kootenaytears Teardrop Build Journal

[kootenaytear]

Hi All,

After looking around for a compact trailer and being blown away by the ridiculous prices, I've decided to build my own teardrop for a few reasons: 1) lower cost than a commercial trailer 2) Control over design features 3) It'll be fun!

I consider myself relatively handy and I've good success with my own DIY designed projects in the past, where I lack is the knowledge of exactly what to do and ironing out the details of building my own teardrop.

Basic design concept: X?x10 (I'm 6'2" and dont think an 8ft will give me the room and storage space/galley I'd like), classic teardrop style, woody style, preferably a birch exterior, simplicity.

Dimensions: I'm worried about it being too tight width wise. Currently we sleep on a 48" wide foamy in the tent and I don't think we can go tighter, so 48 minus the wall widths would be too tight. Maybe just extend the wide enough to keep the interior 48"? Can this be done on a HF 4x8 trailer without getting into the wheels?

I see there's other options, maybe more expensive but worth it, such as the NT 5x8 which would make life easier, and could be extended to 10' by lengthening the tongue.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612541_200612541

The photo below, albeit not the right dimensions, is basically what I'd like to end up with. I've found the Grumman 2, New Cub, and possibly Weekender Long would fit my criteria

If anybody would like to chime in now with a good design let me know.

[kootenaytear]

Basic construction:

I plan to do sandwiched walls: 3/4" skeletonized plywood with 1/4" birch ply or luan on interior and exterior. Roof would have 3/4" spars with similar ext/int skinning with hard foam insulation in walls/roof/floor.

Anybody please chime in if it sounds good or bad. I think I might buy the Shop Manual and see what's been done there.

I'm unsure on floor construction and how to have it so the walls cover the frame and attach to the wood on top of the frame. I guess I would lose the 2" of height to cover the frame then, but could bolt/screw directly into the steel which would be bomber for strength.

[Gunguy05]

I would recommend finding a furniture store and trying to get some large boxes and mock up a 5 wide and see how you like it. Also play with 4 high vs 5. We did that before starting, and I'm glad we did. Gives you a better sense of space than just "ah that looks of enough"

Good luck and keep us posted.

Brian

[Gunguy05]

And Yes! Absolutely buy the shop manual, wish I had done that sooner. It would have saved me some time.

[KCStudly]

Lots of options for attaching walls to floor. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=263343#p263343

I think a couple of things that make that Sunset magazine pic so appealing to so many is the "cute" small size and shape, the curved front under galley cabinet, and the complementary lighting that the picture was taken in. It is a very nice TD, and its simplicity is appealing.

One thing to keep in mind when deciding on an overall outside dimension, especially if using the Fredrick's method, is to start analyzing at the top and work your way down. If you start with 60 inches at the frame and add overhanging wall width to both sides, by the time you get to the outer roof skin you can end up more than 60 inches wide. That can consume a larger number of full sheets because 5x5 birch can't span it.

I am building 64 inches wide outside to maintain a true 60 inch queen size interior, and now that it is getting closed in I could have easily made it 60 inches overall outside (I'm a big guy, too, 6 ft 260 lbs). I guess I found this out too late and would have done it differently now that I know. Most people cut down a queen size foam mattress and never miss the little bit of difference. As they say, since there is no way to roll out of bed, you get to use the whole mattress.

At 9 ft 8 inches in floor length, I have a little over 80 inches inside the cabin and a nice deep galley that will allow my cooler to slide in lengthwise. I do have a little more of a bustle shape at the rear of my profile (modified Benroy), so my counter comes back almost to the edge of the floor. This allows more storage space under the counter than if it was shallower and more streamlined.

Don't forget to consider used boat trailers. Their axles are usually adjustable for position, usually is already further back, they have nice long tongues that are easy to cut to the desired length, and are usually galvanized for long life. Might have to hunt around a bit to find the one that suits you, but depending on where you live, they can be plentiful.

Just some thoughts.

[tony.latham]

I'm a big fan of Fredrick's Shop Manual.


If you try to go with 48" wide interior to gain a couple of inches, you're going waste a lot of materials in your roof and floor.

I started teardropping in 2004 in a commercially built 4' x 10' and it was wonderful until I looked inside a five-wide last June. A month later I was building a 5 x 10. I'm sold on the five-wide. A foot is huge in a teardrop.

