Michael's Teardrop Build

[messenger14]

So I decided to build a teardrop! After pouring through various builds I've come up with a design I am satisfied with. I have started this thread in hopes that some of the veterans who have built their own teardrops will provide some useful pointers and tips. Please feel free to provide feedback as well as moral support

[messenger14]

I went with a Northern Tool 5x8 trailer. It feels pretty sturdy and well built. I'm a little wary of the hubs and bearings. The grease nipple had broken off of a previously owned HF trailer and I know the same makers make the Northern Tool and HF trailers.

Only time will tell.

[messenger14]

Here are the plans I will be using for the walls. I followed these almost exactly. The only thing I changed was the front radius. I used a 22" front radius.

[flbikejunkie]

Good luck I used the same trailer and similar design for mine

[messenger14]

So one of the big questions I'm battling with is how exactly to safely set up AC power to the teardrop. I've seen some builders just connect an extension cord through an outdoor male receptacle located on the side wall.

Could someone please shoot me some pics of how they ran AC power. I'm looking for something safe and simple.

[KCStudly]

Super Simple Electrical System Sticky

[messenger14]

Super Simple Electrical System Sticky

KCStudly, thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for! PERFECT

[messenger14]

Here is my floor frame.

I used 2x4 pine studs as the frame. I didn't want to use PT lumber as I was afraid of any reaction with the chemicals in PT lumber and the steel frame (coming from just rebuilding an aluminum boat I know that PT lumber and metal do not always play nicely.)



Once the floor frame was built I then screwed/ glued 1/2" BCX pine onto the frame for my floor. I then used Asphalt Emulsion to coat the underside (roadside) of the floor. If you go this route and use this stuff I highly recommend wearing latex gloves. This stuff is uber sticky and will take forever to get off your skin.

[messenger14]

So this weekend I was able to get the rear bulkhead frame built as well as the front frame. I decided to build these as they add some rigidity and strength for the walls as well as the interior and exterior roof/ ceiling. These will also help make sure my walls are at a right angle and plumb with the floor as well as support the walls while I work on the stringers.

These were built from 2x4s that were ripped in half with a table saw. Lesson learned: measure very carefully when ripping boards in half. I was off by about 1/16" and it was very apparent. These will be screwed/ glued to the sub-floor. My walls will then be screwed into these frames.

The one wall in this pic is actually my template for 3/4" walls which will hopefully be built this coming week. I placed it here just to check on placement.

[KCStudly]

One way to get the boards all the same is to purposely have a little offset away from the rip fence, then run the fat board back thru against the rip fence so they come out exactly the same.

[messenger14]

One way to get the boards all the same is to purposely have a little offset away from the rip fence, then run the fat board back thru against the rip fence so they come out exactly the same.

DUH, right! Why didn't I think of that! Thanks. I will do that for the stringers as I plan on ripping 2x4s instead of using store bought 1x2s. I feel that 2x2s (although adding weight to the overall trailer) will give more strength to the ceiling...seeing as I'll be putting about 70+mph winds on it driving down the interstate.

[messenger14]

Quick question regarding fiberglassing:

I'm planning on using 6oz cloth for the exterior walls and 10-12oz cloth for the roof. Since I'm using 1/8" birch for my roof I'd like to have some added rigidity and strength (hence using fiberglass cloth and epoxy.)

My question: should I stick to the 6oz that I'm using for the walls on the roof or should I go a hair thicker and use either a 10oz or 12oz cloth for the roof? How will it look at the seam where the 6oz meets the 10/12oz cloth?

[Kharn]

You can feather the joint to match, so the 10oz cloth gets sanded thinner and the 6oz cloth gets extra epoxy to build it up until you can't see the joint.
On my build, I left the seams visible, but I was only using 6" tape over the joints and nothing over the majority of the panels.

[KCStudly]

You will want to plan for a generous radius where the walls and roof meet (unless you plan to use trim... which makes no sense at all if you plan to fully glass, IMO... circular logic). The glass won't go over sharp corners; it will try to straighten back out and will pull away from the bedding coat of epoxy.

One thing (out of many) that I would have done differently on mine would be to have a full hard rim of 2x edging at the profile. Rabbet the side wall and roof skin into this and radius the outside corner.

[Kharn]

Glass definitely needs a gentle curve, I used a 1/4" radius and it worked moderately well, 3/8" would be better. The problem is joints where you can't use a router, such as when two panels meet at 45 degrees. Those you just have to break the edge with a belt sander.