Time to quit talking: my first build.

[CCTider]

Hey everyone. I've been wanting a tiny camper for years. But I'm a horrible carpenter, have minimal construction experience in these kind of aspects, and buying a teardrop isn't cheap. But I hate not camping in the summer because it's so damn hot outside.

I decided I needed a trailer. Mainly for chores and hauling a few things. The one that caught my eye had some very tall rails, which would perfect for hauling camp gear and canoes. But the more I looked at it, the more I realized it's perfect for camper. Here she is:




It's sturdy as hell, has 15" rims, and 4' rails, and I won't need to worry about any structural framing. Just screw the exterior walls/skin and roof directly to the angle rails with self drilling screws. Line the inside with Ridgid foam insulation board, put something pretty on top of it (I'm thinking 1/8"luan), and I'm damn near good to go. Seems like a perfect setup for a unconfident rookie trying to get his feet wet. Obviously, that's an oversimplification.

As said, I don't know what the hell I'm doing. But I'm eager to learn, and build something nice and sturdy. If I'm about to do something stupid, please don't be shy. I don't have any ego on this stuff. I just want to build something that'll last for a couple decades.

I'm in the Gulf Coast of Alabama. And from here to West Louisiana (probably even Houston) is the hottest, most miserably humid place I've ever lived, and I was raised in Florida. So my main goal on this build is to use as absolutely little wood as necessary. It's absolutely going to rot. So if I can avoid wood, I will.

So enough rambling, let's roll...


So you've seen the basic setup. It's going to be a straight up box. No angled front, like a square drop. Just 4 walls and a flat roof. I'm sure a good name will come along before she's built.

I need to weld a couple of pieces on to the frame, to complete the box, so to speak. I'm going to weld another angle in the back, over here:



That's the back. I'm obviously gonna remove the rear gate.

I'm torn between 2 options for the rear. I'd like to weld the frame so that I can use the top flange like a piece of flashing. I'm thinking about using a hurricane hinge to hold the door. Like this...



But with that angle in that direction, I'm not sure if I could use a hurricane hinge. If not, then I'd weld the angle so that it fits into the existing iron, like this...


(Very much not to scale)

I'm going to also install a roof rack at the front and back. I'll also weld a couple of pieces on the top, where the 2 middle vertical rails attach at the top . Like this...



That will also give me something to attach a roof vent/fan of I want. But that might be dumb, and with using 2x2s. I could weld 1½ angle iron on to it, and the 2x2s would be flush with a flat roof. But I've still got some time to figure it out.

That's enough rambling for now. Feel free to let me know what you think, or any advice you may have.

[JasenC]

There's a lot of good info around here and folks willing to help keep you from building it inside out.

[CCTider]

Seems like half the battle is knowing which questions to ask. But I've been browsing enough things way over my head, that they're slowly begging to make sense.

Figuring out the order of operations (so to speak) is another challenge. But I'm reading other people's builds, and have already figured out some solid ideas.

[CCTider]

I figured out another idea, that I think will help the durability and help lighten the load. By itself, my trailers is about 625-650 lbs. I'm also planning on driving it with smaller vehicles (if possible).

So I'm going to remove the 2x8 decking, and replace it with 1/2" marine wood in the bottom, 1" of polyisocyanurate foam (I think that's the heavy duty stuff), and then another 1/2" layer of plywood. I probably won't insulate the galley (though I'm not opposed if there's benefits to it).

If I do that, the deck weight will go from 204 lbs to about 100-105 lbs. So I'll get a more weather resistant deck and drop 100 lbs. That's worth spending a few bucks.

[JasenC]

The floors most people do in these is a torsion box or based off that technique, it's super strong and light, so to speak.
Build a grid in there out of 2x2's thinking about it structurally, fill the holes with the rigid foam board, glue it together with a polyurethan construction adhesive like Loctite PL and pump it full of screws.

[JasenC]

Get as much of your wiring/plumbing etc. done before you build the new floor, so you don't have to lay on the ground doing it later.

[CCTider]

The floors most people do in these is a torsion box or based off that technique, it's super strong and light, so to speak.
Build a grid in there out of 2x2's thinking about it structurally, fill the holes with the rigid foam board, glue it together with a polyurethan construction adhesive like Loctite PL and pump it full of screws.

