Teardrop for One

[Henry Benner]

This trailer will be built for a specific need and so it might not appeal to most people. It will be more of an overnight trailer than a camping trailer.

Why I'm Building This Tiny Trailer:

1. Living 2 hours from the nearest city there are times when I would like to attend evening functions there. But the 2 hour drive home late at night after the event often prevents me from going. A tiny trailer would allow me to stay overnight and drive back the next morning.

2. I often attend scheduled events that are 2 days driving distance away and I usually drive until late evening, leaving again first thing in the morning. A motel room for such a short stay seems wasteful. Plus, when I get to the event, being single, I’m often stuck in a bunkhouse with half a dozen men…can be noisy and there is a lack of privacy. A small trailer would be great.

3. And finally, I no longer enjoy tenting. I need a tiny trailer.

Needs list:
-- single bed (76” x 28” x 5” bed foam), raised 13” off floor.
-- 52” interior height, 48” is just too “crouchy” for me at 5’10”
-- small kitchen accessible from rear hatch; just a cooler, single burner stove, sink, water
-- porta-potti
-- trap-door shower (optional)
-- alcohol heater, electric blanket (powered from inverter in car)
-- towable with a small car (Like a Toyota Camry, Honda Civic, etc.)
-- small awning and fold-down table for road side lunch stops
-- roll-away small table for a laptop computer, etc.
-- insulated to 0 deg F.
-- easy to build
-- self-contained so that a campground is not required
-- “Home-Depot” parts throughout as much as possible

What I have in mind:

Rumi3_Conceptual.jpg (146.49 KiB) Viewed 3237 times

Because there is only a single bed, a 48” wide trailer will be adequate. The length need only be around 7 feet.

I’ll build on a trailer that is similar to a Red Trailer SJ-8530. Because it’s a bolt-together I can modify it to fit my purpose. It’s 4’ x 8’. The drawbar extends 41” beyond the frame so the front of the shell can overextend the frame by 11”, effectively moving the axle back that amount. The frame behind the axle will be shortened so that I end up with a shell that’s approximately 90” long by 52” wide (OD).

The underside of the trailer frame will be insulated with Styrofoam and covered with coroplast.

The shell will be a hybrid of plywood, wooden posts/beams/spars, foam, and canvas. It’ll be built from the inside out.

The interior walls will be installed first; thin plywood bolted directly to the sides of the trailer frame and trimmed to the shape of the trailer. Corner posts, door posts, roof beams, and edge trim are attached to the outside of the plywood (but fastened with screws from the inside) and follow the contour of the shell and fenders. Corner posts, door posts, and edge trim are built-up (glued) lengths of 1.5 x 3/4" clear lumber. The roof spars go into notches cut into the roof beams. The walls will be fitted with sheets of 1.5 inch Styrofoam that fit between the posts, and the gaps between the roof spars fitted with foam blocks. Finally, fabricate the door and hatch; then cover the exterior with canvas, glue, and paint. §

[Woodbutcher]

I think you have a solid plan. What width trailer are you making ? Have you considered a drop floor just inside the door. Allows you to set on the bed and put your feet in the well. Also helps with a porta pottie, it can use the same drop floor.

[tony.latham]

For what your needs are, I like the concept.

Make sure you build with lots of ventilation in mind. Dunno about your 120v electric blanket and a battery/inverter. (I don't know what the inverter and blanket would draw, but I'm curious.) We use a 12V electric blanket that's got a 45 minute timer to preheat our bed. Works great down here at 45º latitude and temps that dip to freezing.

Tony

[Vedette]

Welcome to the Forum
I agree with Tony. We have the same!
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi

[Henry Benner]

Thanks everyone for your encouragement and comments.

Some answers:
1.
The trailer will be 52.5 inches wide. And yes, a drop floor would be great.
I've looked at that possibility and tried rearranging some of the frame cross pieces...it gets
messy real quick. If I can locate my door right next to the fender it's possible to get a
dropped area in front of the bed that's 17" by 24" (Plus deep storage under the bed).
Stepping over the sill and into the dropped area might be
difficult with the fender so close.
The idea is still on the drawing board because if it works I could lower the trailer profile at least 3".

