to run a fridge 100AH deep cycle goodie in the cargo bay with a CTEK DC to DC charger in front of it.

We saw a Jayco Dove for a few $K in the Gumtree (second hand sales) and my Delight said - "That would be great while you build the Teardrop and only needs a bit of work" - good experience for the Teardrop and enable us to decide what we really want in it before hand. (She expects me to take 12 months+ to build the Teardrop, and is probably right, but don't tell her I admitted it)

So we now have a Jayco Dove in the back yard and am buying an education on refurbishing a small popup caravan. At least it has brand new canvas.
BTW, I was looking at Doves as a candidate for a suitable chasis frame and planning to just scrape the superstructure off it. Still might go this way.....later.

I view this as a step in building the teardrop btw. a dry run on something I do not care about so it doesn't matter if it doesn't come out perfect. I am able to jump to the areas that concern me most - getting power and water sorted, as both were stripped out of it. One of the reasons it was cheap. The lid was also "Redone" being replaced by waterproof sailcloth on a square frame - Seemed like a good idea to them but when you get under it in the Australian sun you feel like your brains are being boiled out of your ears. So I will have to skin the lid and insulate it properly which is excellent experience as well
The stove that was in it was condemned when I tried to get a Gasworthy certificate for registration. The plumber cut the stove out and certified the dove had no gas system so it is registered - he did leave the piping intact for when we get a cooker that will pass (already ordered). My Delight promptly condemned the rest of the Galley fixtures and they are now in a pile in front of the workshop. (so much for not a lot to do to it)

packages are arriving daily with all the bits we need for it.
I am finding local suppliers for everything - amazing how when you go from just looking, to wanting to buy that you can dredge up places that provide the stuff at a great price - love the internet.!

The welding course starts at the end of the month so need something to do while I wait.

This is enough for now. Will post after the weekend with piccy's. Have to get a lot done quickly as we are going away in it in 2 weeks time.