1946 teardrop...I think

[Patrickteardrop]

Here is my 4' x 8' teardrop I bought two years ago outside of Wichita, KS. I towed it home without any issues, but did use the state highways, instead of the Interstate! Towed fine behind my Jeep Cherokee, as it weighs maybe 350 pounds as it sits. I got the trailer pretty cheap, but as you can see in the pics, it DOES need a little help.

The axle is a Chevy dropped front axle that has been welded, and I'm thinking the axle is original to the build. I'm fairly sure this was a homebuilt job, but it's held up very well for its age. I'm looking to reskin the top, replace the six-lug axle with a five-lug 4-1/2" BP 2500# axle (all my vehicles have that bolt pattern!), replace the support spars from side to side, and eliminate the front window. I'm also thinking about making the rear a tent area. Fenders will be simple diamond-tread aluminum units.

The floor is done, but not installed. It is 5/8" marine plywood with 1x4 interlocking slats nailed and glued to it. I have a nice pair of 15" x 5-1/2" chrome reverse wheels that I'm going to use on the trailer.

See whatcha think!

[KCStudly]

Tough call to redo vs. restore, or even just fix it up as a rat rod TD. That patina would be pretty hard to replicate and is quite popular in some circles. There's a lot of history there.

I'd be tempted to try and keep the axle. Whichever way you end up going you can't do wrong by getting it back out there camping!

[Patrickteardrop]

Since the curbside door is completely gone, I do not have all of the original trailer, to start. I do have the rear hatch, handle, and a couple of small parts that came with the trailer. Part of me wants to go ahead and bead-blast the sides to a nice, smooth finish, reskin the top (it's pretty rough!), remove or replace the front window (needs the glass), replace the axle with new bits, including the springs; and build it essentially from the ground up. The only original parts that would remain would be the sides, the skeleton, the frame, and the hatch.

Or, I could beat the roof dents out, build a new door; get new, skinny 16" tires for the wheels on it now, refloor it (it's a third missing at the moment!), caulk the hell out of things, replace the front glass and seal, and just use it. I'm just not much on "patina", which is derived from the Old Latin word meaning "paint the damn thing already!"...I really haven't decided, even after two years!

Either way, it'll need a new door built for the curbside, new floor (done but not yet installed), window glass and the hatch rebuilt just to be a usable teardrop. Any of you guys/girls out there that have started at a similar point in a build/restoration, do you have any ideas I might be able to incorporate?

[MrMatt]

I think it'd be really cool with the patina. For the replacement door it would be cool to make it out of an old gas station sign, logos and all. Route 66 that baby.

[Patrickteardrop]

Oooooh, I like that idea! The whole Route 66 thing is pretty well overdone, but the gas station (or whatever!) sign idea for the door is cool! There are a few screw holes in the roof that need to be repaired, and the roof is dented in a bit, so that is why I'm looking to replace that with new metal. But that can be painted and then made to look like the sides easily enough, I guess. I'm just not a "patina" guy, though...but it might just work here. It still has to be useable, comfortable and without leaks!

The brain cells are thinkin'!

[jeporter25]

you could also use smaller signs or even license plates to patch any small holes or dents. This could be really cool.

[Patrickteardrop]

I found a few items in the shop that might be going on the trailer. I do have a 3'x4' sign that says "right turn only", a "handicapped parking only" sign I found about 30 years ago, and a few license plates that I wouldn't mind repurposing for this; some of which are the new-style flat, printed plates with no embossed characters...perfect for those areas where metal that size is needed. I also have four bits of diamond-tread aluminum (two are 6" x 66" and two are 6" x 48") that will come in handy somewhere.

BTW, I figure my estimated build date of the original trailer is very close to 1946. All of the fasteners are carriage bolts, slotted machine screws and four-sided square nuts - NO Phillips-head fasteners anywhere! Since Phillips-head screws were not in mainstream use until the Korean War, this definitely dates this trailer to before 1950 - and with the Chevy straight axle, perhaps even pre-WWII!

[MrMatt]

I saw an Indian motorcycle advertising sign recently that reminded me of this post. It would have made a really cool door. Love the license plate idea. It would be cool to cut license plates into strips and turn them into interior horizontal blinds/shades.

[prohandyman]

Patrick
If you decide to keep it somewhat original, I have lots of original latches, handles, lighting, etc. to stay period. I even have some mill finish aluminum you can use for the door, but might not be cost effective to get that to you from Indy!

[Junkboy999]

Ya Fix or restore is the 10 dollar question. what I was wondering about the the axle. That looks like a front end steerable axle off an old car with the steering robe cut, bent in to the axle and welded so the wheel point forward. That looks scary, There has to be play in the steering bearing and I’m wonder how true it runs down the road.

[KCStudly]

There has to be play in the steering bearing...

Doesn't have to be. If the king pin bushings weren't worn out when it was welded, they are even more unlikely to be worn out after it was welded. If the knuckles don't turn, the bushings probably haven't worn much, if at all. Sure, they have seen some knocks and jostling, but if they were tight to start, they probably still are.

Easy enough to inspect; jack up and support the trailer, grab a wheel front and back and give it a tug back and forth, and up and down. See any free play? Any odd tire wear? No? Then it's good. Got a little play; consider renewing the bushings (and maybe the pins) rather than condemning the axle. If the king pins and bushings all seem good and you still have odd tire wear, then (and only then) would I suspect that the steering link was welded with too much or too little toe (or was maybe bent after the fact). But if everything is good, why change it? It worked good then, it's as nostalgic as all get out, and pretty damn cool in my book.

[Corwin C]

In every case that I've personally seen a steer axle used as a trailer axle, the kingpin joint itself was welded solid. It's difficult to tell for sure in the pictures, but I suspect that it was done in this case as well. If not, that modification would only take a welder 15 minutes to do.

[Patrickteardrop]

The trailer tows quite well. I towed it from Augusta, Kansas, to Oklahoma City behind my Cherokee without issues (183 miles). I took the state highways and drove 60 or less, considering the trailer is literally a rolling shell. I had a cargo strap around the body and fastened to the frame rails, just for added protection against excessive flex and possible collapse at speed.

I've had it up off the tires a couple of times to check the kingpins and ensure there was zero play in any of the areas of concern. It was welded right and is very solid, so I am not at all concerned about a kingpin failure. I tossed around going with a torsion-style axle, but that would've taken away from the overall build "feel". Keeping that steer axle gives it the right period look and feel, IMO.

No build updates to speak of. I did find a chassis number on the frame today, so this is leading me to believe that it is a commercial build, over a homemade job. I've been looking for bits to put on the trailer this Winter, so by the start of the camping season, I should be well on the way to using this as it should be.

Link to my Gallery here: gallery/album.php?album_id=3359

[Redneck Teepee]

[Patrickteardrop]

Now that is interesting.