Foam Rimple "Greygoos"

[greygoos]

Started on a Rimple design.

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Progress is very slow due to other commitments. Will post as I go.Here is the trailer frame stripped and waiting for roll on bed liner.

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First coat of bedliner and A frame welded to tongue

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Here is deck upside down with 2 coats of the mix, 1 coat of 30 year deck stain and all the joints and edges fiberglassed. I ma using 3/4 plywood for the deck. Used butt joints as I cant handle a 5 X 10 sheet of ply.

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Questions. I have planned to use FRP for the sides and canvas for the top. I have both on hand. Any suggestion for gluing the top canvas to the FRP on the sides?

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Placement of trailer lights. Trailer lights were placed on a temporary basis so I could get my inspection and plates from NYS DMV. Everything went as planned until I left the inspection and was rear ended. Broke one light and the other driver apoligized with a 50 dollar bill. I thought it was fair and didn't realize I could just replace the lens. Walmart 2.50. When I build the cabin the new lights will be mounted at eye level as suggested by other members on this forum. Thank you

[greygoos]

Deck upside down with Crack Filler. I am told it is better suited for road debris than roofing tar and I already had some. I am not advocating its use over roofing tar, whatever works for you is great. So the deck has 1 coat of deck stain, 2 coats of the mix, all the seams and edges are fiberglassed, and has asphalt coating. Talk about belt and suspenders!

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Deck will be fastened to frame with Plow bolts. They have a flat head like an elevator bolt but are grade 8. Elevator bolts are grade 3. I am also using Stover nuts instead of nylon lock nuts. Stover nuts are also grade 8 and are manufactured for high vibration. Nylon is affected with weather and stress.

[KennethW]

I was about 2 blocks from the inspection, stopped at a light and was rear ended, lightly but enough to break a brand new trailer light. The guy who hit me said if I was smart I would mount the light higher and after I let him know in a not so nice way if he was smart he wouldnt have hit me and should know when to keep his mouth shut. I accepted 50.00 for a new lens and was on my way.

I think mounting light low on a Teardrop is asking to get rear-ended. He should not have hit you, But he was giving you good advise. There is a reason for the high center stop light on cars. I always mount my lights at eye level so they will be seen during a panic stop.
Just silly not too.

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Cut down a door and door screen from an old camper today to fit my build. I purchased the door and 2 exit windows during the planning stage for 50.00.

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My telescoping jack stands arrived today. Has anyone bolted them to the deck itself instead of the frame. My deck is 3/4.

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Polyiso question. Original plan was to use geofoam which I can get locally for about 1/3 the price of poly in the box stores. The problem is the lead time on a job so small. They will get to it when they can. Second option is to use flat roofing insulation which is covered in a layer of fiberglass material. I think the advantage to using that is twofold. It is less expensive than poly in the stores and the inside wall can just be painted. I haven't seen it used on a build here but maybe I missed it. I did try some experiments with some recycled material and I know I could get it to stick together without peeling the fiberglass material off first. Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated.

[KCStudly]

Do you mean polyiso or XPS (extruded polystyrene, Dow blue/Owens Corning pink/ Menard's green... such as Foamular 250)? There is a big difference with most builders preferring the XPS. EPS (expanded polystyrene, or white bead) is also suitable, and appears to be what the geo stuff is (?).

The yellow stuff that is usually backed by foil or paper chip board? Polyiso tends to be much more crumbly (hence the backing materials), and I seem to recall there being glue compatibility issues.

[greygoos]

Do you mean polyiso or XPS (extruded polystyrene, Dow blue/Owens Corning pink/ Menard's green... such as Foamular 250)? There is a big difference with most builders preferring the XPS. EPS (expanded polystyrene, or white bead) is also suitable, and appears to be what the geo stuff is (?).

The yellow stuff that is usually backed by foil or paper chip board? Polyiso tends to be much more crumbly (hence the backing materials), and I seem to recall there being glue compatibility issues.

Thank you for the clarification. I think I will go with the blue or pink stuff. I have read so many builds on here it is hard for me to remember. I write it down and forget where I put it. I have changed my building plans and posting so many times my head is spinning. Too many meds.

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In once again rethinking my build I would like to know if anyone has a formula for how wide you can make your floor. My frame is 41 inches wide and would like to know how wide I can go safely with that base. Thank you