The Escape Pod? - Design Phase

[Metalhead]

Over the weekend I was able to get out and grab a HF 4x8 trailer for my first ever TD build. I had already began initial design and concept drawings, but I wanted to have my trailer on hand before I put a heavier pen to paper so I could use the accurate dimensions of the trailer. After traveling nearly 2 hours to the closest HF, and then ending up at the second closest HF I came home with a trailer.

Pic of the trailer boxes after pickup!


Trailer construction was straight forward and the only hiccup I ran into was not having a 22mm socket for two of the larger bolts. A quick run to the hardware store solved that issue.

After this picture, I did proceed with installing the axle; however, I have not installed the wheels and tires at this point (need to repack the bearings)



As I said above, I have already started on some concept drawings to try to figure out what I want versus what I can fit. My design will be a 5' x 9 to 9.5' with room for 3 using a bunk system. I would like the bunk to serve a few purposes as I did not want to have to modify/rebuild too much once the kiddo is too big to fit or wants their own tent.


This is a pic of a quick sketch I did in ACad just to do a size feasibility study really. This is based off of a 9.5' interior length and a 5' width.

The hatched purple square in the galley is a compact fridge, while the purple square at the bow will be a small slide out A/C assembly. I will be doing mostly Gulf Coast camping so the wifey requires it . The bunk can be seen in its "bunk" form in this photo and if you noticed can be slid back to become a shorter storage shelf. This option may be removed in the final design, but I liked the idea of it becoming a shelf and not being as obtrusive as the full bunk for when the kiddo isn't with us or for once the kiddo moved out.


This is a pic a the alternate arrangement using the bunk shelf as a couch/lounger set up for the main bed which will be a two part foam mattress to give us the ability to get it into this arrangement.



Now that I've got my trailer and I was able to get all of the "as-built" dimensions from it I have moved into more of a final design stage.

Things I want to include:

-A/C (as mentioned above)
-Tongue box for storage
-Compact Fridge (not a necessity as a cooler would work)
-AC and DC Power using a shore connection, battery, and some form of converter
-Small propane tank (enough for a long weekend camping)
-Under bed storage (for seldom used items/ maintenance)

My concerns/questions at this point are below. Any recommendations or answers or greatly appreciated in advance :

Where to put my shore power connection?

- This will most likely be a personal choice based on being close to where my converter ends up (if that's my final route for power) so my options are:

+Tongue Box
+Front Cabinet
+Galley

How to properly charge a battery while hooked to shore power?

- I've done AC and I've done DC, but never mixed the two so I'm a little lost in this department. I understand that the lights will need to be DC while you can have either AC or DC outlets; however, when running off of battery the AC will be a DC conversion if using a converter such as the PD4045 (saw this particular one listed in a few build journals). Please correct me if this is wrong.
- Also what type of charger/converter is the best fit for my situation is a concern as it could affect my design as far as where it will fit.

Looking forward to working this build with ya'll!!! Feel free to comment any criticisms (constructive, hopefully) or recommendations along the way.

BTW The working title of the build is "The Escape Pod". Big sci-fi nerd so excuse that if you will

[Metalhead]

Began finalizing my design tonight.

A couple things that have come up so far:

I cannot decide whether I should insulate my floor or just make it the standard 3/4" plywood deck. We will be camping mostly in LA/MS. I don't mind camping in extreme heat but don't like camping when its miserably cold. I'd have to guess my camping temperature range will be between 25degF and 100degF. I'm leaning more towards un-insulated at this point.

The walls will be a sandwich style with 1/8" interior and exterior ply (exterior will be coated with FG), and 1x3 and 1x4 skeleton.

I had some wiring questions based around the pros and cons of using a converter or battery tender posted viewtopic.php?f=30&t=61170. It's still a little bit of a toss up. I don't mind wiring up the AC and DC separately and have a ton of excess AC supplies (breakers, recepticles, boxes, wire, etc.) from remodels in the past so that isn't a concern. I'm leaning more towards the battery tender method at this point for cost savings unless I catch a deal on a converter.

I've also got galley design on my mind as well. I have some ideas I'm looking forward to putting on paper tomorrow.

[eggsalad]

I cannot decide whether I should insulate my floor or just make it the standard 3/4" plywood deck. We will be camping mostly in LA/MS. I don't mind camping in extreme heat but don't like camping when its miserably cold. I'd have to guess my camping temperature range will be between 25degF and 100degF. I'm leaning more towards un-insulated at this point.

One man's opinion - and it's worth every penny you paid for it!

Keep in mind that in a teardrop, virtually 100% of the floor is covered with mattress. In my case, that's open-cell foam, as is the case with many tears you'll find here. Open-cell foam isn't the best insulator my any means, but it keeps your body off the chilly plywood.

It also depends on your bedding. I don't plan on going out if the low will be below freezing, but if I do, I have an Army-issue down sleeping bag. I've never needed it.

Some people use a sandwich construction floor for structural reasons. In that case, there's no reason NOT to insulate it. But for a basic camper, used in above-freezing conditions, I don't see the value in insulating the floor.