2.
I plan to build a screen door plus ventilate out the rear.

For power I'll have a 150 watt inverter plugged into a 12v outlet in the car and will run a
light power cord from it to the trailer. Power is only available when the car is running.
In the trailer I can:
1. Operate a small electric crock pot (draws 92 watts on high), or
2. Charge a portable 12v booster battery.
3. Run the electric blanket (I use a light dimmer for finer temperature control).
I usually run the blanket at about 2/3 of the lowest setting of 80 watts.

The booster battery also has a small inverter (100w). I'll use this for powering cabin and hatch lights, for
powering the electric blanket in the morning, operate my razor, charge my electronics, etc.

[rebapuck]

Are you considering any solar?

[noseoil]

Since it's still in the planning stages, take a look at a smallish battery for the trailer & a small solar panel. If you go with 12 volts for lighting, the newer LED stuff available now is great and draws such a small amount of current that it would give you unlimited lighting. Since you're building from scratch, you can put things where you need them & have room for a battery. The small size AGM wheelchair batteries are reasonably priced, have good power ratings & would give you enough power for a day or two for your needs. Add a solar panel & you're good to go.

You would still need to have an inverter for some of the stuff, but you could get a 12 volt electric blanket from Wally's World for about $25-$30, which draws only 4 amps like Tony mentioned. They use a cigarette lighter plug & work pretty well, especially in a small space. Make no small plans!

[ae6black]

I built a 4' wide td just to hunt out of and only use if for winter camping. Ventilation is a must. As far as standing up, I never felt the need. I built a minimalistic td with a large self inside to use my laptop on. The shelf functions as a desk and place to put my ceramic heater on. In a trailer this small finding a place where fire won't be an issue has to be one of your considerations. I also designed mine to have a crock pot inside. After using it in the winter, I've never cooked inside because of the moisture problem. i never needed a fantastic fan or anything like that since I only use this thing in cold weather for the most part. The coldest I camped out in was - 18 degrees F. I made the mistake of bringing a bigger ceramic heater because I knew it was going to be cold and had to much heat. I couldn't turn it down low enough. Typically, I don't even plug the heater in unless it gets below 50 F and have never slept in a sleeping bag. I just use a sheet, a blanket and a comforter and I am plenty toasty, and thats with having the vent open a couple of inches and the side window cracked at least an inch or two. In really cold weather, I've noticed that frost builds up not only on the windows, but also where all I've got is only wooden side walls. Where the foam insulation is, the walls stay frost free. I use my trailer much the same as you do, preferring to tow it rather than the RV I tow when the family is along.

Sounds like a great build you've got planned, can't wait to follow your progress!

Art

[dogscats]

We all love pictures. Great lines

[Henry Benner]

Some Answers

For a battery I'll use a portable unit (like those used to boost your car) with a small inverter.
Then everything can be 120 vac or 12 vdc. It should provide enough power for a couple of days. When I get to my destination I'll recharge it (or I can recharge it from the car while driving).

If I could get a thin, flexible solar panel that didn't need a controller I might consider it.

LED's are the way to go for sure. I'm about 95% converted to white LED's in the house and shop. Shop power consumption went from 900 watts down to 110 watts; no wonder the lights dimmed when I started my table saw.

ae6black:
Looks like you and I are following similar paths. I too love the minimalist path...I believe it's the best solution to the environment problem. Everybody just use less of everything; be efficient. "Live simply so that others can simply live."

For heat I'll use a small tin and hardware store alcohol. The flame is non-toxic and can be easily snuffed with a piece of tin; spills can be extinguished with water. Not as hot as other fuels which is fine for small spaces. (Have a few different size tins to control the heat.) Does create carbon monoxide and moisture. For the carbon monoxide I'll install a small vent (with sliding cover) low in the trailer and crack a window. CO is heavier than air.
Lots of DIY stuff on the internet regarding these heaters (they are used on sailboats).

---------------
PROGRESS

This past week I've been trying to CAD the whole thing. Trouble is, I'm getting bogged down with the details. I need some 'mechanical' feedback. So the other day I decided to build the 'first go-round' out of cheapo OSB and cardboard. That way I can build it, making tons of errors, and not get upset. After all, I've got all winter for this project.