My advice is to not limit your build by the Harbor Freight 4' wide trailer. Northern Tools sells a 5 x 8 (that would be fine for 9' or 10' long teardrop). You can likely pick up a 5' wide trailer at a local box store. The other option is to learn to weld. It's not difficult. A couple of hours with a wire-feed box and guidance from someone that knows what he's doing and you can crank out your own trailer.

Tony

p.s. That KCstudly guy? Check out his build log. He knows what he's doing and one should listen to him.

p.s. losing 2" of interior height is no big deal for us 5'9" midgets, but you might measure you're sitting height (on a compressed mattress) and see if your'e good with it.

[kootenaytear]

Wow, great advice already, thanks guys!

I think another thing that draws me to the sunset model in the pic is the "Northern European" like design, read IKEA style. I love a lot of IKEA's stuff, albeit the made-in-China finished product leave a lot to be desired, but the concepts are good: lots of storage spaces and simple, clean lines, it reminds me of the classic Poang chair.

I'm liking the idea of the 5x8 NT trailer. I understand that 5ft may result in some material wastage and interesting joinery but I'm up for that.

[tony.latham]

I've built a five-wide and a four-wide* (that has yet to get mounted on its chassis). Since I can get 5 x 5 sheets of 1/8" baltic birch, joinery for the ceiling isn't an issue.

If you are going to go with an 8' long tear, I'd consider not going with the rolled-under front (such as in your pic) since you'll lose about 8" length in the bed (or galley). Here's the side profile on my 5' x 10', note the Benroy-like front end:

You can't beat the good looks of a Grumman but 8" is a lot to loose in an eight footer.

Tony

* My sis insisted on the 4-wide. It's a towing issue.

[kootenaytear]

I've built a five-wide and a four-wide* (that has yet to get mounted on its chassis). Since I can get 5 x 5 sheets of 1/8" baltic birch, joinery for the ceiling isn't an issue.

If you are going to go with an 8' long tear, I'd consider not going with the rolled-under front (such as in your pic) since you'll lose about 8" length in the bed (or galley).

Just wondering, if the roll overs went over 8ft but then came back to meet up at 8ft, i wouldn't lose any space. I think I still might go with a 10ft total length, with a 8ft base, unless that's a big no-no, but here's a design that does that:

http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/Profile-Cub.pdf

So, I think I'm moving towards a 5x10, really liking this Cub design.

It seems like the Grumman 2 and the New Cub both come in 10ft lengths, but the flat floor isn't 96", one is shorter and the other longer. I don't plan on building a custom trailer.

Any input on that?

The Cub:
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/Profile-Cub.pdf

The Grumman 2:
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/Profile-Grumman2.pdf

[David S]

Mine is a Gruman2,I did custom build my frame but you can extend your base past your frame in one direction or both directions as several have done.I would use a minimum of a 2x2 wood frame to do that though.

[alaska teardrop]

The Sunset trailer, Cub & Grumman are all attractive designs. And, following your thread, it seems you have a good plan.
In order to get the lower ride height, axle location, larger wheels & tires that the designs suggests, consider changing the NT suspension for a torsion axle. Here is Zach's thread about the advantages of making the change: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=58078
Fred

[kootenaytear]

Thanks for the tip Fred, I'll look into it.

The more I look into it, the more I like the new Cub. I noticed in the drawings that when you drop the side walls down to cover the side of the frame it looks like it covers the whole 8 ft. I'd much rather do that than build an extension for the Grumman.

Can anyone confirm that the drawings here: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/cubnewh2-int.pdf

and here are the same? http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/teardrop/Profile-Cub.pdf

The reason I ask is that the simple sketch looks like the flat bottom part is only about 80" long, while the detailed drawing looks like it's 96 if it was sitting on top of the 8ft frame. Or are these two different design, cub vs. new cub?

It'll be my first tear so I don't want to make it too complicated, it'll be a learning curve and I can always build another!

I'll mull it over a few more days, and then once the design is set, I'll buy the shop manual to better understand construction and make my list of design must-haves for the galley, etc., then bill of materials and off to the races.

Lots of summer projects on the go now, so if I do all my planing now I'll be set to build once the snow flies!

Super pumped for this!