You got me thinking about my floor. And now, I'm gonna build a torsion box. My trailer is actually 97.5", not 96. Here's how the 2x8s currently sit on the frame. I'm sure it's a common utility trailer design....



The boards slide into a slot on the front. Then at the back, the removable slot drops on top of the boards and is screwed down. There's nothing on the sides (they didn't need to, to secure the boards).

So to deal with this, and try to minimalist water issues, I'm hoping to build it using marine plywood at the bottom, and PT 1x2s along the edge of the box. I'll coat all of the wood in some kind of asphaltic waterproofing material (I'm sure y'all have recommendations for a good roll on waterproofing, and they are welcome).

So while those slots are technically 1.5", there's enough play for me to use 1/8" luan on top. So it'll be 1/2" coated marine plywood, 1" 25 psi Ridgid foam (unless y'all know how some stronger foam), then I'm thinking all put aluminum on the top.

I say aluminum. But really, I want something impermeable to moisture, that's thin. I'm gonna wrap the edges with peel and seal. Might wrap the whole damn thing in peel and seal. I'm pretty sure it's only .045".

Am I overly paranoid? Probably. But that's an aspect that I'm not gonna pinch pennies. I've done water intrusion inspections on residential and commercial buildings, and have seen what happens when people Love up the waterproofing, and how much work that is to repair.

Those angle slots are very sturdy, so I'm not going to grind them off. But I'm slightly considered about trapped moisture (which is why I'm gonna wrap the edges with peel and seal). But my interior walls will only rest on it in the front. I'll probably have to glue my front wall to it.

There may also be 1/8 difference between the top of my floor and the top of those slots. I don't think it'll make any difference, since it'll only be at the front of the trailer, and the wall will make up the difference. But if I gotta shim it, I'll shim it.

[JasenC]

Sounds like a solid plan. I'm not sure what folks are using to coat the bottom of the floor, Henry's roof coating, Gaco roof or deck coating, bed line? My concerns with those is stone damage creating an exposer. I'm using 1/2" pressure treated ply (PWF CDX ground contact) instead of marine ply. I'd like to use PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) to coat CDX but it's really expensive and I don't know if you can even buy it w/o a business license. That stuff is bomb proof, they coat roof top parking lots with it amongst other things.
Sealing that joint between the PT lumber and the ply is key, make sure you get some squeeze out of the PL construction adhesive to insure a good seal. You could even lay up a little glass and resin right there.
I'd bump up to 1/4 if not 1/2" ply for the top skin, you can route a rabbit on the edges to get under the the metal, crawling around on your knees in there will telegraph through the luan to the foam leaving compression dents and may cause debonding issues down the road, especially at the entry.
Just FYI, the peel and stick flashings like Vycor or Grace Ultra ice and water aren't UV stable, they are only good for 3-4 months sun exposure before they start to break down.

[CCTider]

I'm using 1/2" pressure treated ply (PWF CDX ground contact) instead of marine ply.

I thought about using PT ground contact plywood. I guess I assumed that marine plywood would be the best, since they make boats out of it. I might have too look into that.

I'm not sure what folks are using to coat the bottom of the floor, Henry's roof coating, Gaco roof or deck coating, bed line? My concerns with those is stone damage creating an exposer.

Good point. I might need visit the off-road build board, and see what they're doing to protect the bottom. I definitely want to take it off grid. Honestly, I hate campgrounds. I hate driving to the middle of nowhere, just to have to be quiet at 10 pm. I also have 15" tires on my trailer. So it'll be sturdy as hell. Especially if I use something for the skin, like diamond thread aluminum.

I'd like to use PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) to coat CDX but it's really expensive and I don't know if you can even buy it w/o a business license.

Do you know any brand names? I've got a cousin who is a roofer, so I may be able to get ahold of some. How expensive are we talking?

I'd bump up to 1/4 if not 1/2" ply for the top skin, you can route a rabbit on the edges to get under the the metal,

And this is why I'm here. So simple, yet should've been obvious. That's exactly what I'm going to do. It'll be easy, dude I'll only have to rout the short sides of the floor. I was halfway thinking something like aluminum. But I like this better. Thanks!

[JasenC]

The company I've used, there's only 2 in the Puget sound that do it, use Siplast, this is a 2 part system, it has a granular catalyst. When it's used for a flashing material they wet set a synthetic fabric and add more product over the top, for walking decks they spread in a granular substance, might be a cleaned sand, don't recall, for anti slip.