So I bought 6 sheets of crappy OSB and the first thing I did was build a 4'x4' wheeled dolly (on 4" swivel castors). Then I assembled the trailer frame to just the basic framework plus springs (no axle, fenders, drawbar, wheels, etc.) and mounted it onto the dolly. Now I can roll the 4'x8' trailer frame around as needed (even rotate it in place) or park it outside when I need more shop space. My shop is too small (12'x14') to hold the assembled trailer and still provide some working space.

Just doing that inspired me on how to do the drop floor. It was easy. The drop floor is in front of the axle spring and about 1/2" higher than the axle. Size is 47x22x8.5" deep. According to the CAD program that means the trailer might be only 66.5" tall (from the road with 12" wheels). But I might have to be creative with the door because it could end up being too close to the fender. NO FEAR, OSB IS HERE!

Photos and drawings are coming.

[Henry Benner]

Here is the prototype trailer, mounted on a dolly.

Building an OSB version first sure makes it a lot easier. And having the posts bolted directed to the trailer frame makes construction fast. The plywood sides rest directly on the frame and are screwed to the posts.

Once I get the OSB version completed to where I am happy about the design and details, I'll replace each piece with the "expensive" material.

If all goes well it should be road-worthy by the end of October. There is a weekend event in southern Idaho in mid November. A day and a half drive from home through the Rockies on the I-15. Perfect to try out the unit on the highway and overnight. I'll aim for that event.

I've put the mattress on the bed frame so you can see it and also see the drop floor. I temporally closed in the trailer to make sure it's not claustrophobic. Feels good, sitting on the mattress I have about 3" of head room and an 82" bed shelf. Mattress will flip up to expose the toilet which sits at the back of the dropdown floor.

I'll leave the front squared-off and add a nose-cone or wind deflector some other time. Makes construction and insulating simple.

[tony.latham]

Here is the prototype trailer, mounted on a dolly.

Building an OSB version first sure makes it a lot easier. And having the posts bolted directed to the trailer frame makes construction fast. The plywood sides rest directly on the frame and are screwed to the posts.

Once I get the OSB version completed to where I am happy about the design and details, I'll replace each piece with the "expensive" material.

If all goes well I should be finished by the end of October. There is a weekend event in southern Idaho in mid November. A day and a half drive from home through the Rockies on the I-15. Perfect to try out the unit on the highway and overnight. I'll aim for that event.

I've put the mattress on the bed frame so you can see it and also see the drop floor. I temporally closed in the trailer to make sure it's not claustrophobic. Feels good, sitting on the mattress I have about 3" of head room and an 82" bed shelf. Mattress will flip up to expose the toilet which sits at the back of the dropdown floor.

[Henry Benner]

Here are some pictures of the progress so far.


The compartments have hinged top access panels. The compartments will be used for spare tire, tools, extra bedding, etc.


Drop floor and bed shelf supports are bolted to trailer frame.


Drop floor box is reinforced with steel bands.



The rear kitchen layout has yet to be designed. What I may do is leave it until I try the trailer on the road. Perhaps build some “cabinets” out of cardboard & duct tape and see what ideas float to the top.

By keeping track of the weight so far it looks like it will weigh around 483 pounds. And that’s using 3/8" OSB for the bed shelf and drop floor. Hopefully I’ll come up with some ideas to replace that heavy OSB with something lighter.

I got a good price on some 8” wheels with large tires (I like the “look” of the fat tires.) That 55 mph warning on the stock wheels that came with the trailer spooked me into replacing them. The 8” wheels dropped the trailer floor about 1 inch.

Since I won't have windows on the road-side of the trailer I can use the exterior of that side to accommodate a sliding wind screen that pulls out the back and converts the rear seating area into a sheltered alcove. Coroplast sounds like a good candidate for that.

I could have saved a lot of money by using OSB for the sides instead of thin plywood and then "swiss-cheesing" it to save weight. That is, build the trailer, then cut away the parts of the OSB walls that are not required for structural support. You end up with a wall that is full of large holes. Then install the Styrofoam over the exterior. Finally, cover the interior wall with canvas to hide the holes and canvas the exterior wall. This will easily reduce the weight of the walls by half or more.

