Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi, first post: rebuilt a mostly-rotten 1959 Cat-O-Lac DeVille canned ham trailer, similar to this:

http://www.tincantourists.com/classifie ... 3974&cat=3

Somehow it ended up too wide and the roof panels won't fit back on. The roof skin is supposed to overlap the sides by about 3/4" then be secured with J-rail and hex-head screws. The roof panels can overlap a tiny bit on each side with a lot of bending, cursing and general frustration, but the metal is getting pretty damaged in the process and I'm worrying about future leaks, especially here in the rainy Pacific Northwest.

So what are my options? Some other kind of moulding? New aluminum fabricated to work? Using what I've got and hoping for no leaks?

If you know or could recommend any sheet metal fabricators in WA, especially NW WA, it would be greatly appreciated!

So what are my options? Some other kind of moulding? New aluminum fabricated to work? Using what I've got and hoping for no leaks?

the fix is easier than you think. if you do not have enough metal to fold over the side . all you need is some angle aluminum which can be bought on the net. and some rv tape . secure the top metal down with small nails like the factory did, lay the one inch tape over the seam and lay the aluminum trim down and secure it with stainless screws.

picture of my teardrop

note: there is no lip on the top piece


wish i had a better picture of the trim piece



then if you want a awning rail all you have to do is install it over the trim piece



my 57 cardinal restoration



hope this helps

Mike

Thanks, I was hoping I might be able to get away with that. But unlike your teardrop, my canned ham skin has a raised brake patter (2" Mesa D-1 here: http://www.interstatervmetalandsupply.c ... u_dia2.htm )

Will I still be able to use your suggestion? I'd still want to make use of the J-rail, so would I run the L-shaped moulding under or over the J-rail on the sides? Thanks!

Thanks, I was hoping I might be able to get away with that. But unlike your teardrop, my canned ham skin has a raised brake patter (2" Mesa D-1 here: http://www.interstatervmetalandsupply.c ... u_dia2.htm )

Will I still be able to use your suggestion? I'd still want to make use of the J-rail, so would I run the L-shaped moulding under or over the J-rail on the sides? Thanks!

here is a link to lilbears he sells all types of moldings he should have what you need, the L shape moding will go on first then the awning rail. remember the tape is like plumbers tape except it is made for seams on RVs and will fill in any voids i have used 2 layers when needed

Mike

LINK

http://lilbear.teardrops.net/parts.html#hinge

Hi Bellinghamster,

I don't know if you've re-skinned the sides yet or not, but I had a thought
that might be useful for you.

Once you get the roof metal edge bent to it's new shape/position, would it be
possible to use some snow and ice shield underneath it and the top few
inches of the side wall metal? - You know, apply it so that it overlaps both
the sidewall and roof at their juncture. It's really sticky and is supposed
to seal any nail/screw penetrations. It might be the extra level of leak
prevention/backup you need. It's one of forum member bobhenry's
favorite materials and he has used it a lot on his builds. If he doesn't
run across this, maybe you could PM him if you think you could use the
S&I shield and get his opinion on it.

Using the S&I shield under the metal and a wider edge trim and the
butyl tape may be your fix.

Cheers,
norm/mezmo