[Metalhead]

Thanks for the input Egg!

I have decided that just using 3/4in deck on the floor should suffice, and make the build a little simpler as well.

[Metalhead]

Been researching and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for so I'll post my question here for feedback.

My exterior siding plans so far are Outside Plywood -> Epoxy -> Fiberglass Cloth and Epoxy -> Product such as Monstaliner. My concern is with the base plywood. I have seen people mention baltic birch for woody's as well as some other builds. Is this type of plywood entirely necessary for what my plans are, or would a hardwood plywood be sufficient as long as its sealed and coated as I mentioned above.

--Metal

[DMcCam]

Been researching and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for so I'll post my question here for feedback.

My exterior siding plans so far are Outside Plywood -> Epoxy -> Fiberglass Cloth and Epoxy -> Product such as Monstaliner. My concern is with the base plywood. I have seen people mention baltic birch for woody's as well as some other builds. Is this type of plywood entirely necessary for what my plans are, or would a hardwood plywood be sufficient as long as its sealed and coated as I mentioned above.

--Metal

My two cents is that if you are building a woody, use the prettiest wood you can. Cabinet grade ply will work great.

[Metalhead]

My two cents is that if you are building a woody, use the prettiest wood you can. Cabinet grade ply will work great.

The exterior will be fiberglass coated plywood with a topcoat of a UV resistant coating such as Monstaliner or similar product.

Thought about doing a woody, but decided to wait on that for build number 2 or 3

[Wicked Piggy]

You can still have a woody with fiberglass and resin. A friend of mine builds wood canoes and uses this method. The fiberglass and resin are clear. The canoes are beautiful looking wood boats when he is done. I'm a newbie here and I'm sure others can give you better insight, but this is the route I was planning. I'll use a cabinet grade plywood and coat it. I bought the Harbor Freight trailer. Looks like you bought the heavy duty one like I did. Lucky for me that Harbor Freight is only 15 minutes from my house. I have mine together and started paining it black. I think the black will go better with the wood sides. I am planning to put a set of my Chevy rims on it. I have it in my back yard inside one of the harbor freight portable garages until I make room in my real garage for winter working. Guess I'll have to start a build journal. I like that you incorporate Sci-Fi if that is your passion. My family is horror. Hence the Wicked Piggy name that I use for things, lol. My kids liked it. I'll keep watching to see your progress. Mine is going slow at the moment

[Metalhead]

Thanks for the reply piggy. I did not know that about canoe construction.

I plan on taking mine slow as well so it doesn't hit the pocketbook too bad all at once and upset my financial manager . At this point, my goal is to have the deck done by the end of the year and then progress may can pick up speed once we get some bills paid off.

Good luck with yours. I look forward to reading about it.

[Wicked Piggy]

I'm the financial manager in my house, but the wife keeps and eye on me. If I use money that could be buying the grand-kids toys then I'm in trouble, lol.

Marty

[Metalhead]

Starting design is complete!

I have a few construction drawings and a few minor details to do but I feel really good about how the design looks and feels at this point. During construction, I know that at least 50% of what I've drawn may change, but this keeps me busy until I can get rolling better with the actual construction. I have included a few drawings for those interested.

Side View


View of the Galley


View of the Interior Front Storage Area


I plan to get my wheel bearings packed this weekend and get the wheels installed, and maybe get my stabilizer jacks ordered. I plan on using an Atwood style on the rear (one on each corner), and just a standard swivel down wheel jack up front.

I intend to extend the tongue a few feet for better maneuverability as well as some extra room for a tongue box but I haven't been able to find a supplier for 2x2 that has a length I need. I wanted to see if I could find somewhere with scrap instead of buying a full joint of square tube.

-James

[KCStudly]

I'm sure that you can devise a way to have your cake and eat it, too; have the bunk tray slide in and flip down to fulfill both uses.

Good up front planning is key to avoiding do overs and unexpected snags. You will have them, but the better you can plan your build to scale, the less they will crop up.

[Metalhead]

I'm sure that you can devise a way to have your cake and eat it, too; have the bunk tray slide in and flip down to fulfill both uses.

Good up front planning is key to avoiding do overs and unexpected snags. You will have them, but the better you can plan your build to scale, the less they will crop up.

KC,

I do like cake . I have a tendency to overthink (read: overdesign) things and am considered by my coworkers to be a "conservative" engineer. Have no fear, that has nothing to do with politics. I just tend to use a safety factor of 4 whereas most use a safety factor of 2 . I am trying my best not to over-think too much with this build in order to keep it simple and "elegant".

[Metalhead]

Been a busy week at home and at work so I haven't had too much time to work on the TD. I was able to toy around with the design a little more and draw up some alternate cabinet designs for the galley and the front of the cabin. Nothing too serious though.

I didn't get a chance to do the wheel bearings last weekend as my packer did not come in in time so that's now on the schedule for this weekend.

Good news is, however, after a quick call to the DMV they told me that they did not need the trailer on site to do the registration. All that is required is the certificate of origin and the bill of sale. Here's hoping to it being as painless as they made it out to be.

More to come...