Next are the roof spars and the rear wall & hatch.

But time will be at a premium because:
1. Toronto Blue Jays are in the post-season, and
2. NFL games take care of Sundays, Monday evening, Thursday evening

[Henry Benner]

Interior w/o mattress looking to the front.

Roof spars.JPG (9.93 KiB) Viewed 2588 times

Towards kitchen, mattress up. Green tape denotes where future shower trap-door will be located. Notice how bed panels are split into 3 sections.

Mattress Up.jpg (12.31 KiB) Viewed 2588 times

Now that the coldest part of the winter is over I can return to my shop and the TD project.

Before the winter break I was focused on designing and implementing various layouts. Even with such a tiny volume to work with and a long list of desired wants, there are a large number of possible layouts. Using OSB allows me to try out various layout combinations on the cheap. So far I’ve cut up 6 sheets and I’m probably not done yet. But I believe I’ve finally narrowed it down to one layout.

Some details:
* Side entrance is just in front of the curb side fender. Opening is 23” x 38”.

* There are two levels of dropped floor installed between existing trailer frame cross-members. The first is opposite the entrance and is dropped 8” below the frame. It’s dimensions are 21” wide by 8” deep by 42” long (ID) and it must be strong enough to support the user’s weight. This provides for an interior height of 54” and also makes it easy to enter the trailer--no step stool required--just a 10” step up and over the sill. The second dropped floor is installed above the axle and is dropped 4.5” below the frame and provides: 1. legroom and depth for sitting at the table; 2. the shower trap-door; 3. a deep storage compartment for the spare tire, jack, and such.

* The bed is a 5” thick foam mattress 28” by 76” that is folded up against the far wall during the day. Could be up to 80" long.

* The table is 28” wide by 18.5” deep and is hinged to fold up against the curb side wall: 1. while traveling; 2. when using the stand-up shower; 3. for extra move-around space.

* The water jug is installed inside at the front on a heavy frame. I initially wanted the jug at the back near the kitchen but with the weight of the cooler and other kitchen items, adding a 20 pound water jug at the rear altered the hitch weight adversely.

* For now, the kitchen area is a floor level shelf (48” x 24” deep) with a large rear access door.

* The trap-door shower will be a future project. I’ll rough-in some fittings for now.

* The rear lift-up hatch has been built and is 50.5” x 38” -- suitable shaded seating for one or two people. There is a 48” by 12.5” wide hinged table underneath the hatch mounted at ‘beer’ height.

* Yet to be built is the porta-potti vented cabinet which will be installed at the far end of the deep dropped floor.

* At this time all interior panels are 3/8” OSB painted white and edged with grey duct tape. Eventually all the OSB will be replaced with properly finished plywood.

* The adjustable wind deflector has been built.

* Cost so far: $1240 cdn (approx. $920 US) for everything including trailer and new wheels.

Working with canvas has been much easier than I anticipated. I stretch it over a strong wooden frame and fasten it with 9/16" staples, glue the staples in place, then paint the canvas with acrylic water-based exterior house paint. As the paint dries the canvas shrinks, eliminating wrinkles. Very nice. I put on 2 coats of paint, sand it with fine sandpaper, then another coat of paint.

I can see a few improvements already, things I could have done differently, (like an improved dropped floor) but I'm resisting the temptation to 'start over' because I know from experience that improvements will continue to appear and then 'starting over' could become endless. I need to finish this trailer and get it on the road. I''ll keep track of the ideas and improvements and pass them on to others, or perhaps there will be a Teardrop For One version 2. It shouldn't be too
difficult to make some of the changes on the existing trailer because I've used bolts everywhere. The shell is the only part that would be difficult to change. Even the canvas can be easily patched if necessary.

Would like to have this unit ready by the end of March for my annual trek to Moab, Utah but I'm not going to rush it. (I can also camp in my mini-van if necessary.)

This is a great project...loads of fun and challenges and a great excuse to buy more tools. My latest new tool: Dremmel Saw-Max; I've used it almost every day on this project. Excellent on thin plywood and such. Love it!

[Woodbutcher]

Well done, you have a fine looking trailer there. It should suit your needs perfectly. Keep making sawdust!