If you ever have to remove it I think the best way is to use a medium sized thermonuclear explosive device

[tony.latham]

I'm not sure what folks are using to coat the bottom of the floor, Henry's roof coating, Gaco roof or deck coating, bed line? My concerns with those is stone damage creating an exposer.

I use Raka epoxy to seal the underside of the floor. It soaks into the wood a bit and plasticizes the wood. Some folks are still using tar-based products just like what was used in the 1930's. Those pioneer builders had to use what they did because that's what was available.

I've never gotten any road rash underneath and we're on the gravel a lot.



Tony

[JasenC]

I'm not sure what folks are using to coat the bottom of the floor, Henry's roof coating, Gaco roof or deck coating, bed line? My concerns with those is stone damage creating an exposer.

I use Raka epoxy to seal the underside of the floor. It soaks into the wood a bit and plasticizes the wood. Some folks are still using tar-based products just like what was used in the 1930's. Those pioneer builders had to use what they did because that's what was available.

I've never gotten any road rash underneath and we're on the gravel a lot.



Tony

Just the epoxy resin or glass as well?

[tony.latham]

Just the epoxy resin or glass as well?

Just the epoxy. It does a fine job and will not crack because the wood fibers reinforce the epoxy.

Tony

[CCTider]

I'm not sure what folks are using to coat the bottom of the floor, Henry's roof coating, Gaco roof or deck coating, bed line? My concerns with those is stone damage creating an exposer.

I use Raka epoxy to seal the underside of the floor. It soaks into the wood a bit and plasticizes the wood. Some folks are still using tar-based products just like what was used in the 1930's. Those pioneer builders had to use what they did because that's what was available.

I've never gotten any road rash underneath and we're on the gravel a lot.



Tony

Nice. That looks like a great product. Their website did a decent job giving a simple breakdown if they're different resins and hardeners. I think the Raka 127 sounds like what I'm looking for:

Raka 127 Low Viscosity resin

The Raka 127 low viscosity resin is our standard resin. With a low viscosity of 600 centipoise it makes an excellent choice for wetting out fiberglass and penetrating wood. We formulate our epoxies to have very little smell.

Since it'll be on the floor, I'm not really worried about blushing. So there's a couple of hardener options:

Raka 606 Slow hardener

The slow hardener has a slow pot life of about 20 minutes(3oz in cup at 77F). You will have an hour or 2 to work with the epoxy once you put it onto your project. At 77F this hardener reaches a hard finish that can be sanded in about 18-24 hours.

Raka 260 Tropical hardener

The tropical hardener has an extremely slow pot life of about 45-60 minutes(3oz in cup at 77F). You will have several hours to work with the epoxy once you put it onto your project. At 77F this hardener reaches a hard finish that can be sanded in about 24-30 hours. This hardener does have a tendency to blush after curing and will require being sanded or washed with warm soapy water before apply the next coat.

Or if you're feeling fancy. But really, for anyone reading this who is going to have exposed wood on the sides, and want to maintain the aesthetics:

Raka 350 Non-Blushing hardener

We feel this hardener is second to none in its ability to resist blushing, white clouding and water spotting. Blushing is the greasy surface film on cured epoxy caused by humidity in the air as the epoxy cures.

We tried many non blushing type hardeners before we settled on the 350 formulation. Regardless of the most extreme humidity or cool dropping temperatures our tests show this hardener gives an excellent high gloss and clear, blemish free coatings. This formulation also has the best resistance to cratering and trapped air bubbles in the cured epoxy coating.

Raka 350 like our other hardeners has good strength properties, excellent water resistance and the best general chemical resistance of our hardeners. Cured epoxy using the 350 formulation will also give better flexibility to resist impact and wood deformation. The 350 is a 2 to 1 mix by volume. This system has a good pot life approximately 35 minutes at room temperature. The 350 is more expensive than our other hardeners but when combined with our economical Resins the average price per gallon is the best competitive value around.

They have a lot of good info on that site. Here's their epoxy manual, that goes into very good detail on the material and application.

https://www.raka.com/epoxy-manual/

I also love their slogan...

Raka Epoxy, What floats your boat

Thanks for the tip.

How much epoxy did you end up using?